Help needed with Table Saw


JoshC1501

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I posted awhile back that I got adjusted the blade on my table saw parallel to the mitre slot, and that I got it as close as I could. I decided close enough wasn't good for me.

Basically it is off by close to 1/32" front to back. I bought this saw back in April used it is an early 90's Delta Tilting Arbor Saw Model 36-750. It is essentially a contractor saw in a cabinet. The trunnions must be adjusted as opposed to the top. Based upon the limited information I have found online, it appears to be a common problem with these saws. I really didn't know what to look for when I bought it.

I like the saw, it has a nice rip fence, table is flat, and has a sliding mitre table attachment which is great for crosscutting.

Even with all 4 bolts loose and the trunnions pushed as far as they can go in opposite directions there is still a difference slightly smaller than a 1/64". When I tighten the bolts down that grows to around 1/32" maybe a little less. From my understanding that is just too big of a gap. I am really far away from the .003 number I have seen tossed around.

I don't see how this could be possible. Would it come that out of whack from the factory that there isn't enough play in the holes on the trunnions to make the adjustment or is something else wrong? Could the arbor be bent? The blade appears to be running true.

Any ideas would be appreciated and I guess what are the consequences of using it as such? Could I just ensure the rip fence is parallel to the blade rather than the mitre slot. I currently don't use the mitre slots. I can get square cross cuts by adjusting the fence on the sliding mitre table 90 degrees to the blade. I would like to build a cross cut sled for smaller pieces but unless I can get this adjustment figured out or build the sled to work on the sliding mitre table I might have to scrap that idea.

Looking for whatever input I can get. How to fix or work arounds for the short term? A new or lightly used cabinet saw is in the future, but I have other tool needs and it would be great if I could get some use out of this one awhile.

Thanks

Josh

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It might be flaws in the holes restricting the adjustment. Careful inspection and possibly drilling out the holes very slightly may help.

Or use a hand reamer to clean up the the openings that might do the trick on roughly finished castings. Be careful, slip or get carried away and you could ruin a part that may be hard to get and expensive.

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Josh, it wouldn't surprise me if it came from the factory that way. Unless you go to the trouble of reworking the holes in the trunnion, you may just have to adjust your fence to the blade and forget the miter slots.

I have been working around it for some time now and it is working. I am getting square crosscut and no burning. I guess my question is, are there any safety concerns by doing this as long as I don't use the mitre slots?

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If this is a saw that the motor hangs out the back on, PALS probably makes a kit to fit it.  Sounds like you will still need to lengthen the trunnion holes with a die grinder though.

Thanks for the PALS suggestion. At this point I don't think I am going to put the time into messing with it. I am getting good results with the setup. I was mostly worried about possible safety concerns. I should be a in a position to upgrade to a cabinet saw early next year.

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  • 7 years later...

I have a mid 90's Delta model 36-750 tilting arbor saw equipped with a 2 HP, 3450 rpm, 115/220 volt motor running on 220.  I need to check the run capasitor but the numbers are rusted over due to the placement of a foam spacer placed in manufacturing.  Is there any way to find what run capasitor it came equipped with?

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