Maumee Mike Posted July 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 The black one is T1 and the white one is T3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Lots better... I can read the control block just fine... Thanks, that helps a lot... One thing... hate to ask... I can't read the safety block at all. I also can't follow the black leads -- they disappear into the shadows as they drop into the box.... Is there any way to get a stop or two more range? Maybe a flash, or perhaps and angled shop lite to rake across and illuminate the shadows? If you can't do it with the camera, can you do it post -- like Photoshop's highlight/shadow adjustment... or Lightroom's exposure control... I also need to know the safety block terminal labels -- can't read them at all... It's the first place we'll start and I've only the block schematic from the mfg which uses terminal labels, not positions on the block... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tpt life Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 They look raised, could try raking a pencil across as well to highlight the raised lettering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maumee Mike Posted July 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 the labels are from right to left 95-96-97-98 the 3 black leads one goes into the power cord ( temporarily so we could jump to the motor ) the other two go to the motor and the bin vacuum motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 ==>bin vacuum motor Ahhh. That explains the other lead... Did you wire the vac or did Oneida? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maumee Mike Posted July 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Oneida wired it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Just gota ask -- you purchased the controls and cyclone as a package directly from Oneida all at the same time? The controls are dated 2007 --- I used the Internet Archive to pull the 2006, 2007 and 2008 Oneida website, service documents and product catalogs to find a wiring diagram for this bad boy – but these controls are not referenced in any product literature from that era… It's probably a one-off configuration -- some sort of special sale running? It's no big problem, it's just the controls are wired in a way I would not have expected --- it would have been nice to have the original wiring diagram… Another idea, you don't still happen have the original service manual supplied with the system? If you're setup is anything like mine, Oneida included the detailed wring schematic for the setup --- including purchased options... Essentially, the 'as built' electrics for your DC... Glad we caught the drum vac option before spending time rewiring the controls... This is the first place we should have started looking… These bad boys are flaky --- Oneida stopped supplying them quite some time ago. If the vac line is clogged, or the vac filter is clogged, or you forget to change the filter annually or just about any other failure mode ---- the pump will overheat and trip the safety relay. It usually takes a few minutes for the vacuum pump to overheat and this lines-up against your timing rather nicely… It could also explain the 16.5a set-point. It was hard for me to believe that Oneida would supply controls set with a set-point that far out of range. Even so, they should have set it for 14a, so it’s still a bit of an anomaly. Let’s not fuss with the controls. Open the vac box and unplug the vacuum pump. Re-hookup the controls and run the system... About 50/50 that it’s the vac setup – these are handy to have, but flakey as Hell… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maumee Mike Posted July 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 Triple after disconnecting the vacuum pump and reconnecting the remote the system has been running for 25 minutes looks like you have successfully diagnosed the problem since Oneida has discontinued supplying this pump am I correct in assuming that it is not needed? or do they have a different model again thanks a million for your help in this as I stated earlier Oneida was little to no help without your help who knows how much money could have been wasted if you are ever in nw Ohio dinner drinks are on me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trip Posted July 12, 2014 Report Share Posted July 12, 2014 ==>looks like you have successfully diagnosed the problem To manage cost, non-industrial solutions tend to wire 'options' into the control relay... So when an option goes-south, it can take the entire system down... That's why you start with add-ons when troubleshooting control systems... In an industrial setting, the master control relay would trigger a series of 'option' relays. This would isolate the options from the main controls, so the failure of an option wouldn't automatically take-out the DC itself... I've got a lot of options in my setup, so I wired-in a single option relay to keep the options isolated from the main controls... I think the total cost was about $75. If you ever got more options, I'll send you a wiring diagram... ==>Oneida has discontinued supplying this pump am I correct in assuming that it is not needed? They stopped supplying the kit for exactly the reason you experienced... The vac system itself isn't a bad idea, but it's got to be maintained -- change the filters, check the lines, etc... There were complaints into Oneida exactly like yours -- hard to diagnose, time consuming to troubleshoot, annoying, etc.. If you change the vacuum filters, blow-out the vacuum lines, etc that'll fix about 99% of vac system problems... Just clean-it-up and plug-it-in directly into the 220v and see that it no longer overheats... You'll be good-to-go... BTW: the vacuum pump will run 'warm', but should not run 'hot'... You can also monitor it with you ammeter -- record the initial amps, then watch it. If it rises, you've confirmed the diagnosis... Oneida now supplies a low-tech solution. I tried to paste a link, but the forum editor won't take it... Go to Oneida's site and look for bin/bag hold downs. The solution works quite well... No electrics required. BTW: you can get a replacement vac pump for about $35... Good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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