Crack fill/repair advice. Walnut slab

[arbiterr]

Hello everyone. I have this beautiful piece of a walnut slab that has a few small cracks. I need some advice on what would be the best choice and way to fill this. Currently, I have a Walnut wood filler and Epoxy resin. I have never worked with either and also do not have a flame torch for the Epoxy.  

With this wood, I will not be staining anything, but rather use an oil finish (tips on finish will be helpful too). I read about Danish oil and would love to know it anyone who worked with Watco's Natural danish oil knows if it's a clear coat or has a yellow tint to it? (since ill be using it on maple as well and prefer clear). 

So, will the wood filler look awkward on the slab once finished with oil?  I have a feeling epoxy will be a better option... would it be overkill for the small cracks?  is there a general rule on what to use based on the size of the cracks?

I have attached some pics. 

• Pics 1-3 are cracks on Face 1
• Pic 4-5 are cracks on Face 2
• Pic 6 is the end crack that goes through with Face 2 up. 
• Pic 7 is the filler and epoxy I have. 

Thanks. 

[AceHoleInOne]

Cracks near the knot. Make some small wedges from heart wood scraps. Work some glue in the cracks and apply some to the wedges and tap down. Cut the proud wedges to the surface then immediately machine sand smooth while the glue is still wet. The sanding dust will fill any voids between the wedges.

-Ace-  

[arbiterr]

I might not have walnut heartwood scraps, but I have regular scraps.. would that work?  I'm worried tapping in wedges might extend the crack. is it safe because of the high density of heartwood?

thanks for the reply. 

[AceHoleInOne]

1 minute ago, arbiterr said:

I might not have walnut heartwood scraps, but I have regular scraps.. would that work?  I'm worried tapping in wedges might extend the crack. is it safe because of the high density of heartwood?

thanks for the reply. 

You need to match the wood...like on like. Can't use sapwood to fill in heartwood and can't use heartwood to fill sapwood . Its a color thing. Don't worry, you're not going to make the crack any bigger. You're simply filling the crack with wood. The glue holds the wedge to the wood, not the pressure of driving the wedge deep into the crack.

-Ace- 

[Guest]

That end grain checking will likely spread.  Either inlay a butterfly or chop off the edge.

The cracks near the knot will probably spread too.  do what you can, be don't be surprised when they come back in a year. 

Not sure what you mean by "regular" scraps.  If it is brown, it is heartwood.  If is off white, it is sapwood.

 

[arbiterr]

Thanks Ace. I'll do that. 

and Thanks Mike. the end grain crack is small enough, chopping it off will work perfectly since I can use them for the wedges.  I confused heartwood with knot-area wood lol, my fault.  

 

Also guys, would Danish oil be any better for finishing compared to Tung oil? I'm using this slab as a console table. Local hardware stores have Watco Danish Oil and Minwax Tung oil protective finish. 

[Guest]

2 hours ago, arbiterr said:

Thanks Ace. I'll do that. 

and Thanks Mike. the end grain crack is small enough, chopping it off will work perfectly since I can use them for the wedges.  I confused heartwood with knot-area wood lol, my fault.  

 

Also guys, would Danish oil be any better for finishing compared to Tung oil? I'm using this slab as a console table. Local hardware stores have Watco Danish Oil and Minwax Tung oil protective finish. 

they both suck.  They are not durable and take forever to dry.   They are both a mixture of oil and varnish,  but give you the benefits if neither oil or varnish.  

Get minwax wipe on poly or general finishes arm r seal.   Apply 3 or 4 coats, following the directions on the can.  For a little more color, a coat of Boiled Linseed oil before the poly will help.   

[wtnhighlander]

Also, since the tung oil finish and danish oil both contain oil, they will 'yellow' the wood. This mellowing generally looks great on walnut, but like banana skin on maple. If you want a non-yellowing finish, use a water-borne poly, or lacquer. Both will dry waaaay faster than the oils, too.

[arbiterr]

On 12/1/2016 at 9:53 PM, wtnhighlander said:

Also, since the tung oil finish and danish oil both contain oil, they will 'yellow' the wood. This mellowing generally looks great on walnut, but like banana skin on maple. If you want a non-yellowing finish, use a water-borne poly, or lacquer. Both will dry waaaay faster than the oils, too.

2

Thanks, yellowing is one of my biggest concerns since I do have maple legs planned for this table. I will have to look into water based lacquer. 

On 12/1/2016 at 3:47 PM, Mike. said:

Get minwax wipe on poly or general finishes arm r seal.   Apply 3 or 4 coats, following the directions on the can.  For a little more color, a coat of Boiled Linseed oil before the poly will help.   

 

boiled linseed oil is weirdly hard to find in the hardware stores here for some reason, but I'm still searching.  A boiled linseed coat first before poly is what i will do with walnut. and for maple ill look for some water based coat that won't amber. 

What are all your views on Minwax Antique oil finish? A blog suggested it and I do see it in stores here. Is it a good finish or is it just a lazy find?

Thanks for the replies. 

[drzaius]

1 hour ago, arbiterr said:

Thanks, yellowing is one of my biggest concerns since I do have maple legs planned for this table. I will have to look into water based lacquer. 

Then you don't want to use BLO. It will really yellow things up.

[estesbubba]

1 hour ago, arbiterr said:

Thanks, yellowing is one of my biggest concerns since I do have maple legs planned for this table. I will have to look into water based lacquer. 

Garnet shellac then water based for the walnut and super blonde shellac then water based for the maple.  Skip the shellac on the maple if you want absolutely no coloring. 

[arbiterr]

Thanks for the help and advice guys, finished the project. I posted some pics in the showoff thread. 

Used wood filler, since the cracks were not too big.

This is Boiled Linseed oil application. Dried it for 10 days, wood was nice and dark by then.