Dewalt vs. Milwaukee

[wdwerker]

Lion batteries that are rated at 3.7 volts will read 4.3 volts when fully charged . They will drop below 3.7 before the protection circut cuts in and you need to recharge. So voltage claims are somewhat variable or an average . The amount of power in the battery is rated in milliamperes .

[Tom Cancelleri]

Lion batteries that are rated at 3.7 volts will read 4.3 volts when fully charged . They will drop below 3.7 before the protection circut cuts in and you need to recharge. So voltage claims are somewhat variable or an average . The amount of power in the battery is rated in milliamperes .

What Steve said.

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[wdwerker]

Here is a picture of a couple of the Li ion batteries I use in my super bright LED flashlight. They are 2 different examples of standard cells that are joined to make most of the battery packs in our cordless tools these days. 

The 18650 holds almost double the power that the 17670 does. The PCB is a tiny round protection circut that keeps the battery from dangerously discharging too fast or charging too fast and overheating. They use special equipment to weld straps connecting cells like these into groups that make up the battery packs for cordless tools. Usually the protection circut is added to the whole group, if it goes out the battery is useless.

My guess is 3 cells X 4.3 v= 12.9 volts and that's what Bosch calls 12v Max. So 5 cells X 4.3v= 21.5 volts and calling it 20 volt isn't outrageous.                     5 cells  X 3.7 v = 18.5 volts so that's just a more conservative label

I'm pretty sure the voltage drops to somewhere between 2.8 to 3.1 when the circut cuts in and keeps the battery from complete discharge . Over charging and discharging & overheating hurt the battery life.

If you try to solder, braze or weld these cells they can overheat and explode. Short circuiting and fire can happen as well. I bet those hoverboard fires weren't protected or overheated.

[taylord22]

Just to share: Kyle Toth recently mentioned that Milwaukee Tools came to visit his shop, Jimmy Diresta, and Frank Howarths. Surprisingly, they wanted to watch Kyle cut dovetails, tenons, and turn. 

Just from a business perspective, I find Milwaukee to be extremely interesting. They've always played second fiddle to Dewalt in the construction world, but still hold a sizeable chunk of the market. A few years ago, they went sharply at electricians -- designing a slew of new tools, many of which were simply better (or more economical) versions of highly specialized tools. I'm wondering if they're not gearing up for a run at the "finish carpentry", or even "maker" segment. If that's the case, I suspect we'll see them encroach on some of Festool's NA market. I doubt they surpass or match in many instances, but if they take the same care they took with the "electrician revamp", they will put out some great economical alternatives, as well as some new takes on long standing tools. 

So...this was my first post after a while lurking  A big reason is that I'm actually curious if anyone is using the new Milwaukee OneKey drills? I noticed Marc using Milwaukee drills in his latest video and it made me wonder if he was using them, or anyone around here. Dialing in torque at that level is definitely more of a need in the mechanical world, but I suspect there are some applications in the woodworking world as well. 

For transparency's sake, when revamping a lot of tools in my shop, I spent a stupid amount of time choosing my hand drills (mostly because I recognized that it was an investment in a "system" of general tools). I ended up with the M18 kit after consuming a plethora of "shootout reviews", as well as going the sickening step further of buying a set of Dewalts, Makitas, and Milwaukees. All great drills. The Makitas were undoubtedly the bang for buck kings, but the Milwaukees are what stayed (I ate about $40 selling the other two sets...not bad). Great drills. Overkill for 90% of what I do, but I'm really glad to have them when I step outside for construction lumber/concrete type builds. 

[xxdabroxx]

I have some M18 stuff too, and I'd like to add a couple of their 12v line eventually.  Sometimes having a smaller drill for driving screws is handy or just about the only way to get something done. 

I've abused my 18v set quite a bit.  My sawzall has ran through multiple layers of roofing, T&G roof deck, and the 2x support members without a complaint.  Many blades were consumed during that project.  Also gone through a lot of drywall and supporting members.  I have been regularly using my 1/2" M18 drill to mix drywall mud, thin set, etc. and it hasn't complained.  It doesn't like full throttle on the second speed, it will shut off (I think due to battery draw) but it will spin a bucket of mud just fine in first gear.  I still only have 2 batteries but would like to add one of the oversized and one skinny battery for the sawzall and overhead screws respectively.  I'd also like to add in the cordless circular saw and grinder, then I think I'd be pretty happy with my setup.