T-astragal Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Johnson's paste wax goes a long way. Wax all your jigs and tool surfaces that need to slide. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasahan Posted May 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 THANK YOU!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 I have a number of special sub-bases I've made out of Corian that are over 20 years old, but the best stuff I've found is synthetic bowling alley flooring. It's about 3/8" thick, and solid phenolic. Make the base any size or shape you want. Use the stock sub-base as a template for drilling the holes to screw it to the router base, and cut the bit hole however you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuilderBill Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Ok, so had my first disappointment with the router. The subbase that came with it had an opening that was too small for the bit I needed to use (for doing the mortises in the commercial tabletops; the whole reason I got the router). And of course, no one carries the right one. So back to Amazon I go. I tried plunging it down first and then inserting the bit, but I couldn't access the collet. I tried removing the subbase, but the router wouldn't slide across the wood. It's so annoying because I did a lot of research and bugged all you guys, but neglected to find out that detail. But also frustrating that a $350 router didn't include any accessories. So yes, I should have paid more attention to the details. But I do wish some stores would carry some of this stuff. Don't know if it's a Porter-Cable thing, or what. Mount the bit with the router raised and then plunge it through the sub-base. Instant zero-clearance base! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasahan Posted May 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Well, tried to make a base today. Three failed tries. Was starting on my fourth when I had to leave. Couldn't get the screw holes to line up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuilderBill Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Well, tried to make a base today. Three failed tries. Was starting on my fourth when I had to leave. Couldn't get the screw holes to line up. Pat Warner makes round and offset sub-bases for most routers including the 7539, highest quality available, decent prices and he's a great guy to deal with. Plus you can see through his bases. Email him, he's good to get back. I have a bunch of his products, they are all 10+ quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 If you are tempted to use Bills method cut the hole however crudely and only plunge to clean it up. Clamp the router down and go slowly! Without these steps everything can go wrong very fast , and it will go wrong very fast ! Trust me it's been over 25 years ago and the lesson is still fresh in my mind. The base and the bit were a total loss. New collet and the router still gets occasional use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuilderBill Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 If you are tempted to use Bills method cut the hole however crudely and only plunge to clean it up. Clamp the router down and go slowly! Without these steps everything can go wrong very fast , and it will go wrong very fast ! Trust me it's been over 25 years ago and the lesson is still fresh in my mind. The base and the bit were a total loss. New collet and the router still gets occasional use. Oooh, that would definitely suck! Guess I've been lucky. Only done it a time or two, not like plunging a 2-1/2" bit through a PC bushing hole, just a minor enlargement like a 1/2" roundover through a PC guide-bushing base. Yeah, if you're going for a big hole rough it out first and be careful. Shouldda thought... Best, Bill P.S, Hey, Steve, how's it hanging? Just picked up a Domino, would like to drop by and check out your jigs. Have beer, will travel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 Well, tried to make a base today. Three failed tries. Was starting on my fourth when I had to leave. Couldn't get the screw holes to line up. Be sure to clamp the original base to your stock, and use an awl to punch-mark the screw hole centers. You'll have trouble every time if you are doing it with a pencil. One other thing I highly recommend; if the router base ( not the sub plate ) allows room, drill out the factory screw holes and tap them to 1/4 x 20 tpi. Makes it vastly easier to obtain replacement screws, and they will be stronger to boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 If you clamp the original base plate to the new blank and use a bit that fits the holes exactly in a drill press(unplugged !) and turn the bit while applying downward pressure it will mark the locations very exactly. If you are doing it with a hand drill it will be more difficult. You can drill the holes slightly oversized and then countersink them . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 I don't think I have a single extra sub base that all three holes worked out exactly perfectly to start with, but with a little fiddling they still work and don't slip once you have the machine screws torqued down in the countersunk holes. You will need some longer screws probably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 If I'm remembering correctly, I bought the 7539 in 1991. It has done a LOT of work, worn out I forget how many collets, and still mills stuff perfectly used in one of my router tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted May 7, 2014 Report Share Posted May 7, 2014 The bit will just start slipping, and won't stay perfectly in place. They last a long time, but we did wear some collets out milling 3/4" inch off the top of a couple of hundred feet of 200 year old (in place) Heart Pine flooring. You can see the process on the "woodwork" page on my website. The flooring was 1-1/2" thick, windows were out of the house for 50 years, but only some boards suffered in the top half. It was a fairly long process. I kept bits coming and going to and from Whiteside being sharpened. I don't remember how long it took now, but I think maybe a couple of weeks. We wore out a couple of collets. The 7539 was 20 years old at that point. After that job, it served perfectly in a router top in a big window sash job. I've never been in that router. It still runs like a sewing machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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