Autumn Hall Table


Timberwerks

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I thought I'd post a project here to keep the ball rolling. Pictured is the Autumn hall table. It's named Autumn because the top is maple and maple trees and leaves remind me of Autumn. The base is ebonized ash and solid stainless steel. I used the Brian Boggs method for ebonizing. The top is soft maple with a bit of spalting and curl. The maple was milled here by me with an Alaskan mill, local tree services supply me with trees suitable for milling. The top is floating and the stretcher is joined to the sides with joinery alone, no glue or fasteners. The stretcher retains a natural edge with visible tracks from an emerald ash borer.

MapleTable1.jpg

IMG_2104-1.jpg

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Dale, that's an interesting juxtaposition between the more natural look of live edge with the industrial look of stainless tubing. It really creates a top that seems to defy gravity.

I have a question about live edge. I have a piece of highly figured maple that has a live edge and the bark is really solidly adhered. But, I prefer the bumps and nodules revealed where the bark has fallen off. What is the best way to remove the bark without marring the outermost growth of the slab? I'm still debating just using these two boards for veneers because I'd have a hard time "wasting" the wood on one or two pieces.

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Dale, that's an interesting juxtaposition between the more natural look of live edge with the industrial look of stainless tubing. It really creates a top that seems to defy gravity.

I have a question about live edge. I have a piece of highly figured maple that has a live edge and the bark is really solidly adhered. But, I prefer the bumps and nodules revealed where the bark has fallen off. What is the best way to remove the bark without marring the outermost growth of the slab? I'm still debating just using these two boards for veneers because I'd have a hard time "wasting" the wood on one or two pieces.

Hi Vic

Try to cut away most of the bark with a draw knife, cutting as close to live edge as possible then dampen the remaining bark. After you dampen the bark you should be able to work the rest of the bark loose, follow up with a brass or steel wire brush and some sanding.

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Hi Vic

Try to cut away most of the bark with a draw knife, cutting as close to live edge as possible then dampen the remaining bark. After you dampen the bark you should be able to work the rest of the bark loose, follow up with a brass or steel wire brush and some sanding.

Excellent!! Thanks Dale!

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