First hand plane

[Renzo]

I'm adding a hand plane to my christmas list. (as this will be my first plane i think going for a block plane is the best idea)

I'll be going with Lee Valley/Veritas.

Just a few questions:

1. Is there any difference in functionality between their standard block plane and the premium one? The premium certainly looks cooler and i'm happy that Santa will get whichever I want, but Is there any benefit in getting the premium?

2. Should I consider the low angle block plane?

I don't have a specific project in mind for these, but want to start getting into hand tools to refine my power tool use and figure a Veritas plane is a good place to start.

[mdbuilder]

I'd get the low angle + and extra 38 degree bevel blade. The low angle and standard 25 degree blade are a little better for end grain, the 38 degree blade will be great for highly figured woods or where you've got a spot or two of reversing grain peeking up in the middle of an edge you are trying to plane smooth.

The more expensive premium plane is pretty corrosion proof, other than that it is looks and feel not really performance I think.

[jlloydparks]

Santa can't go wrong with either one. I would also recommend the low angle because it will give you more options. You can always changes your bevel angle on the iron, but you can't change the bed angle of the plane. If I was an exceptionally good boy I would hope Santa would spring for the premium corrosion resistant model, but I would be happy with all options.

[Saddlestrum]

As a previous owner of the Veritas Low Angle block plane...and more recently, after a high recommendation from a Lee Valley employee, I'm now an owner of their new Veritas Skew Low Angle block plane...I would recommend the skew model. I allows you to work up close on rabbets, has awesome balance, and the design is taken from the new Premium models. It includes the side fence which gives you depth-of-cut adjustability, plus you can attach angle profiles to the fence for unique angles.

So...in many ways it does the work of a shoulder plane. It also does the work of the edge planes with the fence attached to joint an edge. All in all, an extremely versatile plane.

Further, Lie-Nielsen makes a similar model, the 140. You can view the video explanation of it's many abilities on the link and know the Lee Valley offers the same flexibility with their Veritas model:

http://www.youtube.com/user/LieNielsen#p/u/8/rwMjNb92Umo

Let us know which one you go with.

[mdbuilder]

The skew block is very nice and very versatile. It does however make sharpening more complicated, I'd skip that complication for the first plane buy.

[Renzo]

Thanks for all the info.

I've added the low angle block plane to my santa list

[RenaissanceWW]

OK I'm going to be the difficult one and say are you sure a block plane is where you want to start? I use a #4 smoother or a small wooden coffin smoother for just about every small plane task these days. Now the wooden one I wouldn't recommend as they are a bit more difficult to learn to work with. I'm think that since you are wanting to augment your power tool work with hand tools then the place where this helps the most is in joinery. That being said a joinery plane would be much more helpful. I agree that the skew block is excellent for this but the blade is more difficult to sharpen. I don't remember is LV makes a rabbet block plane like Lie Nielsen does but if you go the block route then get the rabbeting version with the blade the extends all the way to the shoulder so you can trim tenon shoulder and rabbets. Or a shoulder plane will work for this too, but I think the rabbeting block will be more versatile.

Honestly, though sharpening a skewed blade is not that difficult because the long edge provides a very stable platform to balance on a stone. The addition of the fence and such makes it a great plane.

I understand the physics of low angle and end grain but I am not completely convinced after hours of planing end grain with a standard bedded plane. It still cuts beautifully and the secret is a sharp iron not so much bed angle. Just my own experience however.

[Renzo]

OK I'm going to be the difficult one and say are you sure a block plane is where you want to start? I use a #4 smoother or a small wooden coffin smoother for just about every small plane task these days. Now the wooden one I wouldn't recommend as they are a bit more difficult to learn to work with. I'm think that since you are wanting to augment your power tool work with hand tools then the place where this helps the most is in joinery. That being said a joinery plane would be much more helpful. I agree that the skew block is excellent for this but the blade is more difficult to sharpen. I don't remember is LV makes a rabbet block plane like Lie Nielsen does but if you go the block route then get the rabbeting version with the blade the extends all the way to the shoulder so you can trim tenon shoulder and rabbets. Or a shoulder plane will work for this too, but I think the rabbeting block will be more versatile.

Honestly, though sharpening a skewed blade is not that difficult because the long edge provides a very stable platform to balance on a stone. The addition of the fence and such makes it a great plane.

I understand the physics of low angle and end grain but I am not completely convinced after hours of planing end grain with a standard bedded plane. It still cuts beautifully and the secret is a sharp iron not so much bed angle. Just my own experience however.

Thanks Shannon.

My next project is going to have lseveral of dado's, so maybe I should consider a router plane or rabbet plane. Too many decisions really.

[mdbuilder]

LOL:)

Know what my first handplane was? Veritas medium shoulder plane, I had 6 arts and crafts chairs to build with about a million mortise and tenon shoulders.

[Rutabagared]

Renzo,

I've used the Veritas low angle for several years and am pleased with it. Someone mentioned corrosion earlier and that's something to consider. I've noticed this plane seems to be prone to rust. I've had a couple of incidents where I've opened the drawer to find small spots of rust all over the body (not the blade). Two Stanley planes share the same drawer and I've never had this issue with them. So I'm now diligent about keeping it waxed and it seems to be ok. But I still get the occasional rust spot.

I've been lusting after the Lie-Nielsen No. 4 with the bronze body.

Joe

[jmaichel]

Renzo,

I am a fairly new woodworker and my first plane was an LN block plane and I can tell you that it was not a good first plane purchase. I had to try and find ways to incorporate into my work. I really wish I had went for a no 4 or jack plane instead. If you are going to buy a block plane I think LV and LN both make a rabbet block plane which might serve you well when working on small dado's.

Cheers,

James

[harmsdph]

I picked up the Lee Valley low angle block plane as my first plane and love it, I constantly find my self reaching for it to flush up joints where I might have previously had to use sand paper. My next hand planes will be a large shoulder plane and a #4. I am basing these three planes of a woodsmith podcast I saw a while back that made sense to me:

Podcast #40: Three Hand Planes Every Shop Should Have