Popular Post Chestnut Posted September 13, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 I bought this #3 a long time ago put it in a drawer and never did anything with it. Well honestly at the time I bought 2 #3s (i still have the other one), and i took some parts and switched them around to make one more "authentic". This casting came with the stamp "DAMAGED" on it. I found that very interesting. I did some research before i bought it and from the research it sounds like it was a factory second that was sold to a Stanley employee. The handles that came on the casting were some bright orange home made looking things. I swapped them with the rosewood handles from the 2nd #3 I bought. I like to keep the work i do to the planes to a minimum. I don't really like to do the evaporust method as I find that it leaves an odd looking surface. So I cleaned up the sides and sole with some sand paper on my out feed table. It made a big mess. Though it was easy to clean up with some sandpaper on a sander. After the sand paper i further worked the surface with green scotchbrite, finishing with some polishing compound. I did a bit of work to the mating surface of the frog. It was VERY rough. Then i bought a new Hock o1 blade and got it tuned up. It takes a very nice shaving and the size is small but works for me. I'm excited to put it to use on a project. Figured I'd line up all my vintage planes on the aircraft carrier for a picture 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SawDustB Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 Very nice. I go with the Evaporust if the rust goes into a lot of crevices and things, but my new favorite method is a brass wire wheel on my bench grinder. As long as you're not too aggressive, I find it does a nice job of removing rust and leaving a reasonable looking surface. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted September 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 1 hour ago, SawDustB said: Very nice. I go with the Evaporust if the rust goes into a lot of crevices and things, but my new favorite method is a brass wire wheel on my bench grinder. As long as you're not too aggressive, I find it does a nice job of removing rust and leaving a reasonable looking surface. That does depend on the part that is being restored. Like the lever iron is difficult to clean up so evaporust might be good there. On my previous planes I've just left the tarnish on those surfaces as it fits the age and character of the plane. I like the results i got polishing the sides with the #3 i may go back and correct the inferior way i cleaned up my #7 & #4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmercer_48083 Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 Chestnut, Well it's been a while since you refurbished your #3... have you used it? How does it work? Have you figured out what was damaged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted May 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 12 minutes ago, gmercer_48083 said: Chestnut, Well it's been a while since you refurbished your #3... have you used it? How does it work? Have you figured out what was damaged? I don't think that anything was damaged honestly. There must have been some blemish 100 years ago when it came out of the factory. I found a post somewhere that claimed in WWI era they were sending all the tools that met spec out to military contracts and the "damaged" or "Imperfect" ones were sold to employees. What ever cause it to be flagged damaged was probably coverd by rust and I probably removed. It works great. I do regret getting the O1 hock cap and iron though. The first time i used it the blade developed a nick even though i was planing clean wood. I haven't been using it since as a smoother because the nick leaves an imperfect surface. I should have gotten the PMV-11 cap and Iron like I wanted to originally. I really like the size though, it fits my hands well and is versitle. The narrower iron compared to a #4 makes it a bit easier to push. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmercer_48083 Posted May 9, 2020 Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 Chestnut, I acquired two Fulton #3 planes at various venues. I set one up as a scrub plane and the other as a smoother. One thing weird about the Fulton is the depth adjustment is opposite of the Stanley. But they both perform well and if I find a Stanley #3... I'll snap it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted May 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2020 I have 2 #3s actually i put a bid on 1 not expecting to win and did. The other one had a non standard tote and knob. I should make better ones (these ones wobble and aren't very nice to use) and use it as a scrub plane. The Hock iron would probably work really well for that type of work as the steel would be softer to rework. I don't care to use the Stanley irons as if I ever upgrade and stop using them it'd be neat to have the original unmodified iron to go with the plane. That and they are kinda thin and soft as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chip Sawdust Posted May 11, 2020 Report Share Posted May 11, 2020 I like the old planes, but I have no Stanleys. I have a couple 100+ year old Sargents, a fore and a smoother. Both with Hock blades & caps. The original blade from the fore plane I use for cutting inlay strings but it's thin compared to the Hock blades (what isn't?). I always like to think of the many hands before me that used them for whatever, and try to feel their energy while I use them. Yeah I'm a bit of a weirdo that way. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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