SYP for shop projects?

[Dan S]

I want to make a hanging tool chest for my planes and chisels at some point this winter. Funds are running low and I don't want to use plywood, so after looking at the numbers, BORG SYP is the cheapest alternative. Anyone see any issues with SYP, other than it's not as pretty as some of the other alternatives?

[Dyami Plotke]

As SYP is not available locally for me, I've never been able to use it. That said, based on Chris Schwarz's raving about it, I think it'll probably work just fine. If it can be his bench, I'm sure it can be your cabinet.

[dryhter]

I want to make a hanging tool chest for my planes and chisels at some point this winter. Funds are running low and I don't want to use plywood, so after looking at the numbers, BORG SYP is the cheapest alternative. Anyone see any issues with SYP, other than it's not as pretty as some of the other alternatives?

My experience with Southern yellow pine is that it contains a lot of pitch, is very strong but tends to move a bit and warped and twisted boards are all to common, it wears well and takes on a nice patina if left unfinished, splits and cracks and any splinters will fester, but I still like it.

[jlloydparks]

I love the stuff. When you go to the BORG get the big stuff 2x12 and 12' to 16' footers. This will give you the cleanest and best lumber. Go through the stacks and pick out the best stuff, I can usually find four or five boards I would take after about 30 minutes of digging. I always let it acclimate in the shop for about a month before I break it down. After that I have never had a problem with movement or cracking.

I will mention that it is a bit of a pain to get clean good looking dovetails, but you can do it with practice.

I have two large chests that I am planning on making from the stuff and the lumber is well acclimated in the shop and hasn't moved or cracked at all.

[Dan S]

I used it to make my utility benches, but the are encased (yea that's the word), in polyurethane to protect them from motor oil spills and what not. My big concern was if it had any negative long term effect on the planes, for example if they sat unused for a month or two. I would hate to take a plane out, and find the sole all messed up, because the raw wood leached out something unfriendly.

I love the stuff. When you go to the BORG get the big stuff 2x12 and 12' to 16' footers. This will give you the cleanest and best lumber. Go through the stacks and pick out the best stuff, I can usually find four or five boards I would take after about 30 minutes of digging. I always let it acclimate in the shop for about a month before I break it down. After that I have never had a problem with movement or cracking.

I will mention that it is a bit of a pain to get clean good looking dovetails, but you can do it with practice.

I have two large chests that I am planning on making from the stuff and the lumber is well acclimated in the shop and hasn't moved or cracked at all.

[JohnnyNoName]

If you get the wide boards, you should be able to rip quarter-sawn boards from it. That should help some with the instability.

Jonathan

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[Bob Rozaieski]

I use a lot of Eastern white pine for my shop projects. Works just fine and is a real pleasure to work with compared to some of the really hard woods. Not exactly the same as SYP, but still in the pine family. Pine is one of the most stable woods available, so you should be fine. I've never had an issue. And I actually like the look of pine. Way more than plywood .

[AMarshall]

I'm late to the party, but I'll add my support for using SYP also. Plenty strong and useable. Just be sure to let it acclimate before using it, since it can be pretty wet on the rack at the BORG. I have seen it literally weep after a rip cut on a table saw.