Cliff Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I wouldn't tell anyone that... Naa. I can't be the only person to make such a dumb error. And I'll make dumber errors I'm sure. I have that talent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I'm no expert but if your chip breaker fits through your mouth, it may be a bit too open I don't think it's adjustable though so I'm not sure how to resolve that. I also flattened the sole through the grits. It was pretty flat already so I'm not sure I did more than polish it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Cancelleri Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I don't think it's adjustable though so I'm not sure how to resolve that. I also flattened the sole through the grits. It was pretty flat already so I'm not sure I did more than polish it. You can adjust the mouth opening by moving the frog forward. Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardA Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I don't think it's adjustable though so I'm not sure how to resolve that. I also flattened the sole through the grits. It was pretty flat already so I'm not sure I did more than polish it. It is adjustable... But it's done by moving the frog.. Forward closes the mouth a bit, and the reverse opens the mouth! Finding that sweet spot takes practice, lots of practice! Don't give up, just practice more. Record what you do, and the result, and Practice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Hand planes do take some messing around to get to where they need to be for proper work. Could be a simple adjustment, or just more knowledge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I thought mine was running ok, you guys disagree? I get great shavings, and to be honest, I'm sorta using my plane as a jointer at the moment, not necessarily a smoother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CStanford Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 You don't have to use the sole of a plane to transfer its flatness (or lack thereof) to a workpiece. You can use a shorter plane and simply test the surface with a straightedge removing humps until the surface tests true to the straightedge. Done. You decide the level of accuracy you require and obtain or make a straightedge to suit. It's faster to use longer planes, but you don't have to. Find high spot, plane high spot. Move to the next high spot until there are no more high spots -- no light under the straightedge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 You don't have to use the sole of a plane to transfer its flatness (or lack thereof) to a workpiece. You can use a shorter plane and simply test the surface with a straightedge removing humps until the surface tests true to the straightedge. Done. You decide the level of accuracy you require and obtain or make a straightedge to suit. It's faster to use longer planes, but you don't have to. Find high spot, plane high spot. Move to the next high spot until there are no more high spots -- no light under the straightedge. That's definitely my goal here. Learn to make due to with what I got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CStanford Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 I've done a few of these, folks seem to love them, this one took a fairly easy twenty hours from a dead start with rough lumber and all hand tools:http://s804.photobucket.com/user/charli ... Commission If I owned redundant handplanes, scads of saws, etc. it would have taken double the amount of time. I hand milled the lumber, cut the dovetails, and glued both drawers in about three hours and this is slow by period standards I'm pretty sure. The apron and drawer fronts are from one board for grain match. The board was ripped and re-glued leaving the drawer fronts out. The drawers are of typical British construction with slips. I used hot hide glue the whole way to keep things moving along briskly. It is difficult to keep things moving using PVA glue. Once you get the hang of the glue pot and learn to manage the initial tack of hot glue to your advantage things can proceed with a little pace to them. Barely $500 dollar's worth of tools were used and most of this total is in the Record 405 I used to cut the grooves in the breadboard ends. The dovetails were cut with a Lynx gent's saw that cost about $30. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewyo Posted July 6, 2015 Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Cliff, It appears you have that lever cap in the released position. Loosen the screw which holds it down until you can snap down that lever with just moderate pressure. Disregard the above if I'm misinterpreting your photo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cliff Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2015 Cliff, It appears you have that lever cap in the released position. Loosen the screw which holds it down until you can snap down that lever with just moderate pressure. Disregard the above if I'm misinterpreting your photo. Thanks! You are entirely correct. And I had no idea about the screw being loose enough to push the lever down. But I knew the lever was supposed to be down and forgot. I've done a few of these, folks seem to love them, this one took a fairly easy twenty hours from a dead start with rough lumber and all hand tools:http://s804.photobucket.com/user/charli ... Commission If I owned redundant handplanes, scads of saws, etc. it would have taken double the amount of time. I hand milled the lumber, cut the dovetails, and glued both drawers in about three hours and this is slow by period standards I'm pretty sure. The apron and drawer fronts are from one board for grain match. The board was ripped and re-glued leaving the drawer fronts out. The drawers are typically British construction with slips. I used hot hide glue the whole way to keep things moving along briskly. It is difficult to keep things moving using PVA glue. Once you get the hang of the glue pot and learn to manage the initial tack of hot glue to your advantage things can proceed with a little pace to them. Barely $500 dollars worth of tools were used and most of this total is in the Record 405 I used to cut the grooves in the breadboard ends. The dovetails were cut with a Lynx gent's saw that cost about $30. That would have taken me 6 months and turned out looking nothing like that. Beatiful man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CStanford Posted July 7, 2015 Report Share Posted July 7, 2015 Based on this book, I'm still slow: http://www.thebestthings.com/books/1772pricebook.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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