amateur eric Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 Saw my instructor in cabinet class throw this together. Thought it was pretty smart and creative. Was doing it to recreate another piece for a repair job. https://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/25/8a60c5129bdde0316a7e1c381ff8deab.jpghttps://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/25/f2819e8467e0c9f28ca8e754705d36e4.jpg] Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 You need to add spaces between picture links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 Not sure how I feel about putting lateral pressure against a tablesaw blade sticking out that high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 It does work but be very careful ! Only raise the blade 1/16th or LESS for each pass !It is not the best thing to do to your saw. I would not try it on a direct drive or light weight portable saw. A cast iron contractors saw at the minimum. If you needed 10 or 12 ft of cove molding it might be worth the effort. You will have a lot of hand sanding to clean up the saw marks. You need to use very straight consistent stock to run through a jig diagonally. Very parallel edges, extremely flat face too. Expect some warping and twisting after you remove that much material from a board. Softer woods like pine ,basswood and poplar behave pretty well. Hard maple or figured woods will be a nightmare !Proceed with extreme caution. The harder the wood the less you should take on each pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 I suggest a ripping blade with flat topped teeth, or even a dado stack. Combo blades will leave more grooves in the surface. Like Steve said, take very light passes, and a slow feed rate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rapid Roger Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 I've done it on short pieces of 5' or less to make small boxes. I've done it 3 or 4 times now and had fairly good luck with oak and walnut both.It does require a lot of sanding after the coving is done however. And as stated above, you must make several passes and raise the blade just a bit (1/8' or less) for every pass.I don't have a jig to do it, I just cut a rectangular hole in a piece of cardboard (matching the width of the area to be coved) and put it over the blade to locate a temporary fence clamped to the table of the saw. I raise the blade to the final height that I will cut, put the template over the blade and adjust the angle to match the width of the cove to locate the fence, remove the cardboard, lower the blade to 1/16" and make the first pass and check for the center being right before I continue with more passes. I forgot that I had also coved wood on a "SCRAP" box not long ago. Rog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amateur eric Posted August 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 I/32 Max and slow feed per pass will reduce the sanding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.