Milling up some ash


Jim DaddyO

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I finally got around to putting some more woodworking footage together. I am enjoying using some hand tools, but the power tools are nice too. I am making a series of 3 boxes, sized to fit photos, for presents. These are preparing the top and bottom panels for them. I do lots of my initial work with hand tools. Breaking down the rough sizes and getting a clean edge to go up against the fence of the table saw. Maybe some day I will get good enough to do it all by hand, but flattening a whole face, particularly in ash, is a lot of work and I don’t have the time or material to experiment. I am using the BLO and Bees Wax for finish again. I love the way it makes the wood look. 

 

 

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May I recommend a table saw sled somewhat like this one instead of using the fence for cutting the panels to length.

 

Tablesawsled001_zpsed2656b4.jpg

 

I was so worried that you were going to get kick-back from running the stock between the blade and the fence as you showed in the video. It is bad enough when ripping but, when cross cutting it is dangerous unless you use a miter gauge and a spacer block on the fence or a larger sled to allow room for movement of the stock.

 

Rog

 

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Thanks Roger, I initially thought of using my sled.  I was extremely cautious making the cut.  My saw top is well waxed and the wood does not want to bind or twist.  I have a 12" Bosch Glide Mitre saw on the way that will make this job a breeze in the future.

The blo and bees wax is my second time putting it on ash, so I knew what I would get.  I have also put it on maple, but not the extremely pale stuff Eric.  I will try to keep that in mind for future reference though, thanks for the tip.

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Careful with that BLO on a white wood like ash, Jim.  You may very well end up with a banana.  I poo-pooed the "yellowing myth" of BLO until I put it on my maple workbench.  Fugly.  It's mellowing with age finally, but initially...fugly.

Need to hang a grow-light over the bench to speed up the UV action? ?
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I got some more video of the trio of box builds edited today.  I took some time to figure out how to get the ends of the finger joints flush with hand tools.  It took a bit of time but I got it and then got the tops separated off them.  I really am enjoying the look of the wood coming off the plane in comparison to sanding.

 

 

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Careful with that BLO on a white wood like ash, Jim.  You may very well end up with a banana.  I poo-pooed the "yellowing myth" of BLO until I put it on my maple workbench.  Fugly.  It's mellowing with age finally, but initially...fugly.

If you want a great oil look without the yellowing, mineral oil might do the trick. Don't buy from a woodworking supply or big box though or you will pay through the nose.  It's about a buck a bottle at the pharmacy.

You can blend with bees wax too if you want that feel.

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Only problem with mineral oil is that it has to be refreshed really often.  I use it on my cutting boards and after a few months they're basically "dry" looking, even if I haven't used them.  Bone dry.  I can't imagine mineral oil evaporates...but it goes somewhere.

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Only problem with mineral oil is that it has to be refreshed really often.  I use it on my cutting boards and after a few months they're basically "dry" looking, even if I haven't used them.  Bone dry.  I can't imagine mineral oil evaporates...but it goes somewhere.

Mom use to give us that crap when I was a kid. I can tell where it goes?

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Thank you very much for this video on one safety aspect of using a table saw.

I don't mean to sound like the "Wood working safety police" but, if you are going to post videos and people watch them, they tend to do as they see without thinking about it. I won't comment on not having a blade guard on because I don't use mine either. :)

Everyone talks about Saw Stop being the end all for table saw safety but, even they don't address the kick-back issue. I got a kick-back when ripping a warped board a few years ago. Part of the board kicked back and hit me square in the gut hard enough to buckle my knees and as I fell forward, my thumb hit the blade. It took some meat and a bit of nail off of my right thumb and as I was kneeling on the floor from the hit, I saw all the blood and thought I had been impaled by a spear of pine!

I was taken to the emergency room by my wife and every doctor I saw reminded me of "The NEW saw" that was out now! 

My thumb healed nicely and I have no problems at all with it but, I still have a scar on my belly from the bruise and broken skin of the kick-back. Now I have learned to stand to the left of the saw blade when ripping or any cutting for that matter. As a matter of fact, I've had kick-backs since then and have a dent in a wall to prove it! That is more scary than the possibility of cutting off a finger due to lack of a blade guard in my opinion.

 

Rog

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Ok, now I see one advantage to a 1.5 hp saw vs. larger. At least for ripping longer boards. I can hold a board well enough to stall the blade, rather than have it kick back.

I don't even think it has that much power.  1987 Craftsman contractor saw with direct drive.  The blades mount right on to the motor shaft.

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