Outfeed table


Robert Black

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So I recently upgraded from my $199 Ryobi table saw to a very nice Grizzly cabinet saw and decided that my first order of business was to make an outfeed table. But, I also wanted it to double as an assembly table.

I went back and forth a dozen times on design ideas, this being my first real project aside from some cutting boards and trinkets. At first I was going to do Marc's latest outfeed table, then I thought I'd do his latest assembly table. I had the hardest time on design ideas, not because I was stuck, but, because I had so many things I wanted to try! In the end, I went with my own base idea, mainly because I also wanted to try my hand at some different joinery techniques I've been wanting to try.

The base is regular ol' 2 X 4, planed and cleaned up a bit, with my first crack at mortise and tenons, then reinforced with some through dowels just for practice (it's clear I need it lol). The top, which I borrowed from Marc, is three layers of Baltic birch, framed in poplar. Everything is finished with several coats of armor seal.

It took me several weekends but I have to say I am thrilled with how it turned out. I learned so much from this project and it is perfectly functional to boot!

Can't wait to put it to work.

Thanks for looking,

Robert

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Shop project are a great way to try new joinery and finishing techniques.  I spent the first year of my woodworking hobbby building my shop and learned sho much in the process.  Great looking outfeed table.  Who says that shop furniture cant look good?  Keep at it.

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If your shop furniture looks like that your home furniture should be sweet :). I am interested by the doweling. I have only ever used dowels for draw bore but yours are near the edges rather than near the shoulder? How did you set that up?

Yeah, I thought about practicing the draw bore technique, but in the end, the through dowels were a last minute add-on after I had assembled the frame via mortise and tenon. As opposed to running the dowels perpendicular to the tenon as you would for a draw bore, these dowels run parallel with the tenon, centered in the tenon itself, just to give the soft wood joint more strength. There are two dowels in each long rail, and one in each short rail, spaced so the short rail support dowel is in between the space created through the two for the opposing long rail.

Thanks for the compliments!

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robert how do you feel about that saw any problems? does the riving knife stay lined up or do you have to buy a after market splitter or riving knife?

Duck, I love this saw. Of course, my only point of reference was a HD cheapie Ryobi. I had a hard time deciding between the 690 and this 1023 but I am completely satisfied.

No probs at all with alignment of the riving knife, my only criticism would be with the router table wing. I will end up purchasing a dedicated router table at some point.

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