Sanding before shellac

[NYHump]

Ok, I have almost finished my project(s) and now it's time to complete the sanding, I plan on putting 3 coats of shellac sanding in between coats with 220 grit then after the 3rd coat buff with steel wool and wax. My question is to what grit should I be sanding the wood before the 1st coat of shellac. I'm thinking that the 3 coats of shellac will fill the wood so can I get away with just sanding to a 150 grit or must I get it to 220 grit or better. Just to let everybody know there are 7 different types of wood, walnut, purpleheart, cherry, hard maple, paduak, zebra, and yellowheart.

Thanks,

NYHump

[Vic]

If I remember correctly, Marc usually only goes to 180. But, I would say no further than 220. That's the directions for the Sutherland finish I just bought. I'm thinking the final sheen would have influence over your final prep. I like a close to the wood finish rather than the high gloss look. It'll be interesting to see what others are doing.

[PaulMarcel]

Definitely want to see pictures of that!

I'm not thinking you need to sand so early between coats. Between second and third would do then do what you want after the last for the sheen. Hmm, thinking further, I'm assuming you are spraying shellac. I just coincidentally sprayed shellac tonight and the first spray coat wouldn't take sanding well; too thin. Have a piece of scrap handy and spray it at the same time as your project. You can later sand the scrap first to make sure it's dusting okay, though usually shellac is dusting after 30 minutes.

[NYHump]

Definitely want to see pictures of that!

I'm not thinking you need to sand so early between coats. Between second and third would do then do what you want after the last for the sheen. Hmm, thinking further, I'm assuming you are spraying shellac. I just coincidentally sprayed shellac tonight and the first spray coat wouldn't take sanding well; too thin. Have a piece of scrap handy and spray it at the same time as your project. You can later sand the scrap first to make sure it's dusting okay, though usually shellac is dusting after 30 minutes.

I'm actually going to wipe on the shellac. I tested it on some scrap pieces and it looks like it will be ok with the 150 grit. I will give it the 2nd coat tomorrow. Yeah I can see where the 1st coat won't need to be sanded, maybe I can just sand the last coat then apply the wax with the steel wool.

Thanks guys

[PeteJr]

What grade/coarseness of steel wool do you use?

[bois]

Sanding to 220 before applying the first coat of shellac should be fine (although with cherry or maple, I tend to go to 400). As for sanding between coats, this is entirely unnecessary. Each subsequent coat of shellac slightly dissolves the prior coat (unlike a poly which builds on top of each coat). Therefore, your sanding efforts would be largely wasted anyway. The exception would be if you got any dust nibs or flaws in a coat that needed to come out, but one of the big advantages to shellac is the quick drying time, which minimizes any flies in the ointment.

[AceHoleInOne]

If this were me, keep going up, to 180 then 220, your done. Wipe your wood down with a 50/50 of denatured alcohol and water to get everything clean. I do scuff (wipe) after the first coat with a maroon scuff pad about a 320 grit. I do block sand sand my mid-coats with either 400 600 paper to get everything dead flat, removing any lumps or bumps .

-Ace-

[NYHump]

What grade/coarseness of steel wool do you use?

Pete,

I use 0000 grade steel wool. I have used it in the past on some raised panel doors I made for my linen closet. They came out beautiful just like my store bought kitchen cabinets.

[NYHump]

Definitely want to see pictures of that!

I'm not thinking you need to sand so early between coats. Between second and third would do then do what you want after the last for the sheen. Hmm, thinking further, I'm assuming you are spraying shellac. I just coincidentally sprayed shellac tonight and the first spray coat wouldn't take sanding well; too thin. Have a piece of scrap handy and spray it at the same time as your project. You can later sand the scrap first to make sure it's dusting okay, though usually shellac is dusting after 30 minutes.

Paul,

I started wiping/brushing on the shellac but I think I would be better off spraying it. What type sprayer do you recomend? What do you have? I have a lot of boxes to do so I think it's time for me to pony up for a decent one without breaking the bank! Mostly going to spray shellac cause I like the way it comes out. Thanks for your help and anybody else out there who would like to add.

NYHump

[PaulMarcel]

There were some threads previously about HVLP, turbines, conversion guns, etc. Likely better to re-read those since there are lots of variables. If you have a big compressor, a conversion gun is great. If not, an Earlex turbine can be fantastic. Someone also mentioned the cheap HVLP from Rockler works well. Another said the inexpensive gun from HF worked well, ditto for the Woodriver HVLP conversions at Woodcraft.

All have pros/cons so give those threads a read. Mine's a conversion "LVLP" gun from HomesteadFinishingProducts.com. Certainly wasn't cheap and I'm betting others are getting as good results with cheaper systems.

Shellac sprays easily. With a gun and shellac, you will be able to quickly seal off projects, control blotching, tone, etc