sheperd80

Makita Tracksaw Review

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7 hours ago, TIODS said:

I saw a YT video yesterday from someone I don't recall complaining about the track not being flat.  Any complaints along those lines?

Looking at the reviews, there are several who say the same.  At least a couple members here told me they have to use clamps to hold the track flat down to the workpiece.  I guess I got lucky because mine is, as far as I can tell, dead flat.

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23 minutes ago, andrew-in-austin said:

Can you try plunging the saw well before the wood (leave about 8 inches of track ahead of the wood), then sliding the saw in to to the wood?  I never plunge in to the wood because I will usually get a cut mark like you show.

Now, having suggested that, the only problem with plunging before the wood and sliding is that the track is not supported where you plunge, so the track can sag, and possibly twist, and when sliding in to the wood, it may cut slightly off.  Ideally you really need to support the track before the wood with another piece of scrap wood the exact same width as the wood you want to cut, which means you need a work table a bit wider than the piece of wood you are cutting.

Also, at the end of the cut, don't "de" plunge until the saw comes to a complete stop.

Except for cutting up a little MDF the other day I have used my Makita really for four cuts- when I squared up my kitchen table top.  I got burning to some degree when I started every single cut.  I did not plunge before the workpiece.  The top was 6/4 cherry and the burning was OK for the style, so I left it.  I'm definitely going to have to figure out how to avoid it in the future though.  Plunging before the cut, if it can be done, will no doubt work.  Like you said though I'm sure it won't be possible in all situations.

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Are there any new thoughts on this after you have now had it awhile? Just curious...

I still get a little saw mark when i plunge but i dont usually have to plunge cut so its not a big deal. Other than that the TS55 has been great. If my material is flat and my rail is stable then the cut is near perfect. When ur working with warped materials or hokey setups then the cut will suffer which goes for most tools.

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Ive used it for sheetgood breakdown and door cutting primarily. It excelled at cutting door bottoms on a jobsite. I ran through 8 solid core interior doors quick and easy with excellent results. It was nice to finally see it shine in real world conditions with jobsite pressures. You never know how a specialty tool like this will fit into your work flow with other people waiting on you, outside the ideal environment of your shop. And in the shop its even better. Very happy with it now and glad i spent the extra $$ over the Makita.

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The lesson for me was to take advantage of Festools 30 day return policy. If a tool seems off in any way, return that sucker. Every company has occaional qc slips, but get what you paid for.

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I still get a little saw mark when i plunge but i dont usually have to plunge cut so its not a big deal. Other than that the TS55 has been great. If my material is flat and my rail is stable then the cut is near perfect. When ur working with warped materials or hokey setups then the cut will suffer which goes for most tools.

.

Ive used it for sheetgood breakdown and door cutting primarily. It excelled at cutting door bottoms on a jobsite. I ran through 8 solid core interior doors quick and easy with excellent results. It was nice to finally see it shine in real world conditions with jobsite pressures. You never know how a specialty tool like this will fit into your work flow with other people waiting on you, outside the ideal environment of your shop. And in the shop its even better. Very happy with it now and glad i spent the extra $$ over the Makita.

.

The lesson for me was to take advantage of Festools 30 day return policy. If a tool seems off in any way, return that sucker. Every company has occaional qc slips, but get what you paid for.

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Thanks for the info! So you think the ts55 is worth it over the makita now after using both? Is it just the build quality is better or just overall better and easier to use with cutting and setting up?

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Thanks for the info! So you think the ts55 is worth it over the makita now after using both? Is it just the build quality is better or just overall better and easier to use with cutting and setting up?

"Worth it" is pretty subjective i think. For me, yes because im working towards a mobile Festool system so it integrates better than the Makita. But as far as saw versus saw ignoring all the system stuff, there are trade offs to consider. Makita is slightly more powerful and cuts a little deeper. But the Festool seems a little better in most other areas. The settings and adjustments are much more accurate, better DC, safety features, and splinter control. Also i havent had a single kickback with the TS but had a few with the Makita while plunging.

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But the Makita is a damn decent saw and a good value, depending on your intended usage. Ive recommended to a few friends who like the concept but dont like the price of the TS.

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"Worth it" is pretty subjective i think. For me, yes because im working towards a mobile Festool system so it integrates better than the Makita. But as far as saw versus saw ignoring all the system stuff, there are trade offs to consider. Makita is slightly more powerful and cuts a little deeper. But the Festool seems a little better in most other areas. The settings and adjustments are much more accurate, better DC, safety features, and splinter control.

.

But the Makita is a damn decent saw and a good value, depending on your intended usage. Ive recommended to a few friends who like the concept but dont like the price of the TS.

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Ya I mean basically I'm like most on here. A hobby woodworker and don't do it construction or professional full time woodworking.

My main use is going to be breaking down ply and putting a straight edge on bigger wood pieces.

I'm just not sure for $250-300 I'll be able to justify it? I mean I have a few festools including the CT which I'll be using for dust collection but my main line is makita and I can use the track with the makita router as well.

I'm looking at this used but very good condition model here:

Makita SP6000J1 6-1/2-Inch Plunge Circular Saw with Guide Rail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHN6L74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EsxHybJV4DAXP

So for $350 for saw and track that seems like a great deal ...

Also in a few months I'll be building up my garage shop with all my cabinets and etc getting it ready so I figure it will get lots of work then breaking down sheet goods etc

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Ya I mean basically I'm like most on here. A hobby woodworker and don't do it construction or professional full time woodworking.

My main use is going to be breaking down ply and putting a straight edge on bigger wood pieces.

I'm just not sure for $250-300 I'll be able to justify it? I mean I have a few festools including the CT which I'll be using for dust collection but my main line is makita and I can use the track with the makita router as well.

I'm looking at this used but very good condition model here:

Makita SP6000J1 6-1/2-Inch Plunge Circular Saw with Guide Rail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CHN6L74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EsxHybJV4DAXP

So for $350 for saw and track that seems like a great deal ...

Id say go for it. Even used items are returnable on amazon usually. If it falls short of what you want then you can send it back and upgrade. If not, youve got a nice saw for half the price of the festool. I considered going that route with a makita router and the guide adapter as well.

Edit. Just noticed the part about you having a CT and other green tools. That was a big part of it for me. Having 1 plug-it and vac hose attached to each other that will connect to every handheld tool is very appealing to me, ymmv.

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Id say go for it. Even used items are returnable on amazon usually. If it falls short of what you want then you can send it back and upgrade. If not, youve got a nice saw for half the price of the festool. I considered going that route with a makita router and the guide adapter as well.

Edit. Just noticed the part about you having a CT and other green tools. That was a big part of it for me. Having 1 plug-it and vac hose attached to each other that will connect to every handheld tool is very appealing to me, ymmv.

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Ya i do love the 1 plug-it for the green tools pretty handy. However since I'm not on the clock switching is not a huge deal haha.

Just ordered the makita so I'll be able to try it out Wednesday when it shows up hopefully. If not Thursday then to break down some sheets for my bathroom cabinet build.

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Ya i do love the 1 plug-it for the green tools pretty handy. However since I'm not on the clock switching is not a huge deal haha.

Just ordered the makita so I'll be able to try it out Wednesday when it shows up hopefully. If not Thursday then to break down some sheets for my bathroom cabinet build.

Nice, congrats. Tracksaws are just awesome. Ive used a tablesaw and or skilsaw for years on sheetgoods and while it works, its a pita if your workin solo. Its been a real revelation for me. And the simple fact of dust collection on a circ saw has been awesome as well. And the key to the dc is having a sacrificial surface beneath whatever your cutting. If the blade sticks out the bottom, or if your just shaving the edge of a piece, dust flies. If the blade is surrounded it does great. The only edge the festool has there is the green splinterguard in front but the difference was pretty negligible.

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Ok so your saying if I prob up on 2x4 the dust collection won't be near as good as it would if I had a big foam pad or something like that?

Yeah exactly. I was using a few strips of 1/4" mdf for awhile, but recently built a wanna-be mft to use as a spoilboard and clamping table. It makes a dramatic difference.

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4 hours ago, sheperd80 said:

Yeah exactly. I was using a few strips of 1/4" mdf for awhile, but recently built a wanna-be mft to use as a spoilboard and clamping table. It makes a dramatic difference.

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gotcha ... I do have an MFT table that I got back when rockler was getting rid of festool so I couldnt pass up like 60% off. So that will be getting put to use as much as possible and then the full sheets when I first get them I am still working on that setup.

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gotcha ... I do have an MFT table that I got back when rockler was getting rid of festool so I couldnt pass up like 60% off. So that will be getting put to use as much as possible and then the full sheets when I first get them I am still working on that setup.

Man 60% off?!? Jeez i missed that. But yeah full sheets are the real challenge. I made my wanna-be mft the same height as my outfeed table so i lay the sheets across the 2. Works pretty well for the most part.

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7 minutes ago, sheperd80 said:

Man 60% off?!? Jeez i missed that. But yeah full sheets are the real challenge. I made my wanna-be mft the same height as my outfeed table so i lay the sheets across the 2. Works pretty well for the most part.

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ya I walked out of there with a CT36 and MFT for around $650ish If I remember right. I went in to get a Fein vac to save a little money but had the auto on function and the guy was like are you sure you want this? haha 

 

Oh nice idea there! Got any pics of that?

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On 11/27/2016 at 7:53 AM, Eric. said:

I'm not gonna pretend that Festool doesn't have a certain percentage of markup simply because of the name.  You'd be naive to think that.  But they do go the extra mile in the engineering and QC departments and that's what makes them such fine tools...and more expensive.  So while I think they are absolutely overpriced, some of the Festools are still worth paying the extra money for.  Apparently the TS may be one of them...I don't see an extra $200 as a huge disparity for that particular machine.  Drills, on the other hand...now it makes no sense.

Co-sign.

I don't own a Festool (the boss who oversees my budget would be hard to convince.)  But my woodworking buddy is soon to retire from engineering manufacturing in China and is trying to set up his shop before he leaves:  he has several Festools, and they all perform remarkably (great dust collection, among other things.)

I don't know his model of track saw, but he used it to rip lengths of slabs for a table top and they joined perfectly (with his Festool domino cutter, of course.)  He swears by the track saw.

 

 

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On 12/26/2016 at 9:13 PM, sheperd80 said:

Sorry about that Coop, i definitely wont list your, er...uh their address. And i wont upload pics of the weird interior stuff like the 50 shades of grey bdsm room, or the woodworking sweatshop in the basement. :-D

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Yeah, that's a nice place, Coop.  But how do you hang 3" thick solid wood doors!!

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Yeah, that's a nice place, Coop.  But how do you hang 3" thick solid wood doors!!

Gotta eat your wheaties. Especially when theyre 12' tall

87927e10e3cfdc706a5a94de6d5e21bd.jpg

😥

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ya I walked out of there with a CT36 and MFT for around $650ish If I remember right. I went in to get a Fein vac to save a little money but had the auto on function and the guy was like are you sure you want this? haha 

 

Oh nice idea there! Got any pics of that?

Its 5am and cold so im not gonna pull out a full sheet but i think you'll get the idea. I just move the little table in or out depending on the size of the fall-off and crosscut right on top of it. In the pic the track is roughly where i would make a cut. If i were crosscutting a sheet in half id butt the tables together to support both halves. The dust isnt captured for a brief second at the beginning and end of the cut because of the table length but it gets most of it.

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The table was a scrap wood prototype, ill build another soon and probably make it longer for this reason.

d5079dd3760b0808dfa1daee74bd5287.jpg

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