Resawing ... wood movement

[Bobby Slack]

I was told that when we resaw, the lumber (or timber depending on the continent) tends to bow, warp ... freak out!

So the question is how realistic is to start resawing wood as a regular basis because I might be inviting other problems. May be if I want to match the grain pattern, I am better off doing a better job when I shop at the lumber yard.

What say you?

[Pete Bennett]

Depends on how you view it. I regularly re-saw mainly European white Oak, brown is so rare and expensive I rarely see it. To be honest I rarely have any real problems with any extra movement, baring in mind timber,or, as you say, lumber, never stops moving in some form or other. However, I do find I get much more of a problem with slash sawn boards than ever I do with true quarter sawn boards. I also find I get more problems with Cherry and Walnut. It's all down to the one thing we can rarely spot, internal stresses, most of which are present due to growth position and can be exacerbated when being felled. If the falling tree is allowed to bounce or roll too much that can cause a mass of problems. Some of which can be seen in the timber yard and some that cannot.

On balance I will continue to re-saw if only for economy and convenience.

Pete

[Bombarde16]

So the question is how realistic is to start resawing wood as a regular basis because I might be inviting other problems.

Yes, but you're gaining access to a vast range of benefits; so on balance it's a worthwhile skill to practice. Resawing is a central part of a.) bent lamination and b.) veneering. The former gets you into the jaw-dropping realm of curved pieces like this:

...the latter is both decorative and utilitarian. Inlays or marquetry are an art in themselves, something that you could just frame and hang. Being able to apply that skill to accent the corner or the apron of a table is a bonus. But even if you're not trafficking in exotics, veneering solid wood onto a substrate of ply or MDF allows you to design without concern for wood movement.

[Bobby Slack]

Veneering is something I filed in my head for the future. I dislike the paper thin veneers we get commercially. This would be a different topic. I wonder if 1/8" thick veneer is too thick. Would be nice to be able to get it up to 3/16"

[harmsdph]

buying 8/4 (or thicker stock) that is half as wide as a case side that you need and re-sawing (provided you have the band saw capacity) then gluing it up in a book match makes for a beautiful case side or buying a piece of 16/4 and creating drawer fronts that all match. items like that add the professional hand made touch to a project over something you might buy at a furniture store.

To answer your "freak out" question I have had good luck re-sawing a board, and then clamping the boards back together with the fresh resawn side facing out, allowing them to sit for a day or more and then planing to final thickness.

[Vic]

Bobby, you've seen Gretchin's Cradle. That thing is all resawn. The head and food boards to book match, the sides to match each other and the legs to make a bent laminate. I think as long as the lumber is dry, it shouldn't be a problem.

[wilburpan]

I was told that when we resaw, the lumber (or timber depending on the continent) tends to bow, warp ... freak out!

That's true for wood that you don't resaw, too.

Bobby, you've seen Gretchin's Cradle. That thing is all resawn. The head and food boards to book match, the sides to match each other and the legs to make a bent laminate. I think as long as the lumber is dry, it shouldn't be a problem.

Exactly. I think that if you are having issues with resawing, say, an 8/4 board to make two 4/4 boards, that's more an indication that the 8/4 board was not completely acclimated yet, and that there was a fair chance that if you used the 8/4 board to make something like a table leg, that the leg would have issues with movement over time as well.

My current lumber stash has a bunch of 8/4 stock in it that I got as a deal that I couldn't pass up. I've been resawing the 8/4 boards to make 4/4 boards, and haven't had issues with movement any more than I would expect from a 4/4 board.

[Bobby Slack]

Thanks for taking the time to reply this. I was told also that if I see a board that is warped or bowed at the lumber yard, leave it and get a straight one because i will have problems over time with it as well.

This "new" approach (that is ... new to me)of resawing, I consider it one more tool in my bag. I think that it will be a great way of saving material and bookmatching. It may not always make sense and that is all done in the design process.

The reason I bug you guys with the question is that when a new idea comes up to me, I like to run it through and do my homework before putting it in practice and avoid mistakes.

So far, the only thing I did with resawing was from 5/4 to 2 pieces x 1/2" of quarter sawn white oak. I am using the white oak to make my own loose tenons for a 5' wide gate that I am building.

The resawing on my table saw made me think of other possiblilities.

Oh life with ADD.

Now with your guidance I can apply this process to make other things like cabinet doors (center panels) with bookmatching boards.

Thank you again.

That's true for wood that you don't resaw, too.

Exactly. I think that if you are having issues with resawing, say, an 8/4 board to make two 4/4 boards, that's more an indication that the 8/4 board was not completely acclimated yet, and that there was a fair chance that if you used the 8/4 board to make something like a table leg, that the leg would have issues with movement over time as well.

My current lumber stash has a bunch of 8/4 stock in it that I got as a deal that I couldn't pass up. I've been resawing the 8/4 boards to make 4/4 boards, and haven't had issues with movement any more than I would expect from a 4/4 board.

[Vic]

Exactly what I use this forum and all the other sources of woodworking information for, Bobby. I've had this conversation with several people. With today's availability of information. The learning curve in woodworking has been GREATLY reduced.

[Bobby Slack]

The cradle looks great. What was your final material thickness?

Exactly what I use this forum and all the other sources of woodworking information for, Bobby. I've had this conversation with several people. With today's availability of information. The learning curve in woodworking has been GREATLY reduced.

[Bobby Slack]

Here is another one on resawing. I understand that if we want 1/2" net size thickness we can buy 5/4 and resaw it.

Where is the point of diminishing returns?

How thick of a veneer can you use? 3/16"?

[Vic]

The cradle looks great. What was your final material thickness?

Not really sure, Bobby. The cradle was designed using relative dimensioning...I think it was approx. 5/8" on the cradle sides, head and foot boards. The process of designing on the fly was an absolute blast. The cradle changed at almost every stage of the build. After a couple shop projects, I'll be doing a new entertainment center. It won't be as much of an organic design/build. But, I'm sure will still be quite fun.

[Bobby Slack]

Great work Vic ... on the entertainment center I am not sure if you are going to incorporate a flat screen but I am doing something at my home where the TV will be in a case that hosts a mechanism that raises and lowers it. In my view, artwork belongs on the walls ... not tv's.

Second I placed all the components in a different cabinet somewhere else so I did not sacrifice real estate in my living room.

My opinion is that designers today are not up with technology, the TV does not have to be together with the amplifier, dvd, etc.

For the components I bought a mechanism made by Accuride and works like a lazy susan so you can pull out your component tower and turn it so you access to your wiring instead of twisting your back and cursing.

Not really sure, Bobby. The cradle was designed using relative dimensioning...I think it was approx. 5/8" on the cradle sides, head and foot boards. The process of designing on the fly was an absolute blast. The cradle changed at almost every stage of the build. After a couple shop projects, I'll be doing a new entertainment center. It won't be as much of an organic design/build. But, I'm sure will still be quite fun.

[Vic]

Bobby, thanks for the heads-up on the Accuride set up, you're using. I, myself, rather love the look of the flat screen, so am wall mounting on a full swivel bracket. I'm doing sketches on the console and I'll probably post or blog it soon.