Finish for shop cabinets

[jbeilmann]

I recently built a large storage / miter saw cabinet out of 3/4 birch ply and was wondering what would be a good, simple finish that could be applied in one coat and provide some protection and show the woodgrain. Any suggestions?

[AMarshall]

For shop cabinets I have been pleased with a simple wiping varnish. I have used Minwax wipe-on poly or gone homemade by using 50/50 poly and mineral spirits. The only thing is you will likely want at least 2 coats, maybe 3 to get some decent protection. The beauty of this finish for shop stuff is that you can just apply with a rag and it won't drip or sag.

You could always just go with undiluted poly for a one-coat finish, but then you are brushing which is slower.

[Richard Link]

I recently built a large storage / miter saw cabinet out of 3/4 birch ply and was wondering what would be a good, simple finish that could be applied in one coat and provide some protection and show the woodgrain. Any suggestions?

For a shop cabinet made of birch ply, most would recommend just putting on a coat or two of wiping polyurethane for durability. Pretty cheap and easy to apply.

An alternative, which is even easier is to simply spray lacquer (i.e. the Deft variety). The nice thing about the lacquer option is that you can buy a can or two of the spray for under 6 bucks each and spray on 3 or 4 coats in a couple of hours. Looks great, is essentially clear and has a nice feel. Almost no effort and idiot proof as the lacquer coats melt into each other and leave no streaks. No need to sand in between coats. Just run an abrasive pad over the last coat to take off any dust nibs, etc. Not quite as durable and water resistant as poly, though.

[Vic]

I prefer to hit everything in the shop with a 3lb cut of shellac. That way, as I put wear and tear on things, I can just do a quick sanding and reapply. But, even with this, I usually end up with 3 coats before I'm done. But, being shop cabinets, I don't get too anal about the look of the finish..I just slop it on.

[Rutabagared]

I'd consider paste wax. It doesn't get much simpler and it protects well against moisture with a single coat. I've used it on shop cabinets and jigs for years and it's kept both stable over time. You don't need more unless you anticipate the surface getting wet.

Joe

[Dan S]

+1 on the wipe on poly.

Don't pay for the pre-mixed stuff, it's a waste of money. Buy regular poly and cut it with 50% MS. Depending on the brand, you can apply 2 or 3 coats in a day.

[Sac]

+1 on the wipe on poly.

Don't pay for the pre-mixed stuff, it's a waste of money. Buy regular poly and cut it with 50% MS. Depending on the brand, you can apply 2 or 3 coats in a day.

What he said...

[jHop]

I second the wax for the top. It helped with glue cleanup recently. (Although I haven't finished the rest of the project: too close to a constantly running furnace.)

[Vic]

Yes, wax for any surface you will be running wood across or using to glue up. I do that in addition to the shellac. I just use regular old Johnson's Paste Wax.

[Mister Pants]

I generaly use whatever old wipe on varnish I have kicking around. Usually some Armor-Seal that's getting long in the tooth or that's been contaminated for some reason, if I don't have any I've got an old can of minwax that I'll usually make a blend with some BLO. For my workbench I just use BLO and hit it with wax after it's dried as much as it will. Like Vic I use Johnson's paste wax for wood surfaces that have wood running across it. For my iron surfaces though I break the bank and use Ren wax, I find it does a better job, especially for giving me time to mop up my sweat than Johnson's does.