Danish Oil and Minwax Wood Finish

[Keggers]

I'm at that finishing stage for my project. The wood is red oak ( the only wood I'd apply a stain to.)  I'm staining it to match a family member's kitchen cabinets.

 

I plan to use Minwax Wood Finish stain and Danish Oil. I'm wondering if there is any reason to use the Danish oil as the Minwax seals the wood. From what I've read, the Danish oil doesn't provide much protection -  not that I'm needing much for the project. My plan was to stain and then apply the Danish oil. Or do I have that backwards?

 

I just put some stain on a test piece and am waiting for it to dry before the next step of applying Danish oil.

 

Like I said, I'm not much into staining wood so I am at a loss as to how to proceed. Any insites are greatly appreciated.

[Coop]

I'm with you sir. When I stain would, it's not intentional.

 

Will be interesting to see the answers.

[Bill Tarbell]

This sounds similar to going on right now where someone is having trouble applying stain over top of shellac.  It seems reasonable that even though the danish oil is a blend, it may still be possible to build up too thick of a film finish prior to applying your stain.  If you already have the products on hand then it might be worthwhile to do a test sample to ensure the stain still penetrates the danish oil's varnish film.

[Keggers]

This sounds similar to going on right now where someone is having trouble applying stain over top of shellac.  It seems reasonable that even though the danish oil is a blend, it may still be possible to build up too thick of a film finish prior to applying your stain.  If you already have the products on hand then it might be worthwhile to do a test sample to ensure the stain still penetrates the danish oil's varnish film.

So the Danish oil should go on the wood before the stain?

[Bill Tarbell]

So the Danish oil should go on the wood before the stain?

Sorry, i didn't mean to imply that this was a wise approach.  I'm rather green in regards to finishing so it'd be better if someone else gave their insight on that matter.  I just wanted to raise the other thread to your attention so that if you did go the 'danish oil under stain' route then you'd be aware that it may be possible to use too much danish oil.  Regardless as to what others suggest as the appropriate route you could still try to do a test on a piece of scrap to see how it reacts.  First hand experience via an isolated test is always useful.. even if the results turn out poor

[Keggers]

Sorry, i didn't mean to imply that this was a wise approach.  I'm rather green in regards to finishing so it'd be better if someone else gave their insight on that matter.  I just wanted to raise the other thread to your attention so that if you did go the 'danish oil under stain' route then you'd be aware that it may be possible to use too much danish oil.  Regardless as to what others suggest as the appropriate route you could still try to do a test on a piece of scrap to see how it reacts.  First hand experience via an isolated test is always useful.. even if the results turn out poor

Not a problem. I appreciate your input. I stated above that I've stained a test piece and am waiting for it to dry. I just wasn't sure if I was applying the finish in the correct order or even needed to use both. I was only considering using Danish oil because of the ease of use. If it doesn't work, then I'll stain the oak and use wipe on poly.

[Keggers]

There seems to be some misinformation out there that you want to put finish under stain. You don't. any kind of finish, even a light coat of shellac, will impede a stain from penetrating and coloring. Sometimes you need to put a seal coat under stain (to control blotch or seal contaminents) but that is the exception and not the rule.

Thanks! That's answers one of my concerns. I'll see how the Danish oil reacts to the stained test piece tomorrow. If I don't like the results, I'll go with General Finishes wipe on poly which has worked well for me. I guess I was just wanting to try something new.

[wtnhighlander]

The little experience I have with danish oil indicates that it is mostly oil, with a bit of pigment, and very little or no resin. I would use it as a coloring agent, but not necessarily a top coat. In your case it sounds like the Minwax matches the exisitng cabinets, so I would apply the stain, followed by a wipe on poly, and skip the danish oil.

[wdwerker]

Watco Danish oil has been my go to finish for little quick projects like Nick-knack shelves and small boxes. Not a fan of it for big surfaces or cabinets. Your wipe on poly is a good decision.

[RichardA]

I've using red oak quite a lot recently for my own furniture.  I been using a stain that doesn't alter the color of the wood that much, then followed with WDO... What I will say is that WDO requires a long time to become dry enough to apply a poly finish.  Generally I wait a week, in a controlled temp [about 65 to 70*] and it works quite well... A light sanding between the poly coats to knock of the tiny nibs.  What I like about this sequence, is that the WDO brings up the color on the harder grain, and gives the project a brighter look!

[Raefco]

The only time I ever put anything under oil stain, I'll wipe the item being stained down with mineral sprites, paying attention to spots that seem soak up more to avoid dark spots. Pine is about the only wood I do this on unless I am looking for less color.