Cleaning planes


haysflooring

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How do you go about getting your old planes shined up like new again? Getting rid of the rust is not a problem. But getting the tarnish off is for me. I picked up a old no. 5 bedrock at a yard sale that needs work. I figured if I was going to paint it I might as well go all out and make it look new. I have a set of baileys I have tuned and restored that I left the patina on but this one I to look new.

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This really depends on the finish used. There are lots of enzymatic heat soaks, take fabric softener for one, that over a hot plate will soften hardened paints on cast surfaces. This is my go to process for stripping old cast hinges. Some old planes have tar in the finish and lacquer thinner might remove it. If you are trying to refresh without removing a finish, you can try mineral spirits or a baking soda rub and either should be mild enough on old oil finishes.

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I use a surface plate (you could use some glass plate etc, just needs to be flat). Disassemble the plane then use 1000 or finer grit wet/dry sand paper, glued to the surface plate. Hold the plane square and sand in straight motions along the length of the plane. This will leave a nice satin finish. The same process can be used to true the sole of the plane, just start with a rougher grit and work through the grits. Be sure to clamp the iron into the body under working tension when truing the sole, you might get some flex when you clamp the iron in and you need to account for that.

 

The above post happened just as I was typing and brought up something I had not thought about, to remove old finish, I use a glass bead blaster or you could use a hand blaster with baking soda as a media, it is gentle to the metal and removes the old finish easily.

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Hello Joe,

 

That slide show is great. Beware though, this was news to me

 

MPORTANT HEALTH SAFETY NOTE: You should never, never, never ever use stainless steel for your anodes. Stainless steel contains chromium and it will cause hexavalent chromium (chromium VI) to precipitate out into your electrolyte. Hexavalent chromium is a nasty carcinogen and is responsible for several Superfund cleanup sites. Take a look at http://www.hexavalentchromiumdangers.com/ to see for yourself how bad this stuff is.

 

My process was not as thorough as the slide show. My block plane ended up like this. I used paint stripper and if it was really rusty I would of tried some of the hammerite rust remover. I'm working on my #4 now. It wont look like the slide show but it should be sweeter than before. I'm taking info on the tune up from here. Go to "Tune Up" on the right hand menu, scroll to the bottom and you have a step by step guide from a leading expert cabinet maker. Combine this to the nice paint job and you will have a sweet plane :ph34r:  

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I always wondered why they bothered to make a Bedrock no.5, but any Bedrock is a great yard sale find. 

 

I use a surface plate too, but never glue the paper to it.  I just put a little water on the surface, and lay wet-or-dry on top of that, and it stays in place just fine. 

 

After the rust preventers test in FWW a while back, I bought some CRC 3.36 and it does indeed do a marvelous job of keeping rust off of bare metal.  I also started storing all my planes, and everything else that will fit, in Stanley/Bostitch waterproof toolboxes with moisture absorbers.  Planes I did several years ago still look like they did when I finished them.  Before going back in the box after use, I give them a once over with a rag and a dash of 3.36, and  wrap it in a cloth.  I know most people want to see them sitting out, but I've had too many things rust over the years, so I now get pleasure out of pulling one out that's ready to go, and comfort in knowing it will be like that the next time I want to use it.

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Both of those are Stanley Bailey no.5's. They are a co workers. He brought a bunch in from his grandpas shop. I cleaned those up for him because he wants to learn how to use them. I did buy a very nice Stanley Bedrock No.5 that I am currently cleaning up. I am salivating to use it. He also had a really nice 5 1/4 but wouldn't part with it.

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After the rust preventers test in FWW a while back, I bought some CRC 3.36 and it does indeed do a marvelous job of keeping rust off of bare metal. I also started storing all my planes, and everything else that will fit, in Stanley/Bostitch waterproof toolboxes with moisture absorbers. Planes I did several years ago still look like they did when I finished them. Before going back in the box after use, I give them a once over with a rag and a dash of 3.36, and wrap it in a cloth. I know most people want to see them sitting out, but I've had too many things rust over the years, so I now get pleasure out of pulling one out that's ready to go, and comfort in knowing it will be like that the next time I want to use it.

This is a good idea for storage. I think I might start doing something similar. They are kinda fun to clean up and restore, but once you get them that way you don't want to do it again.

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The electrolysis puts me off, I'm sure i will zap myself. I have an old stanley smoother I'm going to give this treatment too as soon as i get my grinder up and running.

I have the same feelings, and I don't have a battery charger. I found that and a little patience worked fine.

 

John

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Yes water will hold the paper just fine but as my plate is cast iron, water does not play so well with it so a little 3M light tack spray glue and it is easy on and easy off for the sand paper.

 

I have used electric rust removal, about a hand full of soda ash from the pool supply house into a 15 gal tub with re-bar bent for the anodes. A few days and it is spotless, well it is if it was a light rust, heavy rust if not removed, takes several treatments but if light, it as if it never was rusted.

 

It really is a very safe process but then if you don't have the battery charger, .... that is a big piece of the puzzle.

 

Another thing to do is to improve the iron, I just put in a new heavy IBC setup into my #4 and it was worth the money, it makes it a very nice tool. You do have to file the mouth a little so stock irons don't fit so well after this but then the old iron makes a good scraper so you get two tools out of the "upgrade" :D

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This is a good idea for storage. I think I might start doing something similar. They are kinda fun to clean up and restore, but once you get them that way you don't want to do it again.

 Here's what they look like.   http://www.walmart.com/ip/Stanley-FatMax-28-Toolbox/14146171

 

 Walmart here sells the 20" ones for 20 bucks.  Lowes sells the 28" for 30 bucks, and the 20" for 20.  Home Depot sells the 28" for 35.  The ones in Lowes have the Bostitch name on them with the Bostitch orange seals.  The ones with Stanley name have yellow seals.  Otherwise they are the same box.

 

It took me a couple of years to accumulate the 96 that I have, all labeled and in cubbies, since none of the stores ever had but a few in stock at the time.  It took me that long to get everything organized anyway.  I just wish they made some longer ones that handsaws fit into.   I can get my hands on any of the thousands of tools I have in short order.  For example, my handplane boxes say Plane 1, Plane 2, Smooth, 5-6-7, 8, 55, molding, H&R.  The 28" boxes have plenty of room for a 5, two 6s, and a 7. The little brand label on the front slips out and leaves a nice spot for a label.  We also put labels on each end so it doesn't matter which way one gets put back in its cubby.

 

I tested one to start with using a power washer, and they don't leak.

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