Sharping System, Which One?

[doninvegas]

If you were going to buy a sharping system which one would you but today? I don’t have a lot of planes or chisels but the ones I do have I need to keep sharp ‘cause I can’t just toss them and buy more. So, which one?

[CharlesEisenhuth]

That just might be a question for your wallet, Don. I'm a bit on the, how do you say, frugal side and I use the Scary Sharp system. I know that the abrasive papers are no bargain but for all the more I use it I can use it for the better part of the rest of my life for the cost of one of the machine systems. Keep us posted.

Later,

Chiz

[BuilderBill]

Don,

I have two or three drawers in a tool cabinet and a couple of shelves jammed full of sharpening stuff I've acquired over the years(not to mention the pure junk that was thrown away): a Norton Tri-Stone, Arkansas stones, India stones, ceramic rods with holders, granite plate, steel plates, oil-soaked MDF plates(that take a month or more to dry out), carbide granules, diamond pastes, stacks of wet/dry sandpaper, a Tormek 2000 with its own drawer full of jigs, an old Craftsman grinder with the Norton white wheels, Dia-Sharp plates, slipstones, whetstones, Rolling Stones, whatever.... You name it, I've probably bought at least one at one time or another

After all this about 95% of the time I use the Norton 220/1000 and 4000/8000 waterstones, a 10" black-blue DMT DuoSharp to flatten them and the Veritas Mark II honing guide with the cambered roller. Occasionally nostalgia will set in and I'll use the the old Eclipse jig but the Veritas is so easy to set up and add a microbevel with it's become my go-to setup. I'll drag out the Tormek for grinding if I want to reshape or fix a nick in a blade or sharpen scissors or kitchen knives. The Craftsman has been relegated to lawnmower duties except most of the time I'll just buzz them off freehand with a Makita angle grinder. For heavy-duty flattening I'll use some 4-1/2" PSA paper on the granite plate.

I don't turn or carve so I really don't have a need for anything fancy but the Tormek has a lot of jigs that will help immensely with those kind of tools. I leave the stone at its standard grit for grinding chisels and plane blades and go from there to the Norton waterstones. If you're just sharpening chisels and plane blades I'd pass on a grinder altogether and just get a granite plate and the PSA paper down to 80-grit. You can reshape a bevel pretty fast with 80-grit paper and a honing jig and it doesn't have to be done that often.

Oh, before you go out and buy anything I'd recommend you get the David Charlesworth DVDs on sharpening from Lie-Nielsen and watch them a couple of times. Fifty bucks up front will save you hundreds in the long run... His system really works and he covers the mechanics in mind-numbing detail. But that's what you want, right? They're the best how-to videos on sharpening I've ever seen(even if I did have to go through them 3 or 4 times just to make sure I stayed awake for all the good parts )

You don't have to spend a lot of money to get sharp edges, you just need some basic tools and guidance in how to use them. And some practice which only you can provide.

HTH,

Bill

[Craig]

I use a combination of systems. Waterstones, scary sharp, and the Tormek. Depends on what I am sharpening and the results I want.

[jHop]

I use a craftsman grinder for the turning chisels. then again, they are the harbor freight ones, so i'm not upset if I damage or ruin them. (how do you ruin cheap?)

But for my chisels and planes, I prefer sheets of sand paper attached to sheets of plexiglass. I would rather have granite, but it's not in the budget right now. Perhaps in May, after things settle out a bit.

I do have a diamond grit card, but it's primarily used to touch up some edges. and while I would love to have a Tormek, or Shapton waterstones, I have to accept that - based solely on where I am right now - I do not need them. Perhaps, if I had more than 3 bench chisels, and 2 planes, I'd add to the sharpening collection. But that will have to wait for after the new year.

[TomP]

Woodsmith shows a good way to sharpen planes

[Vic]

Don, watch Bud's method. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqg0bWb_Gl8&feature=player_embedded

[jimmykx250]

I just went to peachtree and bought the norton water stone set. The set includes 2 combo stones a dvd and a tray to hold the stones in water. I think it was around 120 bucks which is really cheap. Let me tell you this if you have blades with nicks or are out of square this system will work but you will spend forever on the 220 stone- this is where the motorized bench grinders or wet grinders have the advantage. I am currently shopping for a wet system to add to my collection and im leaning towards the grizzly set up. I dont like the dry grinders because it is to easy to overheat the blade during sharpening. Just my 2 cents.

[stahlee]

I use my Tormek for everything. I have all the jigs and once you figure everything out, it's pretty simple to use. It's great when I'm turning and have to keep touching up the chisels. Takes only a few seconds.

On the other hand, there are many ways to sharpen your tools.

[ztifpatrick]

If you were going to buy a sharping system which one would you but today? I don’t have a lot of planes or chisels but the ones I do have I need to keep sharp ‘cause I can’t just toss them and buy more. So, which one?

The veritas shapening system from Lee Valley is very good, I find that it with a couple of ceramic stoanes for touch up works.

[jHop]

Just remembered one last system I have. I actually got it for stropping my leather carving knives, but I use it to touch up the chisel blades. at least, the 1/4" chisel... the basic leatherworking kit from Tandy Leather includes a strop mounted on a non-slip back, and a jeweler's rouge stick. You can get the rouge from several leather supply companies, but since I'm within walking distance (2 miles) of a Tandy retail store, I go there. They have sales on them about three times a year.

[iSawitFirst]

Don't waste your money on a Worksharp. I've switched to the scary sharp method and am hooked.

[Lawrence Brown]

If you are just doing flat blades, like chisels and planer blades like you say, I agree with most of the guys here and especially Builder Bob. Start out simple with the Veritas jig and go from there.

That jig will allow you to get a consistent angle, which get's you about 80% of the way there. It's also a good way to go because you can start by using it on sandpaper, and if you like the way it works, then upgrade to stones or whatever you want. I too prefer the DMT diamond plates, but it's just a personal preference.

By the way, if you have a Woodcraft store in your area, you can check it out there before you buy. That's where I got mine. And the cambered wheel Bob mentioned is an extra. It's good for if you want slightly curved edges on your planer blades, which comes in handy some times, but you won't need it to get started.

[brtech]

Despite the negative note above, lots of folks do like the Worksharp.

If you have thought about purchasing one, there is an amazing sale going on at Home Depot of all places, online only.

The 2000 is on sale at $32.25 http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh7/R-100592903/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

and the 3000 is available for $62.25! http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh7/R-100592902/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

The list price of a 3000 is $249. The Amazon price is $189. The HD price is $62!

They are back ordered, and those of us who have one on backorder are worried they will cancel them, but $62? (or $32 for the 2000)? Talk about scary sharp

[jlloydparks]

I have had three of four sharpening systems, but I have settled on oil stones and have used them for about 3 years now. Most people pass over these today for the waterstones or a mechanical system. Oilstones work well for both O1 and A2 steel and I have been able to sharpen D2 steel. If you get to the more exotic stuff you will have trouble and might want to look at diamond paste or the really expensive waterstones.

They have some advantages over waterstones. They stay flat longer, they are usually cheaper than the other systems (don't forget with scary sharp to add in the price of sandpaper), and you don't have to worry about water rusting your tools.

It is as simple as two stones. A Norton Medium India stone and a Translucent Arkansas Stone. Total cost comes in at about $100. You can add in an Eclipse style jig for about $10, but it will need some tweaking. You can always go for the Veritas Mk II jig, costs a bit more but works out of the box.

[Vic]

I have had three of four sharpening systems, but I have settled on oil stones and have used them for about 3 years now. Most people pass over these today for the waterstones or a mechanical system. Oilstones work well for both O1 and A2 steel and I have been able to sharpen D2 steel. If you get to the more exotic stuff you will have trouble and might want to look at diamond paste or the really expensive waterstones.

They have some advantages over waterstones. They stay flat longer, they are usually cheaper than the other systems (don't forget with scary sharp to add in the price of sandpaper), and you don't have to worry about water rusting your tools.

It is as simple as two stones. A Norton Medium India stone and a Translucent Arkansas Stone. Total cost comes in at about $100. You can add in an Eclipse style jig for about $10, but it will need some tweaking. You can always go for the Veritas Mk II jig, costs a bit more but works out of the box.

What I really like about the water stones over the oil stones is, the same properties that make them dish so easily, also make keeping them flat a breeze. I just flatten them more often. Usually a couple swipes with a lower grit stone every time I finish a chisel or iron. Something to consider.