Michael Ginsberg Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 Have never turned Bloodwood. I know hard and dense... any special things to be aware of? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barron Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 I haven't found any issues and it can look great when finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Ginsberg Posted September 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 Waterlox? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 It will darken to brown unless you protect it from light (UV ) and oxygen. An exterior waterbourne with a UV filter is what I would finish it with, even then keep it away from direct sunlight. Either that or a simple oil or wax that could be sanded off when it gets too dark. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Ginsberg Posted September 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 I don't think Waterlox has UV inhibitors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdwerker Posted September 16, 2017 Report Share Posted September 16, 2017 Exactly. Plus Waterlox will add a yellowish tint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skatergirl46 Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 I see that someone has already posted aboit the color change. When I turn it I just keep my tool sharp and go slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Ginsberg Posted September 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 What is the best product out there that will have UV protection and still give the depth like an oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Ginsberg Posted September 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 I know wipe on poly has the UV protection... but looks plastic like... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 Keep in mind that you can slow color change with UV inhibitor but you can't stop it. Mother Nature wins every time. Finish your turning with whatever looks best and don't bother worrying about the color change. It's gonna happen no matter what you do. I find bloodwood takes considerably longer to turn brown than some of the other reddish exotics like padauk and redheart. Bubinga seems to hold its color indefinitely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Ginsberg Posted September 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 Wow. Great thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 2 hours ago, Michael Ginsberg said: I know wipe on poly has the UV protection... but looks plastic like... Also note that Waterlox IS a "wipe-on poly." It's diluted varnish, just like Minwax and ARS. It only looks like plastic if you build a thick film or use gloss or semi-gloss. A few coats of satin will not look like plastic, especially if you buff it down after curing with 1000 grit pad. That said, film-forming finishes are not my favorite for turnings. I prefer to sand them to high grits then use oil/wax. Turnings are rarely high-abuse items and they don't require much protection, if any. I like close-to-the-wood finishes whenever possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 Actually Waterlox uses phenolic resin instead of polyurethane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 3 hours ago, estesbubba said: Actually Waterlox uses phenolic resin instead of polyurethane. Poly may have been inaccurate, but it's still a diluted varnish and behaves the same way as other wipe-on poly's. Even ARS doesn't specifically state "poly"...rather, "heavy duty oil & urethane top coat"...which is a little misleading in reality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Ginsberg Posted September 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 So Waterlox wins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 12 minutes ago, Michael Ginsberg said: So Waterlox wins? Waterlox will build a film, and you said you didn't want that. What is it you're turning, specifically? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Ginsberg Posted September 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 12 minutes ago, Eric. said: Waterlox will build a film, and you said you didn't want that. What is it you're turning, specifically? I'm turning a fruit or salad bowl. Probably something like this Sapele that i finished the other day. I have used wipe on poly...and it looked more plastic like. The picture is two wipe on coats of Waterlox Original red label. More coats to come. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 That's a pretty bowl...I like the finish as-is without more coats, personally. Are you planning on using it or just putting it on the shelf as decoration? I can see the justification for building a film if it's actually gonna have salad in it...but if you like the more natural look you're only gonna get farther away from it with each additional coat. For most of my turnings I'll just put a coat of BLO on, let it dry, then a coat or two of Renaissance wax. It's not exactly a sophisticated finish but it's very natural looking and offers plenty of protection for something that doesn't need any protection. I also like the Tried & True linseed/beeswax formula. The wipe-on poly you used...was it satin? Because I don't get a plasticky look at all when using 3-4 coats of satin. Semi-gloss or gloss...yeah it can look plasticky really quick. You can also knock the sheen down on satin poly even further if you use a 1000 grit platin pad after the finish has cured. You could even try a 500 grit pad and approach a matte finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Ginsberg Posted September 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 This is going to be a usable fruit bowl. And yes, I did use semigloss wipe on . That's probably the reason. Thanks for the compliment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Ginsberg Posted September 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 By the way... Waterlox recommends brushing. I think too thick... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric. Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 8 minutes ago, Michael Ginsberg said: By the way... Waterlox recommends brushing. I think too thick... Agreed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 2 hours ago, Eric. said: Even ARS doesn't specifically state "poly"...rather "heavy duty oil & urethane top coat"...which is a little misleading in reality. Yes plenty of finish labels are misleading. Even David Marks would say he's applying a tung oil finish which I believe was ARS which contains no tung oil. I used to be a long time Waterlox user and bought into poly looks like plastic. Over the years I've learned it's more about sheen and also how thick you build it. Both Waterlox and wipe on poly gloss look like plastic to me and their satins don't. Since Waterlox costs double of ARS, I no longer use Waterlox. I agree with Eric that bowl looks great as-is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Ginsberg Posted September 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 Thanks folks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Ginsberg Posted September 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 I usually use Watco Danish oil. But I took a course with David Ellsworth, and he raves about Waterlox. This bowl wad with Danish oil. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
estesbubba Posted September 18, 2017 Report Share Posted September 18, 2017 There's nothing wrong with Waterlox but they changed their satin formula about 5 years ago. I always built with Original then did the final coat with satin. On these tables I wiped on the final coat and the top had inconsistent sheen so I did one more coat and same thing. I contacted Waterlox and they said you can't wipe their satin because flatteners need to stay suspended in the finish. I applied with a foam brush and while much better it still wasn't what I had hoped. After this project I bought an HVLP and have been mainly spraying waterbournes since then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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