DALSAW Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 I was trying to rip a couple of boards today, and my table saw "butchered" the cut. I'm using a Freud 10" 40 Hi-ATB blade Its only a month old and the saw was cutting fine on Wednesday. I attaching some photos of the boards. Any body got an idea as to what has happened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Aaron, considering how thin those cuts are, my guess is that your splitter isn't quite lined up to be flush with the inside of the blade (closest to the fence) and internal stresses are making the board flex against the blade. It might be happening at the front of the blade, too. In which case, you should try a feather board to hold the work tighter against the fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DALSAW Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Aaron, considering how thin those cuts are, my guess is that your splitter isn't quite lined up to be flush with the inside of the blade (closest to the fence) and internal stresses are making the board flex against the blade. It might be happening at the front of the blade, too. In which case, you should try a feather board to hold the work tighter against the fence. I was using a feather board at the time I made the cut. So I guess that I need to check the splitter. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DALSAW Posted October 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 I was using a feather board at the time I made the cut. So I guess that I need to check the splitter. Thanks I checked the splitter its lined up with the blade, but it has a fair amount of flex in the metal that the splitter is made of. The flex isn't in the attachment point. So I don't have a clue as how to fix it. Or if that would even affect it during a rip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawrence Brown Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 I'm assuming that in the pictures, the top was the direction of feed? If that's true, then it looks like it's the back of the blade digging in. have you checked your fence to make sure it isn't "toed in", as in, the back is closer to the blade than the front. It's also hard to tell the scale from the pictures, but that looks like a pretty big jump between dig-ins. That suggests to me what I'll call a low-frequency oscillation, meaning that it's more like a wobble where the piece is bouncing in and out of the back of the blade. That would mean it's the wood flexing rather than what I previously described with the toe-in. I'd check that fence next to see if it got bumped or something. also, is the flat side of the wood (the side you didn't cut) absolutely flat, or is there some kind of twist or warp to it that maybe happened after you cut it? If the wood flexed, that might have sent it into the blade. All stuff I think you already know. Just going down the list of causes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DALSAW Posted October 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 I'm assuming that in the pictures, the top was the direction of feed? If that's true, then it looks like it's the back of the blade digging in. have you checked your fence to make sure it isn't "toed in", as in, the back is closer to the blade than the front. It's also hard to tell the scale from the pictures, but that looks like a pretty big jump between dig-ins. That suggests to me what I'll call a low-frequency oscillation, meaning that it's more like a wobble where the piece is bouncing in and out of the back of the blade. That would mean it's the wood flexing rather than what I previously described with the toe-in. I'd check that fence next to see if it got bumped or something. also, is the flat side of the wood (the side you didn't cut) absolutely flat, or is there some kind of twist or warp to it that maybe happened after you cut it? If the wood flexed, that might have sent it into the blade. All stuff I think you already know. Just going down the list of causes... I though that the fence may have toed in after I looked at the cut, so I checked it with my tape it was within a 32th of an inch of difference from the front to the back. The side that I didn't cut was a "factory edge", I have to buy all of my materials presurfaced because I don't have the space for a jointer of planer. I will check the board tomarrow to see if it has a twist or warp, that I didn't notice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 Aaron, just be sure it out a 1/32 from the blade at the back of the fence. Being in can cause your problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onboard Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 I was trying to rip a couple of boards today, and my table saw "butchered" the cut. I'm using a Freud 10" 40 Hi-ATB blade Its only a month old and the saw was cutting fine on Wednesday. I attaching some photos of the boards. Any body got an idea as to what has happened? Is there an outside chance that the arbor nut may have loosened a bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DALSAW Posted October 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 Aaron, just be sure it out a 1/32 from the blade at the back of the fence. Being in can cause your problem. It was out a 1/32" at the back. I didn't think that that would mess it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DALSAW Posted October 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 Is there an outside chance that the arbor nut may have loosened a bit? I chaecked that too, and it wasn't loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
petersb Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 Check the trunnion bolts to be sure that they are tight. I would just start with going through the alingment of the whole saw and check everything for square and tight. Look at the blade too. See of their are any teeth missing/damaged. check the drive pulleys too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawrence Brown Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 It was out a 1/32" at the back. I didn't think that that would mess it up. By that do you mean that there is a 1/32 difference between the front and back ends of the fence or the front and back of the blade? The first is almost insignificant, the second is huge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 By that do you mean that there is a 1/32 difference between the front and back ends of the fence or the front and back of the blade? The first is almost insignificant, the second is huge. Thanks Mech. Aaron, that's what I was getting at. If the back of the fence is away from the blade 1/32 more than the front, not a big deal. Some even purposely set their fences up that way to avoid kick back and what's happening to your stock. But, if it's 1/32 inch closer, it will do what is showing on your cuts and can cause kick back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DALSAW Posted October 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 By that do you mean that there is a 1/32 difference between the front and back ends of the fence or the front and back of the blade? The first is almost insignificant, the second is huge. Yea there is 1/32 difference from the front and back ends of the fence, the back is out farther than the front by a 1/32". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DALSAW Posted October 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 Check the trunnion bolts to be sure that they are tight. I would just start with going through the alingment of the whole saw and check everything for square and tight. Look at the blade too. See of their are any teeth missing/damaged. check the drive pulleys too. I'll check all of that stuff too. I guess that I'm going to have to watch Marc'c video on tuning up a table saw again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsabados Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Have you tried a different blade after you noticed the "butchering"? Change the blade, if you still get the mess, it wouldn't seem like the blade is the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DALSAW Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 I fixed it a couple of days ago, the trunnion bolts had loosened causing the blade to pinch the wood between it and the fence whe the saw was powered up. I turned it on and could see the blade move. Thanks for all of the help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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