My workbench (yes, it's a Roubo)


SawDustB

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2 hours ago, Majones32004 said:

The bench looks nice! I plan to accent mine in a similar fashion but I'm still waiting for the hardware.  Do you have a rough estimate on how much lumber was needed for the leg vise, dead man and end cap accents? as well the middle piece (tool holder/stop) of the bench top?  I plan to purchase 8/4 Walnut but not sure if 12/4 is more appropriate...

Thanks! For the accents on my bench (really for the leg vise chop and the end cap), I had bought a piece of 8/4 sapele that was about 10 board feet (about 12" wide and 5' long). I didn't do the gap stop in sapele, but that for me came out of a single 8' long 10" wide piece of 4/4, so call it another 7 board feet. I ended up deciding to make the dead man entirely from maple, but it's basically another 2' long piece of 8/4 at about 8" wide (around 3 board feet). One thing to note, if you look at mine I laminated a piece of hard maple to the sapele to make up the thickness for the leg vise chop, so you'd have to buy a piece of 4/4 for that if you want it all from your accent wood.

I was very picky about trying to use all of the sapele from the first board I bought, because anything else from my supplier would have meant buying much larger boards, as that was all they had in stock.

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  • 4 months later...

So as I mentioned in the last post, the last details are the crank handle on the hand wheels and touching up the paint, along with final assembly. The issue I ran into is that this style of hand wheel is intended to be used with a straight crank handle that comes out a few inches (as on a table saw), but I bought the more compact style usually used with the rounded solid cast iron wheels. One type of crank has a stud (the ones I bought) and the other style accept a bolt from underneath, and these wheels even had a counter sink for that. My solution was to take a T nut and remove the spikes, then drill through for the diameter of the T nut (3/8"). This allowed me to keep the handle stationary on the top, and use the T nut to tighten it.

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It works fine, although I'll grind the sides flat to take a standard wrench size to make it easier to tighten. I also don't want sharp burrs where I might put my hand. The result looks pretty good in the mock up though. I should mention, this is an 8" Grizzly cast iron wheel (to fit on my 9" chop width). The crank handles have the 5/16" stud for mounting. You can still see that rather industrial green peeking through on the flange - now that I'm happy with my mounting details, that's getting painted black. There were a few scratches with getting these drilled out, too.

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I've got a similar wheel for the end vise, although I opted for the solid body (5") to get a little more momentum.

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2 hours ago, Alan G said:

You could also use a hex nut with a nylon insert. Sometimes referred to as a nylock nut. They make std and thin versions. 

 

Thanks, that was my first thought, before I had them in my hands. Unfortunately, there isn't enough of the stud coming through to catch more than about 1 thread with a standard or lock nut. The T nut helps because it goes into the thickness of the wheel. It's not as bad on the big wheel, but the small one is 5/16 thick and there's only 3/8 of thread.

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7 hours ago, Alan G said:

Gotch yah. I didn't think of the extended thread of the tnut. Along the same thought what about using the female side of a connector bolt. Then you can tighten with an Allen wrench. 

 

Yes, that's what I really wanted to use. It seems like almost all of that hardware is 1/4-20, but the threads on the handle are 5/16-18. I could only find them at a couple of places in the US with minimum orders and expensive shipping, so they would have ended up being $20-$30 for each nut. And I would have had to wait for them, so I figured I'd try modifying the t nuts first.

Here's what I ended up with after 10 minutes at the disc sander. I can put a wrench on it now.

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I'm assuming I can just scuff up the existing finish and then spray on a couple of coats of spray paint. What kind of lube do people normally use on this kind of thing? I figure I should do all the parts while I'm putting it back together. I'm thinking something that dries so it won't attract too much dust.

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