kbrunco Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I was making a book shelf for my son, and the lumber (1-in thick pine) at the orange big box store seemed to have some cupping issues. The cupping is making the joint between the shelf and the side of the book case have a gap and looks shoddy. What does everyone do to overcome this, if you don't have the option to not use the board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 What tools do you have? The standard Normite approach is to send it through a jointer and thickness planer. The standard Neanderthal approach is to go at it with hand planes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbrunco Posted February 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I am trying to be Neanderthal about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 I'm going to move this to Neanderthal village, since it's more about technique than the species of wood used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 only one option that i can see hand plane it even and then work with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted February 6, 2012 Report Share Posted February 6, 2012 What are the chances of it staying flat after you plane it flat? Wouldn't it be a good idea to let it dry out first? The wood at the BORG here is sometimes so wet that it feels cold to the touch. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwatson Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 option 1 cut down center, joint edges and re-glue option 2 cut a dado to exact thickness of the shelf in the sides and force the cup out in assembly. option 3 cut a rabbet on the shelves to fit in a dado on the sides and force in( when you cut the rabbet make sure to clamp your board flat on a work surface before starting to cut it ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceWW Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 When working with wood the rule is to expect some wood movement like cupping. When working with big box lumber the rule is to count on cupping. This wood is usually much wetter and dried faster so it is bound to move. No matter how many times you flatten it, it will probably move again. So embrace it and house your joints so that gaps don't show up. I don't know if you are making adjustable hegith shelves or not but if you support the shelf in a dado then when the side cups it won't expose a gap. Alternatively you can attach the shelves to the side using a sliding dovetail. This will lock the shelf in place and preven the side from cupping to some extend. Moreover the joint is housed so gaps won't appear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwatson Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Alternatively you can attach the shelves to the side using a sliding dovetail. This will lock the shelf in place and preven the side from cupping to some extend. Moreover the joint is housed so gaps won't appear. +1 recent show of the woodwright shop he makes some bookshelves using the sliding dovetail and as the piece settles it removes the cupping as its hammered in. http://video.pbs.org/video/1772022578 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbrunco Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Thanks everyone. I really like the idea of hiding them in Dados. I will have to check out that episode on the Wood Wright Shop. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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