Embarrassed Newbie Posted April 13, 2019 Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 I have a Skilsaw SPT70WT portable table saw that I want to put in a custom built outfeed/assembly table. I would like to upgrade with a good aftermarket fence, but I only want one with a front rail as opposed to front and back. I see videos and photos online of people with this set up, but don't see many for sale and can't tell from the photos what brand/model they are using. Nearly all I find have front and rear rails. For example the Delta T3 (link) has both front and back rails, but the discussion has people disagreeing on whether it needs the back rail to be secure. I've also looked at the VSC rail system, but it's a bit expensive and I'd rather not deal with the metal work in creating the rail system. Any suggestions on a decent ($200-$400) front-rail-only table saw fence system? The table will be about 45" wide. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted April 13, 2019 Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 The rear rail on t-square style fences is generally to support the wings of the saw. The front rail serves this purpose on the front along with holding the tube that the fence ride on and locks to. Although it is a nice setup, by the time you get everything required to make a VSCT fence work you are well into the tier of a few quality fence systems. On a previous saw, I converted my 30" Biesemeyer commercial fence into a 40" by moving the tube over one set of holes. When you mention your 48" dimension is that the rip capacity you want to the right of the blade? If so, the next common length is 52" which, as you can see in your link, ups the price a respectable amount. If 36" to 40" of rip capacity will do you, a 30" fence system with the tube shifted to the right will get you there. The fences themselves also come in different lengths (front to back). My Bies was a long beast as shown above. My Saw Stop is several inches shorter but, this has been inconsequential. P.s. I found 30" to be too short most of the time and 40" to be long enough most of the time. The difference in moving the tube saved me from buying new rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted April 13, 2019 Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 Are you planning to fix the saw permanently into the work table, or keep it easily removable? If it will remain stationary, you can build a fence, or just a rail system to support a commercial fence, and attach it to the table. The saw itself doesn't appear wide enough or sturdy enough to support direct attachment of any commercial fence system I am familiar with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted April 13, 2019 Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 check this out 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave H Posted April 13, 2019 Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 Here are his plans https://ibuildit.ca/plans/wooden-table-saw-fence/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Embarrassed Newbie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 Gee- Thanks for the helpful post with pictures. The 45" will be the entire width of the table. The idea of shifting a 30" rail system is very helpful. I'll consider that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Embarrassed Newbie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 Wtnhighlander- I was going to permanently attach the saw into the table. You make a good point about the front of the saw perhaps being too small to support a large rail system. I've been going back and forth on whether to attach one directly to the saw or embed the saw within the table and attach the rail to the table instead of the saw. Given that its a small saw, I'd like a few extra inches between the front edge of the saw and the blade than I have now. When cutting a large piece on my crosscut sled, I've had difficulty because not enough of the sled's mitre bars are in the slots to make it steady. Adding a few inches would help. Embedding the saw fully within the table would solve both of these issues. But my concern is getting the saw and rail to be perfectly square and absolutely locked down. If I spend this much on a rail system, I want it to be accurate and square. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Embarrassed Newbie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2019 Higtron- I've flirted with the idea of building a fence. I've built more than a dozen jigs--some more accurate than others. For something so important as a fence, though, I think I'd rather spend the money and have something that (hopefully) will be accurate and square. Thanks for all the help, guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash11 Posted October 29, 2019 Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 Hey embarrassed newbie. Did you build the workbench around your saw? What did you do for your fence? I’m in the same boat, same saw same useless fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.