Sami4004 Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 Dear Sir, I need help in project I’m doing, I have this table top from Ash wood I sand it 2 times using Mirka machine and sanding papers from the same. im still getting the same problem sanding marks big one I have doubts now it might be from the wood itself. please help me out thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ronn W Posted March 17 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 17 You don't mention what grit or grits that you are using. I would run the machine with the grain not in arcs or circles. Slower is better. Don't move too quickly. don't push down on the sander. Let the sandpaper do the work. Start with 120 grit if you have been using 80 or 120 grit. After 120, switch to 150, then 220 if you so choose. Take more time on the 150 than you spent with the 120 to be sure you remove all of the previous scratches. Some people will scribble pencil marks across the surface before starting the next grit. When the penciI marks are gone the previous grit's scratches should be gone. I take another pass or two after the pencil marks are gone to be sure. Looks like the machine is putting more pressure on one side than the other. Keep the machine balanced so pressure is even. Good luck. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sami4004 Posted March 17 Author Report Share Posted March 17 Thanks Ron, I started with 40 grit and 60,80,100,120,150,180 then 220 cleaning after each grit. I thought the surface is not in same level and this creates marks everywhere 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post gee-dub Posted March 17 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 17 Surface irregularities after removing stock are often pressure marks. Compressed areas from mishandling, shipping straps, or other occurrence that compresses/tears the fibers. There is no sanding these out until that damaged layer is removed. Certainly not what you want to find after you have already assembled something. At the stage your video shows I would be tempted to call it a design feature and move on. The alternative is to remove enough material until you get beyond the damaged fibers. Probably more material than you would want to remove. JMHO. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sami4004 Posted March 17 Author Report Share Posted March 17 I find your comment to be the closest, and I thought I would leave it as it is or replace it because it the thickness became 20mm after I used the router sled for cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Von Posted March 17 Report Share Posted March 17 I'll second gee-dub, especially if you are re-finishing the table. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mark J Posted March 18 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 18 Good advice above that I want to amplify. I find the pencil scribble trick to be very useful. But one thing I learned, don't hold the pencil upright and press down on the tip like you were writing, or you will dent the wood. Instead, hold the pencil closer to horizontal. Scribble all the way to the edges so your sanding goes to the edges, too. I like that you don't skip any grits in your sanding sequence, but, if you're building a new piece, 40 and 60 are very coarse grits. Unless you have some deep saw marks to remove. Starting somewhere between 80 and 120 is more common. A mineral spirits wipe down will not only clean off the sanding dust, but it gives you a preview of what the surface will look like when finish is applied. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sami4004 Posted March 18 Author Report Share Posted March 18 Dear Mark, thanks for your input I planning to replace the table top as time is the key here it’s matter of 16 screws holding the table with legs. I’ll take videos once finished thanks again 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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