Shop Made Replaceable Inserts for Aluminum ZCI


gee-dub

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I had planned to dovetail one of my phenolic ZCI's to allow replaceable inserts but, never got around to it. Rockler had a clearance sale and the price on this commercial version was fair. I had held off putting it on until I could make some replacement inserts for it.

I am still on "light duty" so rather than wrestle a sheet of 1/4" MDF or hardboard I dug some resaw-spoil out of the scrap bin. I milled the scrap to 1/4" thickness and ripped it to width.

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I used the commercial insert to set the dovetail angle.

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A Marc Adams style push block works well for this long thin stock.

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OK, that part fits.

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I used a magnetic featherboard as a stop to cut the riving knive/blade guard slot.

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Don't forget the clearance for bevel cuts.

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Now that I know how to do it I should be able to make a bunch more in a batch once I'm up to it.

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Like many of these things, making one doesn't really pay. Making a dozen out of scrap however, is way cheaper than paying for them.

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I'm about to make a batch of inserts like that for my 2 Aluminum ZCI plates. Quite a few years ago I was buying some and occasionally making some when I would run out and need them in a hurry. I've got a whole sheet of 1/4" Baltic waiting to make the new ones, hopefully that will last me a long time. Accuracy is key for a good fit which translates into lots of set up time.

Great idea on dovetailing a phenolic plate ! I've got one I use with my Micro Jig splitters that isn't very "zero clearance " anymore .

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At one minute, twenty seconds here.  I had seen Marc and instructors at his school use these tadpole sort of looking push blocks.  I have a variety from a push "stick" through  Grr-Rippers and this happened to be one of them.  The one in this thread is made from a couple pieces of scrap ply laminated together for thickness and then cut to shape.  I make my "hook" just shy of 1/4" so I can push 1/4" BB ply and thicker.

I do not favor cutting through the block although you will see many do this.  I do it now and again but, if the blade is cutting into the block more than an 1/8" you can have it ripped right out of your hand if you fail to keep a perfect feed path.  When I know I am going to cut into the block, the block is riding the fence face just like the material.

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I use a cruder version of that style block. Just a length of 2x6 with a 'heel' screwed the the end (brass screws only). Using such a block sacrifically is great for ripping thin strips, as the block prevents the strip from shooting back. So the strip can be cut between blade and fence, rather than using a reference block on the offcut side and adjusting the fence with each pass.

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