Sanding Plywood


jmaichel

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Hopefully others will pipe in, but for me, if it's cabinet grade, I usually come in at about 180 grit if the surface looks good. You may have to remediate below that depending on the wood. You didn't indicate if you have the ETS 150 3 or 5 - the 5 is a little more aggressive with it's 5 MM RO stroke. You should also be paying attention to the surface veneer thickness.

Usually I can go with 180, wipe down/vac and first coat with finer sanding after that (rub finish).

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My rules for sanding plywood are:

1. Know how thick the outer layer is.

2. Start at 150 and move to 220.

3. Go carefully.

4. Don't be agressive.

and don't worry too much. If you stay aware of what you're doing you won't blow through the outer veneer. Otherwise, it is just wood - very thin wood but wood.

With good quality plywoods you don't need much sanding to get a good finish.

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My system for ply is a little different. I cut up all the pieces and wipe down with denatured alchohol. Wipe with a soft rag. One direction with the grain will feel smooth the other direction will snag the rag fibers. I use a good sized mirka vacuum hand sanding block. First stoke is in the rough direction the same direction that snags the rag fibers then the back stroke, move over half overlaping and do this all the way across the sheet. With 150 then 180. Once you have a rhythem you can sand as fast as an ro sander. Then I hit all the edges that are going to be stuck in a dado just enough to chamfer slightly.

One thing to look for on heavier plywood thicker than 1/2 is paddle marks. Cheaper imported ply like stuff from lowes and HD get sheet flpper marks. One side goes through a sander the the sheet is flipped but is dropped on metal bars before it gets conveyed to the next sander. Expensive plywood gets flipped onto a vacuum conveyer to prevent sailing and denting.

Don

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