landslide Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Got an initial glue up done. Here are the results. http://imgur.com/a/9DIOp Should I try and flatten the high spots with a #5 or #7, or just go straight to the planer? I'm getting mixed advice. etienne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 The planer makes the planed face parallel to the reference face. If you are uncertain about a decent reference surface, then running the stick though the planer will transfer reference surface issues. Have you taken a set of winding sticks to one face to verify that it is flat, straight and true? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 That's the key, is the face square to the edges. If it is, the face seems flat enough to take to the planer. But, as hhh says, I'd use some winding sticks and a long straight edge to make sure the reference face is perpendicular to the edge and flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgrella Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Neither. Take it to the jointer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Assuming he has a 12" or wider jointer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landslide Posted July 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 The planer makes the planed face parallel to the reference face. If you are uncertain about a decent reference surface, then running the stick though the planer will transfer reference surface issues. Have you taken a set of winding sticks to one face to verify that it is flat, straight and true? Not yet. Need to get some winding sticks... I also asked this question because I don't have any long hand planes like a #5 or #7. Neither. Take it to the jointer. 6" jointer here... not wide enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagel Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 6" jointer here... not wide enough. Not sure if this will help you out, but Marc recenly addressed this issue here - http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/milling-wide-boards/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landslide Posted July 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Not sure if this will help you out, but Marc recenly addressed this issue here - http://www.thewoodwh...ng-wide-boards/ Yeah, I saw that video. The slab is 7-13/16" so it's not like that technique wouldn't work. But it may not work for the second slab which is over 11" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 In the Ruobo Guild Build Shannon demonstrates how to flatten the slabs with hand tools, and Marc shows how to do it with a router. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 make yourself some winding sticks and see how much work needs to be done... if not much, get yourself a #7 -- it's one of those tools that you will use over time, you really can't go wrong with adding a #7 to your portfolio. if it's way out, it may be faster to call around to your local tech school or cabinet shop -- they will normally do a one-off on the jointer, if asked nicely. as much as i like the router method demonstrated by Marc, I would consider the above two solutions first... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgrella Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Jointing wide boards: Establish a flat reference side by face jointing what you can on your jointer (remaining amount hangs off). Use hand plane to bring remaining material in-line with face-jointed reference side. Cake. http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=v5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgrella Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Assuming he has a 12" or wider jointer... Not needed. See here http://www.garagewoodworks.com/video.php?video=v5 (one of my older videos - go easy on me) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryMcK Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 Looks like a lot of work to do entirely by hand. Knock the high spots down with a #5 and then you could try skip planing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pagel Posted August 1, 2012 Report Share Posted August 1, 2012 Looks like a lot of work to do entirely by hand. Welcome to my world. I wish I had a jointer and planer, but the therapeutic advantages of using hand planes seems to have ummmm some value... perhaps. That's what I'm telling myself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeptree Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Another idea for you guys...this is what I am doing. I have a guy that runs a fine lumberyard nearby. When I finish my glue up, I am taking the surfaces to him for jointing then planing. He has a 16" jointer with a helical head and a 24" planer with helical head. He is going to charge me $30 for doing both pieces, provide I help him unload and feed/catch. :-) This should save me a LOT of time, of which is my most rare commodity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allencrane Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 Not a bad idea Deeptree, but the planer will not solve for any twist that you may have. I took my top to a cabinetshop with a wide belt sander, and it worked beautifully (huge timesaver - a priority for me as well). My glueup was not bad, but not precise. I had some pieces that were 1/32"-to-1/16" off from each other and the belt sander was perfect to take off just the right amount, and get it perfectly flat. My planing skills are not there yet - I most certainly would have taken off more than I should have. Also, when I milled my boards, I was not at the desired 4" thick, and the sanding just took off the absolute minimum needed. My finished thickness was 3 5/8", and only required minimal adjustment from the plans to install the end vice. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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