JohnnyNoName Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Here's the quandry... A potential client wanted to know if I could make a coffee table or two out of a GIANT maple tree the fell in their yard. The trunk is approximately 48" - 60" in diameter and in two sections, each about 6' long. She would like to make the coffee tables out of cross sections of the tree. I have done something like this before, but nothing that size. Here are my questions: 1. What do you think the minimum thickness would need to be for stability? I'm thinking 8" - 12". 2. I was going to use Wood Juice to stabilize the wood. Is this the right way to go? 3. Any "imperfections" I would use a dovetail dutchman on. yes? No? 4. The tree has already been sitting for 18 months. How long do you think (rough guess) do you think they will need to sit to come down in moisture? Do I ned to worry about it if I use the Wood Juice? 5. Am I INSANE for thinking this will work? Jonathan =================================================== Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmykx250 Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 WOW! I like the wheelbarrow table. Pretty clever and only one split! I wish I could lend you some advice but please post how you pursue this as I would like to learn as well. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duckkisser Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 how much is she paying for this thats the first question id ask because this sounds like a bear to work with......can you hollow out the inside bottom a bit so it will dry faster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyNoName Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 how much is she paying for this thats the first question id ask because this sounds like a bear to work with......can you hollow out the inside bottom a bit so it will dry faster? I haven't even mention price, because I want to make sure that it is even possible. It will cost some good money, and we will cross that bridge when we come to it. I don't think hollowing it out would work. I think that would cause uneven stresses that would add to any splitting. I don't mind if it takes a long time to dry, and I don't think she will either, as long as it is done correctly. Jonathan ================================================ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 one year per inch of thickness if you are air drying. Might be less since you have so much end-grain exposed. I'd guess that end-grain dries faster. Are you going to use a kiln for this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyNoName Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 one year per inch of thickness if you are air drying. Might be less since you have so much end-grain exposed. I'd guess that end-grain dries faster. Are you going to use a kiln for this? I don't know if it will be kiln or air-dried. I guess it depends on how fast the client will want it. it will also depend on how wet the wood is when we cut into it. I never heard of a cross-section of wood being kiln-dried. Are there any issues with it? Jonathan ============================================ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 I don't know, but it's something to think about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted April 3, 2012 Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 I would think you'd want to dry that as slowly as possible to avoid checking. (null) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyNoName Posted April 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2012 I contacted the makers of Wood Juice and here was there reply: "Jonathan - Yes, it is possible to stabilize this piece of hard maple. Even though the tree has been down for 18 months, it is still green, so we recommend using the Pentacryl to treat it. If the dimensions are 60" diameter x 10" thick, it will require a little more than 6 gallons of Pentacryl. The key is to completely saturate the wood (by soaking or brushing it on) and then drying it SLOWLY. It will take a couple years to completely dry a piece this large. Although, you may be able to work with it sooner, just not apply a finish to it. You do not want speed up the drying or you will get rapid cracking." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derwood Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Pentacryl is good stuff. I just did a Spalted maple shelf, one peice, not much ww really. The drawback for me was shrink wrapping it and re wrapping it after putting a few more coats on. Messy and it feels like I'm in kindergarten again this lol. But the results are worth it. Good luck, sounds doable with patience. Btw, do you get to get any choice cuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyNoName Posted April 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Pentacryl is good stuff. I just did a Spalted maple shelf, one peice, not much ww really. The drawback for me was shrink wrapping it and re wrapping it after putting a few more coats on. Messy and it feels like I'm in kindergarten again this lol. But the results are worth it. Good luck, sounds doable with patience. Btw, do you get to get any choice cuts? I think I am going to be able to find some cut-offs if I want to. :-) Jonathan ========================================= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodendeavor Posted May 8, 2012 Report Share Posted May 8, 2012 I have played with some cross cut rounds with hit and miss results. I would cut more than one, the last tree I tried this on was 44" across and I lost half of the pieces that I cut due to checking. I used wood juice on them, it did not stop all checking. I had 2 pieces that I tried to slow dry with just anchor seal on the ends and they completely fell apart. I like the look of the dovetail to stabalize checks but worry about the strength, if it wants to move with humidity changes will it just crack with the grain? I used west system epoxy dyed with transtint to fill all of the checks Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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