Sanding about 1000 ft of mostly baseboard and some paneling .. Festool RTS 400 EQ?


bushwacked

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Still working on the remodel so that is one reason I have been gone from here for awhile ...

 

Now that most of the work is done, would this be a good sander to use? My baseboards are 6" high so my 150/3 will not work with them.

http://www.amazon.com/Festool-RTS-400-EQ-Orbital/dp/B004W1YPYA

 

Are there any other options that would work just as good? My main concern is dust control as I have a pregnant wife and 17 month old living in the renovation as well on the 2nd floor.

 

 

 

Thoughts? Thanks! 

To give you an idea .. This part of a wall in the master bedroom.

4e9138abc98cb3af8931fd2e34b13842.jpg

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3 minutes ago, TIODS said:

Drum sander comes to mind..  If you're just looking for a new sander, the 150/5 would get it.

They are nailed to the wall already ... I am sanding off the wood filler extra that is covering the nail holes along with just getting any last nibs standing up.

 

150/5 is too big. at 6" my 150/3 is jammed in there and bangs up the floor and moulding 

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A tiny FT product just seems overkill!  What will you use it for after this molding is done?  I guess if it were my house, I'd protect the floor with cardboard and use the sander in the open areas and hand sand in the tight areas.

 

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4 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

150/5 is too big. at 6" my 150/3 is jammed in there and bangs up the floor and moulding 

I think the RTS 400 would do the job, but I think the better choice would be the RO 90.  It will not be jammed in there as you mentioned, plus if you need to get aggressive you have the Rotex mode and the delta pad to get into corners.

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A tiny FT product just seems overkill!  What will you use it for after this molding is done?  I guess if it were my house, I'd protect the floor with cardboard and use the sander in the open areas and hand sand in the tight areas.

 

Hmmmm not sure what else I would use it for though.

Curious what you used to fill the nail holes. That job is a hand sand job. 

Elmers wood filler ... Hand sand eh? Not what I wanted to hear haha

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Just now, bushwacked said:

Elmers wood filler ... Hand sand eh? Not what I wanted to hear haha

Now, if you just wanna sell the wife on a new tool, speak up and I'll wipe out all the previous replies and we'll pump up what every you're after ;)

 

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10 minutes ago, shaneymack said:

 

If you want a festool sander to sand molding in place this is the one you want.

 

https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=567850

 

All sorts of different profiles for it and they sell a kit that you can custom make your own profile.

 

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

This is a good option, but is the only Festool I ever returned, I just didn't think it worked very well for my needs.  The additional pads can add up.

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I know it's too late for your current project but I learned to sand all the flat trim in the shop before installing it. The profiled moulded trim gets sanded with a flap wheel mop on a drill ( I use a cheap air drill to power it )  Then I nail with my 23 gauge trim gun and a thin line of adhesive. Tiny holes mean tiny easy to sand fill spots by hand. If you are painting I learned to prime before caulking or filling holes. Caulk sticks to primed wood and nail holes are easy to see and fill. Then a light hand sanding over all the surfaces gives a much better appearance to the final paint surface.

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9 hours ago, TIODS said:

Now, if you just wanna sell the wife on a new tool, speak up and I'll wipe out all the previous replies and we'll pump up what every you're after ;)

 

haha I wish ... with the 2nd baby coming in about 2 months she would kill me if I got this just to add to the collection and didnt direly need it to finish and it was the only solution.

8 hours ago, Andy Wright said:

I would just go buy the Ryobi version of that sander for $19.97 and knock it out in a few hours. It will be better than sanding by hand and at that price you wont feel guilty if it never gets used again

Ryobi 1.2 Amp Corner Cat Sander

 

 

now this is something I may try ... for $20 it should get me very close to what I want I may try it out

8 hours ago, shaneymack said:

 

If you want a festool sander to sand molding in place this is the one you want.

 

https://www.festool.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=567850

 

All sorts of different profiles for it and they sell a kit that you can custom make your own profile.

 

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk

I am doing the molding by hand .. just seems quicker? I dont know ... maybe that is just me being crazy

6 hours ago, wdwerker said:

I know it's too late for your current project but I learned to sand all the flat trim in the shop before installing it. The profiled moulded trim gets sanded with a flap wheel mop on a drill ( I use a cheap air drill to power it )  Then I nail with my 23 gauge trim gun and a thin line of adhesive. Tiny holes mean tiny easy to sand fill spots by hand. If you are painting I learned to prime before caulking or filling holes. Caulk sticks to primed wood and nail holes are easy to see and fill. Then a light hand sanding over all the surfaces gives a much better appearance to the final paint surface.

dang it Steve ,,, where were you like 9 months ago when I came up with this crazy plan to remodel and go about finishing it all off the complete opposite of what you recommend? I blame you ;) 

Ya I used my 18 gauge to nail. I am painting it all so I guess I jumped the gun on that too with the wood filler and sanding.

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Yeah, the 18G will just about fill with paint. Steve nailed the typical dead on. The painters go behind the trimmers with primer. They drop blue chalk into spackle for pin pricks (easier to find when sanding) and roll easy sand latex putty into stick to hold in their hand. The putty tends to run yellow. The time is all in the filling. Hand sanding takes no longer than nib knockdown between coats. Sorry that came late. 

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33 minutes ago, bushwacked said:

no worries ... learning lots from all of this. So next time the wife wants a new house and says lets just update a "wall or 2" I know that means a full gut and to go hire me some people haha 

One other pointer is that you don't have to sand to perfection until after the primer coat. Sand down any "bad spots" with 120, then prime with oil based primer. Primer is easier to sand than wood, and it will fill small imperfections like the sanding marks from the 120. Primer will also highlight any other imperfections so that you can go back over them with putty/caulk as needed.

In other words don't worry about perfection until after the primer is on. Once the primer dries then you can address any problem areas and go over the trim with 220 grit to get it smooth as a baby's butt and and ready for paint.

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Grex sells a 23 gauge pin nailer that shoots up to 2" nails. It's about $ 330 but it has saved me so much time. It has a replacable plastic no mark tip and I use it to hang trim I finished in the shop. Colored putty or wax sticks make the tiny holes disappear. 

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