rodger. Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 Is there a sink in this counter somewhere? No, the sink is in the island. It's a thirteen foot, uninterrupted piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 If you want to cover the end grain you need to allow for wood movement! A breadboard end or a sliding dovetail...something that will allow a 25"- 26" kitchen counter of solid walnut to move about an 1/8 inch over the seasons. I like to sand the end grain with every grit that I have in succession untill it is glassy smooth. Show off the fact that the top is solid wood! Don't forget to put some sort of finish on the underside before you install it, this will help control the moisture content in your counter. We used Waterlox on our project. I was thinking about Waterlox. Another option I was considering is general salad bowl finish. I normally use a block plane to clean up exposed end grain. Does the successive grits of sandpaper give a better result? Where do you stop? The finest grit I normally keep handy is 600. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 I quit at 320 . A really sharp plane does fine untill it catches and tears. A few passes with some fine grits will even everything out with no torn grain. Haven't used Generals salad bowl finish but it should be fine. I think Waterlox is pretty easy to use and has given me good results for over 35 years. Hard to beat a track record like that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 I quit at 320 . A really sharp plane does fine untill it catches and tears. A few passes with some fine grits will even everything out with no torn grain. Haven't used Generals salad bowl finish but it should be fine. I think Waterlox is pretty easy to use and has given me good results for over 35 years. Hard to beat a track record like that. Thanks steve. I always enjoy your informative posts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris H Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 I was thinking about Waterlox. Another option I was considering is general salad bowl finish. It would depend how much shine you want. General Finishes Salad Bowl finish is relatively dull once it's cured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted January 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 It would depend how much shine you want. General Finishes Salad Bowl finish is relatively dull once it's cured. I have used it on a few projects in the past. It is pretty durable, but a bit expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 From what I hear Waterlox will be excellent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick218 Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 ^^^ this lol On a serious note try this- it is extremely strong, far superior to a scarf joint( I think the look tacky and cheap) and has a decorative appeal to it as well 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBaker Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Wow, Sean. I love that first joint. I'm going to have to try that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 It's a good joint, but I'm not sure it's secure enough. It needs something more... maybe some drawbore pegs. And some pockethole screws, just to be sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick218 Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 It's a good joint, but I'm not sure it's secure enough. It needs something more... maybe some drawbore pegs. And some pockethole screws, just to be sure. It's a good joint, but I'm not sure it's secure enough. It needs something more... maybe some drawbore pegs. And some pockethole screws, just to be sure. lol I hope that's a joke. Wow, Sean. I love that first joint. I'm going to have to try that one. That is an example of Japanese joinery. I find that it is almost always overlooked based on the complexity of creating them. However they are extremely strong and can last hundreds of years. A quick google search will yield some amazing pictures, I really liek the fact that they are meant to be decorative while serving their main purpose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 lol I hope that's a joke. Yeah,maybe I should have put a smiley on it. I'm still laughing at the idea of making a beautiful joint like that, and then putting in some pockethole screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBaker Posted January 27, 2013 Report Share Posted January 27, 2013 Gosh, Chip. I wish I had known you were joking. After making the joint, I read your post. I had run out of pocket screws, so I just stapled it together from all four sides. What color filler should I use over my fasteners? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 What, you're not going to paint it? Three or four coats of paint will hide all those ugly joints. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRBaker Posted January 28, 2013 Report Share Posted January 28, 2013 LOLOLOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick218 Posted January 29, 2013 Report Share Posted January 29, 2013 Ha Ha that's gold^^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2013 Just a non-update. I have yet to begin this project, but will start soon. I will post some pics when the time comes. Thanks for the input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 Okay, a real update. I bought about 24 bf of 8/4 walnut and have begun this project. I am currently gluing up and grain matching two smaller sections of the countertop (about 20 inches wide each ). I do have a chance of getting some 14 footers for the long section, so keep your fingers crossed! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted July 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2013 Got it! I finally found walnut, 6/4 rough, in 13 and 14 for lengths. Now I can start the big countertop. I will be flattening one side by hand, and then running it through the planer to surface the second side. I will joint each edge with my new veritas jointer plane, and then biscuits and glue to laminate it together. I had to drive 3 hours return to get the lumber, but it was worth it. Almost every piece is knot free, and the smallest width is just under 7 inches. I need 41 bf for the completed top, but bought 62. Should have some nice off cuts for future projects. And the really good news is that it was very reasonably priced. I paid 5.25 a bf for 6/4, and my local guy charges 6.28 a bf for 4/4. Here is a pic of the rough lumber. I guess I won't need to glue end to end after all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted July 10, 2013 Report Share Posted July 10, 2013 Nice looking stock! Good luck with those long joints. I have used a long straight edge and a router to get tight joints that long. I just kept shifitng my 8 ft straightedge until I had a really straight edge on my cleanest, flattest board. Then I used it as router guide to straighten the rest. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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