Boeshield t9 - Tacky surface


adkinsjd

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I recently cleaned some minor rust stains off of my new-to-me table saw. I put some boeshield t9 on the surface, but it appears fairly tacky to the touch. I've read a few older posts, and it seems the recommendation is to apply some type of wax to reduce the friction.

Until I can get my hands on some wax, should I try to buff out the boeshield and apply a thinner layer? Top coat with pledge or WD40?

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I would not use wd-40 until you have wax to create a barrier (i.e. wax) between the saws top and the wood or you chance oil residue on your wood so removing the T9 or not you are going to need wax, I think wax is just as important as the blade you put in your saw. Just get get either a floor wax like Johnsons or something like renaissance wax and you will be all set just make sure you don't use automotive wax. The T9 is tacky but once you put a topcoat of wax or two it will be smooth as can be.

Nate

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Nate,

I need to use some wax myself and I was thinking a good automotive paste wax. What's the thinking?

Also when you say 'floor wax', is that just the good ol' stuff mom used to pour out and spread around on the tile floor and leave to dry?

Thanks

Tim

The thinking is that most auto waxes contain silicon which could possibly be absorbed by the wood and cause finishing problems later. Whether that's an old wives tale or not is a whole 'nother subject that's been debated loudly and long.... :wacko:

Just to be safe, you can stick with any of the good paste waxes(not liquid floor wax) like Johnson's, Briwax or Renaissance. Johnson's you can find at your local grocery or hardware store, the hardware store might have the Briwax as well. Or you can order from Amazon, Highland, Woodcraft or any of a number of online stores.

The biggest thing to remember when using paste wax is that a little goes a long way and the less you use the less you'll have to buff off to get a smooth surface. Personally, I mainly use the Renaissance wax, it's pricey but seems to last longer than the less expensive products. Just don't smear on a thick layer and walk off, keep it thin, rub it in with some pressure and buff it out immediately. Don't ask how I know this.... :rolleyes:

HTH,

Bill

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I recently cleaned some minor rust stains off of my new-to-me table saw. I put some boeshield t9 on the surface, but it appears fairly tacky to the touch. I've read a few older posts, and it seems the recommendation is to apply some type of wax to reduce the friction.

Until I can get my hands on some wax, should I try to buff out the boeshield and apply a thinner layer? Top coat with pledge or WD40?

Like Scott said, I think you have too thick of a coat. I apply it, then wipe it off. If I am storing tools for a while, I will spray on the T9 and not wipe it off. Then, when I need to use it, I just spray on some more, then wipe it off. For a really slick surface, I use wax over T9.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I recently cleaned some minor rust stains off of my new-to-me table saw. I put some boeshield t9 on the surface, but it appears fairly tacky to the touch. I've read a few older posts, and it seems the recommendation is to apply some type of wax to reduce the friction.

Until I can get my hands on some wax, should I try to buff out the boeshield and apply a thinner layer? Top coat with pledge or WD40?

Turtle wax is good. I think most automotive waxes are. Boeshield is designed to be difficult to remove, I don't know if it is the best thing for a saw table. Boelube, is basically cetyl alcohol, you can buy a lifetime supply of that for fairly cheap from most chemical companies.

I use MustforRust, to remove rust and treat the surface on iron and steel tools, and have very good luck with that.

I don't think floor wax will do what you want.

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