Dknapp34 Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Looking for a replacement v-belt for a very old (1940's) Delta-Milwaukee 37-207 6" jointer. The manual doesn't list the belt size, but does list a part number (#560). Any chance the number 560 means it is a 56" belt? I'll admit my ignorance on all things mechanical, so I have no idea if there is a standard numbering system for belts. Assuming I can figure out the right size, will any old v-belt do, or should I be looking for something in particular? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minorhero Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 #560 probably does not mean a 56" belt. String method works well. I buy cogged vbelts. I find they run quieter and they only cost a few dollars more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atlinwi202 Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Use an online belt calculator. You need pulley outside diameters and distance from center of shaft to center of shaft. Your belt is an "a" belt or the equivalent "3L". Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Great, thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Another option is to use power twist vbelt, then you can make it whatever length you need http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V9146&gclid=CjwKEAiA_ra1BRDV-byb_aDqpQoSJAA-ofB9CV9NHqKNzcRRwjDUTDpHot0jXWwyB824cDPbDQqYuRoCR6jw_wcB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat60 Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 I agree with Andy..Use them on table saw and jointer...Less vibration also.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 4 hours ago, Andy Wright said: Another option is to use power twist vbelt, then you can make it whatever length you need 3 hours ago, mat60 said: I agree with Andy..Use them on table saw and jointer...Less vibration also.. Well, I feel stupid. I put one of those on my old 40's craftsman TS a few years back and yet it never occurred to me to just use one on the jointer. Doh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Got a link belt and put only to have the bottom pulley fly off the jointer when I turned it on. The hole for the set screw that holds the pulley in place is stripped out. Looks like I need a new pulley as well. So my follow up dumb question to my initial dumb question is where's a good place to get a replacement pulley? My go to just about everything, Amazon, seems to have pretty slim pickings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Wright Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Grizzly has a decent selection of pulleys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 If the set screw hole is the only problem, it might be more cost effective to buy a tap to repair it, than to replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atlinwi202 Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Go to a bearing house, fleet farm, hardware store. They will all have pulleys. Or order from McMaster Carr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 9 hours ago, wtnhighlander said: If the set screw hole is the only problem, it might be more cost effective to buy a tap to repair it, than to replace it. I thought about that and I have taps, but because of the position of the hole, I wouldn't be able to get the tap in straight when it's chucked in my drill. I suppose I could drill and tap an entirely new hole on the other side that is a little farther away where there is more room, but that seems like more work than it's worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 I tried Griz and McMaster Carr and there didn't seem to be anything that was the correct size. I did find a used one from the same jointer on ebay for pretty cheap, so I'll guess I'll just give that a try and hope that it isn't stripped too. Thanks for the help guys. I always feel a little lost when it comes to anything mechanical. If I could afford all brand new tools with warranties I'd be a happy man. Less time working with metal and more time working with wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 I order mine from CNC Speciality Store. They're made from machined steel. More expensive then the cheapos you get from the True Values type stores, about the same as Grainer. Great quality and made in the USA. I would definitely recommend checking it out. If I could I'd replace the pulleys on my table saw too. Although their three belt pulleys aren't cheap. I second the suggestion for adding a link belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brendon_t Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 For a tight budget, I'd think re drilling and taping your existing pulley vs buying a used one would save $ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 Update: So I got the replacement pulley from ebay and it was in good shape. I put it on with the belt and fired up the jointer and everything was good. Ran a test board over the jointer and the motor crapped out on me. Wouldn't turn on a for a few minutes, so I waited and tried again. Same thing happened. Not sure what the problem is, but at this point I'm loathe to sink any more money into this thing. The motor on my Stanley #7 hasn't crapped out on me yet, so I guess I'll just stick to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 I have an old Davis & Wells jointer which had what sounds like a similar type of problem. It would fire up, run for a couple of minutes, and then stop. Five or ten minutes later I could repeat the short-lived operation if I cared to. I know very little about electricity and I'm not sure if it is the same with your motor but mine needed a "heater element". I found one on ebay for $6. Maybe your heater element is bad. Or possibly your heater element is for 220v and you are running it on 110v. As I understand it, a heater element acts as a thermal cut-out switch so that the motor doesn't over heat. You have to get the one which is appropriate for the motor and the voltage you are using (110 or 220v). That info is usually found in the chart which is on that metal plate on the side of the motor. Edited for spelling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dknapp34 Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 1 hour ago, davewyo said: I have an old Davis & Wells jointer which had what sounds like a similar type of problem. It would fire up, run for a couple of minutes, and then stop. Five or ten minutes later I could repeat the short-lived operation if I cared to. I know very little about electricity and I'm not sure if it is the same with your motor but mine needed a "heater element". I found one on ebay for $6. Maybe your heater element is bad. Or possibly your heater element is for 220v and you are running it on 110v. As I understand it, a heater element acts as a thermal cut-out switch so that the motor doesn't over heat. You have to get the one which is appropriate for the motor and the voltage you are using (110 or 220v). That info is usually found in the chart which is on that metal plate on the side of the motor. Edited for spelling. Thanks, Dave. How did you confirm that it was the heater element that was the problem? I'm a newb when it comes to electrical, but I'm willing to give it a shot if it's easy to diagnose and fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 2 hours ago, Dknapp34 said: Thanks, Dave. How did you confirm that it was the heater element that was the problem? I'm a newb when it comes to electrical, but I'm willing to give it a shot if it's easy to diagnose and fix. I don't know how to diagnose the heater element. A guy who knew electrical motors said it was so, I ordered it, and he was correct. At the time I had switched from 220v to 110v so that was a clue for him that I didn't have the correct element. Plus I think that the "start and then conk out" symptom was diagnostic, but I'm not sure. Maybe someone with electrical motor expertise will chime in. I'm as newb as you when it comes to electrical. Maybe google "electrical motor starts then shuts down". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh_bruno Posted September 30, 2023 Report Share Posted September 30, 2023 This is more for informational purposes for others looking up this information. I was also looking for the belt length info and found a page off an ebay doc that says, "V-belt with 58.310 inch outside circumference No. 560" https://www.ebay.com/itm/174840074737?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3D1164abd1f6124dd78feb109cbcbcce5c%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D311886544079%26itm%3D174840074737%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAuto&_trksid=p4429486.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A1748400747371164abd1f6124dd78feb109cbcbcce5c|enc%3AAQAIAAABUObhgc4Nk8%2BdtAwOww4FKLaj%2FQ5qqgDlQCuqZA43WcPFUWDERCUugbbOk7XQv0JXlBfqCg2xKF3WcPghxGMFw2oSlXvfExEaMYr7I7LmrHcP6czY1wIMt0ORyKiCWt95xldincyyBx3g%2BNDW%2B%2FhWUgTaBhK6xAm%2BJIbCOMehu%2Bdw7myVUeNX7HAjBBg901pVQcKXZQkz6HAs2qEQ8YbaVs6PIO2%2BUWFP4skL9OGB3wNSCIzOEDDsCSR1ve6OIdoxMUJIxuWhXZEpUV0ahfFoSFFG4JNyqIxS%2B9HAo%2FNI9O6EC70AqBdXYbpuAkZvjfplVpNLur9lwQ06foSW5T%2BoLwNFab4jttY%2FWB5SXxd9NaeAzQWdJSu1YvTDMYI7Y%2Fk9%2BiXn3UjYHzY%2BJZJZVvq%2F8XXwF7kwQ90ccWrDTEP8aUutwGDx6a7hMsRm8bRuidDk2Q%3D%3D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A4429486 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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