Hand Cut splines in wide miters


NorthSummmit

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Greetings!  I'm looking for suggestions on hand cutting splines that run parallel to the miter instead of perpendiculiar.  I'm building a sort of hanging box shelf that I want the grain to remain continuous around the entire thing.  I'm thinking that the glued up miter joint might be too week without some sort of support but I'm trying to avoid interrupting the grain with perpendiculiar splines.  I've seen online people doing it with a table saw, I'm trying to avoid this because I only have a cheap Skil bench mounted table saw that is probably not accurate enough to make that cut.  Being a primarily hand tool woodworker anyway I'd like to do it by hand.  Any help or shove in the right direction would be great, Thanks!

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First, you'd be surprised how strong the glue joint will be with out splines so I wouldn't put a tremendous amount of worry about how weak it will be but I'm having trouble conceptualizing what you're trying to do with the spline.  If the spline runs parallel to the joint it totally interrupts the flow of the grain, a divider if you will.  If the spline is cut perpendicular to the joint, the grain continues to flow both above and below the spline.

 

If you're setting typical splines and want to hand cut them, you would do it the same way those of us who use a table saw do though I'd suggest some kind of jig to make sure your cut is straight.  Glue your miter, allow to dry and then cut across the joint with your handsaw.  Be careful not to cut too deep so as not to go through to the other side of the joint.

 

If I'm thinking correctly on a parallel spline (still not sure I understand) I guess you would cut into your miter from the inside to the depth of the spline.  Just like on any other spline, I'd use a flush cut saw cutting toward the corner flush with and from both sides forming the new "v."  Finish by sanding with a piece of folded sandpaper.

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I watch Rough Cut because I have to...Tommy built a mitered hall table this season and he used splines that were perpendicular to the miter but were still hidden since he was going for that continuous grain look like you are.  If you can get this episode somehow, it's a good technique...

 

http://www.thomasjmacdonald.com/content/mitered-hall-table-0304/

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Thanks for the suggestions, I'm going to check out that episode of The Woodwrights Shop when I have some time.  I've been thinking about it and I was actually thinking of a router plane usint the fence may work and it kinda gives me the excuse to by the Veritas router plane I've had my eye on for some time (but sadly there out of stock until mid March).  But I guess until that time I'm going to give it a shot with a saw and some chisels, if you can draw a line than you can make the cut right?  I think a plow plane would be a bit squierrely just because of its narrow sole, regardless of the fence but who knows, i'll try anything once.  Thanks again!

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I think Roy Underhill uses that exact type of joint in the 'Eleven Grooved Box' episode. See the groove making at around 12:30 in the video.

 

HTH

 

John

So I just finished watching the "Eleven Groove Box" episode of the Woodwrights Shop and it was exactly what I needed.  A plow plane is the perfect solution, I just wasn't thinking of creating the 90 degree angle with the other mited piece of wood.  I'm also a little ashamed to say that that was the first episode of The Woodwrights Shop and now I'm hooked.  I've read articles on and by Roy Underhill before and have seen interviews before but this is the first time I've really seen him in action and he is pretty damn awesome.  He has so many cool tricks, tips and techniques its amazing.  Thanks John for the suggestion!

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Think of this like cutting a tenon or more appropriately, a bridle joint.  Cut your miter and shoot it to a perfect fit.  Then layout the groove with a mortising gauge or similar.  Now saw along those lines to depth.  The use a chisel to pop out the waste and pare to the right depth right on your layout lines.  Keeping the gauge setting constant throughout will ensure your grooves line up on all 4 corners.  Just make sure you mark a reference face and always mark from the same face. 

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If I'm understanding you correctly, I would use a Plow Plane to cut the grooves.

 

 

Think of this like cutting a tenon or more appropriately, a bridle joint.  Cut your miter and shoot it to a perfect fit.  Then layout the groove with a mortising gauge or similar.  Now saw along those lines to depth.  The use a chisel to pop out the waste and pare to the right depth right on your layout lines.  Keeping the gauge setting constant throughout will ensure your grooves line up on all 4 corners.  Just make sure you mark a reference face and always mark from the same face. 

 

Both the above will work really well and I would very much recommend you do put splines/loose tongues in the joint. The glue joint by itself will be very weak. The loose tongue also give a really nice way of lining up the joint really flat and increase glue surface area. I chose to put loose tongues in the edge joints when making the wide boards on my tool chest sides mainly for an accurate location.

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I did a trial run using the plow plane method Roy Underhill demostrated in the "Eleven Groove Box" episode and it had its ups and downs.  Using a plow plane cross grain (ooo that ryhmed) is not that easy, I'm thinking my blade is due for a good sharpening so I'll do that and give it another try.  I'm going to give the draw a line and cut to it method this weekend and decide which will be best. 

 

P.S. I just finished my "Improved Donkey's Ear Shooting Board" from Hand Tool School to help with the wide miter and so far it works perfectly!

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  • 2 months later...

I spent the month of March making Eleven Grooved Boxes.  The spline grooves are very difficult to cut without shredding the edges, I think Roy has an iron right hand and holds the plane perfectly straight.  I solved the problem by making a fixture to hold the plow plane perfectly steady.  Documented it on a Wordpress page https://wb8nbs.wordpress.com/ have a look, hope it helps.

post-14029-0-94950100-1368380137_thumb.j

 

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  • 5 months later...

I spent the month of March making Eleven Grooved Boxes.  The spline grooves are very difficult to cut without shredding the edges, I think Roy has an iron right hand and holds the plane perfectly straight.  I solved the problem by making a fixture to hold the plow plane perfectly steady.  Documented it on a Wordpress page https://wb8nbs.wordpress.com/ have a look, hope it helps.

attachicon.gifDSCF1277.JPG

I've finished a blog on making some of these boxes

https://wb8nbs.wordpress.com/category/eleven-grooved-box/

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