Wiring Question...

[WizardJ]

So my shop don't currently have power and I'm wanting to run new lines out to it. I don't know anything about electrical but based on what I figured out at home depot, I need UF-B 12 AMP 2 Conductor with ground. Does anyone know if that sounds right? or am I on the right track?

Thanks for any help

[PaulMarcel]

There are lots of electrical dudes here so you'll likely get a good answer, but from what I know, we'll need more details. So here goes:

1) how many circuits are you going to have out there?

2) how far is it to your shop from the service panel that will feed it?

3) all 110V? any 220V?

"UF" is Underground Feeder meaning it can be buried in various ways. "12 AMP"... i think you mean 12 gauge, which would be a pretty limited size over a significant distance with tool loads. "2 conductor" implies you are running a single 110V circuit or single 220V circuit. You'd need 3 to create both.

I think I can say that regardless, you'll want a subpanel. Run heavier gauge wire like 6 ga conductors from the service panel to the sub then wire your shop from the sub with your own breakers in there. The subpanel and breakers are relatively inexpensive. The 6 ga wire kinda pricy ($1.80/ft) but once in the shop, it's short run conductors.

After your answers, you'll get better responses.

[WizardJ]

There are lots of electrical dudes here so you'll likely get a good answer, but from what I know, we'll need more details. So here goes:

1) how many circuits are you going to have out there?

not really sure on this

2) how far is it to your shop from the service panel that will feed it?

about 100ft

3) all 110V? any 220V?

as of now just 110V.

"UF" is Underground Feeder meaning it can be buried in various ways. "12 AMP"... i think you mean 12 gauge, which would be a pretty limited size over a significant distance with tool loads. "2 conductor" implies you are running a single 110V circuit or single 220V circuit. You'd need 3 to create both.

I think I can say that regardless, you'll want a subpanel. Run heavier gauge wire like 6 ga conductors from the service panel to the sub then wire your shop from the sub with your own breakers in there. The subpanel and breakers are relatively inexpensive. The 6 ga wire kinda pricy ($1.80/ft) but once in the shop, it's short run conductors.

After your answers, you'll get better responses.

There is a old small electrical box in the shop, looks like it only feeds a couple outlets, so I will probably need to add more.

[Richard Link]

So my shop don't currently have power and I'm wanting to run new lines out to it. I don't know anything about electrical but based on what I figured out at home depot, I need UF-B 12 AMP 2 Conductor with ground. Does anyone know if that sounds right? or am I on the right track?

Thanks for any help

Hmm...just my gut reaction but learning the ins and outs of electrical wiring at home depot sounds a bit dangerous. I'm all for do it yourself but draw the line at line voltage power. Might be wise to just hire a pro for that one. You've got a lot of code issues to deal with and mistakes with electrical wiring can be costly. With all of that said, I would also strongly recommend that you consider sending at least a couple of 220V lines out to the shop. Almost a guarantee that you will want 220V at some point in the future and its better to wire it all at one time if possible.

[Vic]

I'm with RoboDoc. I did my own work taking a subpanel out to my old shop. But, I have an electrician friend who spec'd everything out for me. I was only taking 60amps out to the new subpanel. I buried it 3 feet deep with "live electric" tape one foot above that. It one black, one red, one white and one green of 6 gauge wire in grey PVC conduit pipe. My run was only about 50 feet. You may a larger gauge for that distance. Seek out a professional.

[TomP]

You can probably run 220 to the shop, that way it is there and then branch off of that to your breakers. I would replace the sub panel with at least 100amp service, that will give you some extra space to add on. I would also check my town codes. You can do it yourself but you should do it by code. Thats just my 2 cents

[kesac]

So my shop don't currently have power and I'm wanting to run new lines out to it. I don't know anything about electrical but based on what I figured out at home depot, I need UF-B 12 AMP 2 Conductor with ground. Does anyone know if that sounds right? or am I on the right track?

Thanks for any help

You need to run 220 out there, or you will be severely limited. If you have to ask questions like that, you need to get some one to help you more than you can get online.

You will need to pass a building inspection, for your own self assurance.

[ssrt3]

ok i am a electrician, what i would do in your case is get someone to help (no offence) if your going to do any kind of work you will need 220, run a sub-panel in your shop 100amp service min, 32 space panel just a tip put it in conduit the pipe for 2 1/2" is cheap use it and long sweep 90s, i am here if you have any questions.

Good luck on your shop

[DALSAW]

On my shop I ran an UF8-2 on a 30 amp breaker and a UF10-2 on a 20 amp breaker, through an 2 1/2" conduit the 8-2 handles my outlets, and the 10-2 handles my lighting. The only downside no 220. But if your wanting a easy way to wire your shop that would be it. No sub-panels and fancy wiring and you can always upgrade later. Oh and sence my Bld isn't on a perm foundation, I didn't have to have an inspection but you need to check with your local building inspector just to be shure.

[WoodClips]

On my shop I ran an UF8-2 on a 30 amp breaker and a UF10-2 on a 20 amp breaker, through an 2 1/2" conduit the 8-2 handles my outlets, and the 10-2 handles my lighting.

You may want to swap out your 30 amp breaker for a 20 amp breaker. Assuming you have 15 or 20 amp receptacles on this circuit, this is definitely not up to code. Here's the scenario: something you have plugged into a 20 amp receptacle malfunctions and draws more than the 20 amp rating on the receptacle. The breaker doesn't trip because it is rated 30 amps. The receptacle overheats and starts on fire. The National Electric Code will allow you to put 15 or 20 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit, but above that, the receptacle rating can't be lower than the rating of the circuit. This is why everyone ends up installing sub-panels, because you probably need more than 20 amps and don't want to run a whole bunch separate circuits out to the shop.

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician, and I honestly wouldn't recommend relying on any advice you get off the internet (including mine) for something that could put your property and lives at risk.

Rory

[DALSAW]

You may want to swap out your 30 amp breaker for a 20 amp breaker. Assuming you have 15 or 20 amp receptacles on this circuit, this is definitely not up to code. Here's the scenario: something you have plugged into a 20 amp receptacle malfunctions and draws more than the 20 amp rating on the receptacle. The breaker doesn't trip because it is rated 30 amps. The receptacle overheats and starts on fire. The National Electric Code will allow you to put 15 or 20 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit, but above that, the receptacle rating can't be lower than the rating of the circuit. This is why everyone ends up installing sub-panels, because you probably need more than 20 amps and don't want to run a whole bunch separate circuits out to the shop.

Disclaimer: I'm not an electrician, and I honestly wouldn't recommend relying on any advice you get off the internet (including mine) for something that could put your property and lives at risk.

Rory

I probably should have mentioned that all of my machines are run on 30 amp twist-loc receptacles, but I do have 3 20 amp receptacles but they run off of the 20 amp lighting circuit. But thanks for your concern.

[WoodClips]

I probably should have mentioned that all of my machines are run on 30 amp twist-loc receptacles, but I do have 3 20 amp receptacles but they run off of the 20 amp lighting circuit. But thanks for your concern.

Ah, okay. That makes sense. Sorry for the false alarm. It isn't too often you hear about people upgrading to 30 amp plugs and receptacles vs. rewiring everything for 220V, so I was just assuming standard 20A outlets.