Battle Ridge Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 I am in the process of building a combination workbench / assembly table for my shop. The basic construction of the bench is 2x6 & 2x4 framing with a double layer of 3/4" plywood for a top and a tempered hardboard work surface. My plan is to install two drawers that will hold a variety of items including screws and fastening hardware, handtools and a variety of other items. Given the size of the drawers and how quickly the weight can add up, I would like for the drawers to be strong and heavy duty enough to support the load without sagging or failure - though at the same time economical to construct (thus no fancy drawer slides or hardware). Each drawer will be 30-3/4" wide by 42" deep and 5-1/2" tall. The drawers will be accessible from each side of the workbench and will pull out about 20 inches with the remainder of the unextended drawer supporting the extended section (thus allowing half of the items to be accessible from one side and the other half of the items from the other side of the workbench). The drawers will rest on a full depth support ("A" in the photo) and my plan is to install 1/32" thick "Slick Tape" on the top of each support and/or on the bottom of the sides of the drawer. There is a full depth 2x6 along the top of each side of the drawers to prevent the drawer from tipping and dropping when extended (with enough clearance to remove any swelling & expansion concerns). I would appreciate recommendations on the drawer construction and supports. What would be the best material for the fronts of the drawers, the sides, the drawer bottom, and for the drawer supports ("A" in the photo)? Also what type of construction / joinery would be best, and what type of additional supports would you recommend. I have searched around online but due to the drawer size and the weight of the contents, as well as the use (nothing fancy is needed, just adequate long-term functioning) I wanted to get the insight of anyone here. Thank you in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ronn W Posted February 15, 2018 Popular Post Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 Wow. Those are big drawers. By your description, "30 3/4 x 42" and "screws and fastening hardware, handtools" you could be looking at a lot of weight and a lot of friction .I would serioiusly consider one or both of the following. 1. add some framing so that you can cut the width of the drawers in half. 2. Have separate 20" deep drawers rather than one drawer with pulls on both ends. I know that means making a lot more drawers but the drawers will be a manageble size, and will be much less likely to sag or twist. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted February 15, 2018 Report Share Posted February 15, 2018 I would use 75 lb rated slides and have single drawers that back up to each other. Use 1/2" ply for the botttoms. I rabbet the 1/2" ply so it fits in a 1/4 x 1/4 dado in all 4 sides of each drawer. I start the groove 3/4" from the bottom edge of the drawer. I use 5/8 Baltic to make the drawer boxes. Dominos or dowels to assemble the drawer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 The carcass needs solid sides beside a drawer, or it will hit one of the uprights, and be aggravating to close. I had a step van that I kept tools in from the mid '70's until the early '80's. I had some built in drawers that were like heavy duty sailboat drawers. You had to lift the front over a ledge to slide it out. Sides of the cabinets were 3/4" Birch plywood (from the days when you could buy decent 3/4 Birch plywood almost anywhere). Drawer bottoms are 1/2" plywood in grooves, and everything else was Yellow Pine. When I outgrew that step van, I built the first shop, and put those drawers in the shop. I didn't make the sides of the cabinet solid, but simply have 2x4 verticals front and back, and they are still aggravating to close. I think these drawers are 2 feet wide. Some are quite heavy, but surprisingly not too bad to slide. I don't think I ever even waxed the runners. I don't mind them at all simply sliding wood on wood. I think the suggestion to put two drawers, back to back in each space is also the best design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Battle Ridge Posted February 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 As I begin to use the workbench and do assembly work on projects, I should develop a better idea of the type of things I use and will need on a regular basis. Instead of taking a one-size-fits-all approach, a mix of smaller and larger drawers might work better and utilize the space to it's maximum potential. One of my original thoughts was that the shelving and storage spot for my fastening and other hardware was on the other side of the shop (not convenient) and not the best organized, and as I transform a storage area (mowers, tiller, etc.) to a woodoworking area, I need to have the items, tools and other things closer at hand. I may just keep enough of the often-needed supplies for several projects at the work area and restock it when needed from the larger quantities I usually purchase, negating the need for the larger workbench drawers. For now, I may settle on having a few cardboard or other boxes at hand and as things accumulate I can use the forum info to develop a more carefully-considered plan to customize the work area. I appreciate all of the info everyone has shared and it has given me a much better perspective. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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