Pbmaster11 Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I want to make a new nightstand with MDF and paint it black.... i would like to protect the top... so my questions are... Is MDF the right product to use? I heard it paints well... Yes? No? How to protect the top? Poly? Will it stick well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Check out these two articles from the experts at Fine Woodworking: "Tips for Painting MDF" http://www.finewoodworking.com/Materials/MaterialsArticle.aspx?id=26508 "Three Steps to a Flawless Painted Finish", from Fine Woodworking #177, May/June 2005 http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=24144 -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 MDF is a great substrate for paint, so no problems there. I think the bigger question you have to ask yourself is if MDF is the right building material to use for something like a nightstand. But if you already thought it through and that's what you want to use, the painting should go great. I've been using lots of water-based stuff myself lately, and many times I'll coat the paint with a water-based topcoat. Plenty of protection for something like a nightstand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekG Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 The edges on mdf is the real killer. The best cure for mdf "end grain" I've found is to use a 50/50 water/glue mix. Paint it on the edges, let dry, sand lightly, repeat til it stops soaking up the mix. Otherwise the ends will like like true crap compared to the top. On a side note, at least around here baltic birch and red oak plywood are close in price to mdf. They would both make a better material choice to me if solid wood is off the table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 I've also used drywall mud for the edges. I built a five piece credenza for my brother's record collection while he's been moving from apt to apt as a college student. It has held up remarkably well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beechwood Chip Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 If you use MDF, watch out for dust, especially if you route it. Wear a respirator, and have a plan for getting rid of the dust if you work indoors. MDF produces a very fine dust, almost like flour, that will coat every surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbmaster11 Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 okay I will pry change to birch or oak ply... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhelart Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Regardless of what material you end up using if I were trying to get a smooth coat of paint on it I'd be shellacking it first, I used that technique on a birch desk once and it helped to seal the pores and I ended up with a much smoother final finish. Ifyou are thinking about oak or birch ply I'd also suggest birch, the grain will probably be tighter and you should end up with a better final painted finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhelart Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Another thought in the MDF debate; my favorite way to finish MDF is to veneer it and edge band it. It makes a pretty good substrate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChetlovesMer Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 The edges on mdf is the real killer. The best cure for mdf "end grain" I've found is to use a 50/50 water/glue mix. Paint it on the edges, let dry, sand lightly, repeat til it stops soaking up the mix. Otherwise the ends will like like true crap compared to the top. Derekg, I use that trick all the time. 50/50 Titebond and water on MDF before painting and it will come out nearly as good as thermofoiled. Everytime I build a raised panel door in any cabinet that is going to be painted (normally white) I use MDF and the 50/50 Titebond trick. I guarantee any time your planning on painting a cabinet, use MDF for the raised panels, a little titebond, and it will come out better than wood. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klousiajp@gmail.com Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 One option that might be worth while is to make the case out of MDF, and put a hardwood top and face-frame on it. Your gonna have to edge band the plywood anyway, if you want to paint, MDF is a good option. I did this with a cabinet for my kitchen. The case is all MDF and it has a poplar face frame and drawer fronts. The top is 8/4 maple that I milled down and secured with figure 8 clips and then finished with BLO and wax. Not sure about the BLO option yet, but we'll see as it ages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.