Chestnut

Newly Restored #3

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Very nice. I go with the Evaporust if the rust goes into a lot of crevices and things, but my new favorite method is a brass wire wheel on my bench grinder. As long as you're not too aggressive, I find it does a nice job of removing rust and leaving a reasonable looking surface.

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1 hour ago, SawDustB said:

Very nice. I go with the Evaporust if the rust goes into a lot of crevices and things, but my new favorite method is a brass wire wheel on my bench grinder. As long as you're not too aggressive, I find it does a nice job of removing rust and leaving a reasonable looking surface.

That does depend on the part that is being restored. Like the lever iron is difficult to clean up so evaporust might be good there. On my previous planes I've just left the tarnish on those surfaces as it fits the age and character of the plane. I like the results i got polishing the sides with the #3 i may go back and correct the inferior way i cleaned up my #7 & #4.

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Chestnut, Well it's been a while since you refurbished your #3... have you used it? How does it work? Have you figured out what was damaged?

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12 minutes ago, gmercer_48083 said:

Chestnut, Well it's been a while since you refurbished your #3... have you used it? How does it work? Have you figured out what was damaged?

I don't think that anything was damaged honestly. There must have been some blemish 100 years ago when it came out of the factory. I found  a post somewhere that claimed in WWI era they were sending all the tools that met spec out to military contracts and the "damaged" or "Imperfect" ones were sold to employees. What ever cause it to be flagged damaged was probably coverd by rust and I probably removed.

It works great. I do regret getting the O1 hock cap and iron though. The first time i used it the blade developed a nick even though i was planing clean wood. I haven't been using it since as a smoother because the nick leaves an imperfect surface. I should have gotten the PMV-11 cap and Iron like I wanted to originally.

I really like the size though, it fits my hands well and is versitle. The narrower iron compared to a #4 makes it a bit easier to push.

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Chestnut, I acquired two Fulton #3 planes at various venues. I set one up as a scrub plane and the other as a smoother. One thing weird about the Fulton is the depth adjustment is opposite of the Stanley. But they both perform well and if I find a Stanley #3... I'll snap it up.

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I have 2 #3s actually i put a bid on 1 not expecting to win and did. The other one had a non standard tote and knob. I should make better ones (these ones wobble and aren't very nice to use) and use it as a scrub plane. The Hock iron would probably work really well for that type of work as the steel would be softer to rework. I don't care to use the Stanley irons as if I ever upgrade and stop using them it'd be neat to have the original unmodified iron to go with the plane. That and they are kinda thin and soft as well...

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I like the old planes, but I have no Stanleys. I have a couple 100+ year old Sargents, a fore and a smoother. Both with Hock blades & caps. The original blade from the fore plane I use for cutting inlay strings but it's thin compared to the Hock blades (what isn't?).

I always like to think of the many hands before me that used them for whatever, and try to feel their energy while I use them. Yeah I'm a bit of a weirdo that way.

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