Popular Post Idaho Andy Posted April 7, 2019 Popular Post Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 I've been sucking information from this group for years and decided it's probably time to try and contribute a bit, so this is more of an info thread than a real question. Recently there was a thread asking about using oil/wax finish as a maintenance coat over existing oil/wax. I have just finished a Maloof inspired low back chair and couldn't get my regular "Maloof" oil/poly and oil/wax blend from Rockler. It seems Rockler, at least for now, no longer carries the product. As a standby, I used Tried and True oil/varnish and oil/wax (beeswax) finish. Three coats of each per the instructions. The bottom line is that it wasn't the finish I had hoped for. It had a lower sheen and seemed to grab you when you sat in the chair... I assumed that was due to the softer beeswax. My next project was a couple of maple bar stools, and I was again faced with a finish issue. I had heard Marc drop the names Rubio monocoat and OSMO so I started a bit of research. I wasn't looking to add color and it appeared that was a major selling point for Rubio monocoat. OSMO looked to be possible solution, I ordered a can to try. During the research I dropped a "contact us" email to the OSMO guys and a day later received a phone call for the return conversation... suffice it to say I was impressed with the service. We not only discussed application on raw wood but also the impact of renewal coats over exiting oil/wax finishes. Don't be mislead by the name OSMO Polyx ... there is no polyurethane in the finish, it's strictly plant oils (yep...you read that right) and hardwax with a small amount of odorless mineral spirits. There are virtually no odors during use. I applied the finish with a 2x2inch white Scotch-Brite pad. About an 8 hour dry. Today I finished the final coats on both the bar stools AND re-coating the low back chair. I was amazed how much more the OSMO popped the grain and improved the sheen on the already finished walnut... unbelievably impressed. The difference was so profound that even the bride saw a huge improvement. As for the maple bar stools... it popped the figure and provided a flawless finish. Easy to apply and seems almost fool proof. A quick note here, OSMO poly hardwax oil was developed by the flooring industry, as a result the instructions that come with the product are for applying it to a floor.. the following is a link for furniture application http://www.raincoastalternatives.com/files/3613/1810/6146/3054Furniturev2.1_HOW_TO.pdf I've taken the liberty of attaching a couple project photos. I hope if someone is trying to search OSMO as an option.. they might find this thread. It's my new go-to for any oil/wax applications. 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmac Posted April 7, 2019 Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 Andy, thanks for that, very useful. I've been using the Maloof finishes also, with nice results, and still have some left. But this product I was looking to try and your review has given me the last push to jump in. I was just doing some online research this week about the product, and was specifically looking at how to apply it on furniture. I saw Marc apply it on a table top with a spatula type applicator and I found some info on using the white abrasive pads, but very little info on wiping off excess, buffing and etc. The link you provided was perfect! I do have a question for either you or anyone else out there. I've been using 0000 steel wool to apply the final coats of the Maloof finish, then wiping it down after applying. This technique has worked great for me. Could I use the steel wool to apply osmo? Finally, love the Maloof pieces, would love to see more of your endeavors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted April 7, 2019 Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 Gorgeous chairs! That Osmo is probably fine for chairs that won't have anything but people sitting on them. A friend of mine here makes pieces of furniture that she sells at a large art fair once a year. She had a party at her home this Christmas, and someone left a glass sitting on a sideboard, ready to go, after a tour of her shop. She had to redo the whole finish on the top of that piece. She finishes her Walnut pieces with that particular Osmo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted April 7, 2019 Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 Andy - I'm happy to hear that you like the Osmo PolyX as much as I do. It's hard to describe the look and feel of the finish and what it does to the figure. As i mentioned in the other thread you referenced, I was unhappy with the look of the ARS on my office desk - very dry in spots - and went over it with the Osmo. LOVE IT! A while back I spilled some red wine on the desktop (I choked and coughed) - splatters everywhere, BEFORE I had applied the Osmo. Very hard to remove/minimize the stains it left, and I wiped it immediately. Before I hit it with Osmo I took some gray Scotch Brite to the stains with mineral spirits. It helped. Yesterday I noticed I had a small spill of the same red wine from the night before (after Osmo application). It wiped right off with no visible staining. So far it's showing fewer signs of wear than the ARS did. My go-to also for anything that doesn't require a varnish. BTW - beautiful job on the chairs! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Beasley Posted April 7, 2019 Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 4 hours ago, Bmac said: I do have a question for either you or anyone else out there. I've been using 0000 steel wool to apply the final coats of the Maloof finish, then wiping it down after applying. This technique has worked great for me. Could I use the steel wool to apply osmo? Since its recommended to apply Osmo with a low abrasive pad I would think the steel wool would do just fine. Simply try it on a test piece and report back to us. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted April 7, 2019 Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 I haven't applied Osmo, but since finding these pads, I haven't pulled out any steel wool. They work great with Restore-A-Finish, so I think they would work fine for that. They also come in the maroon, and gray, and are the same as the small packages you buy everywhere else. These 3's are really fine. These boxes have long rolls in them that are perforated for easily pulling off 6" long pads. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-7745-Scotch-Brite-Clear-Blend-Prep-Scuff-Hand-Pads-Roll-of-30-5-x-6-Pads/372087124699?epid=1722704457&hash=item56a21ef2db:g:H8kAAOSwbqpT9RnH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmac Posted April 7, 2019 Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 How about the TopOil, has anyone used this? How does this differ from the PolyX? https://osmo-store.com/product/topoil-high-solid/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Idaho Andy Posted April 7, 2019 Author Popular Post Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 6 hours ago, Bmac said: I do have a question for either you or anyone else out there. I've been using 0000 steel wool to apply the final coats of the Maloof finish, then wiping it down after applying. This technique has worked great for me. Could I use the steel wool to apply osmo? As Gary suggested, give it a try on a test piece, but it should work fine, there's no water in OSMO. The reason the white Scotch-Brite pads were suggested is that they do not absorb the finish like a rag would, and a 2x2 inch pad (roughly, maybe 2 11/16 x 2 5/8 ) is a good size to work with and limits the amount of finish in the pad (still plenty). White Scotch-Brite is also a match finer abrasive than 0000 steel wool. I believe the gray Scotch-Brite is the equivalent of 0000 the next finer being maroon and finally the white. BTW... one more photo... the barstools where an extended project for me, this is the first photo of the project 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Beasley Posted April 7, 2019 Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 2 hours ago, Bmac said: How about the TopOil, has anyone used this? How does this differ from the PolyX? https://osmo-store.com/product/topoil-high-solid/ I use the Top Oil on my bowls quite often. It has quite a high solids content and you can see the wax buildup around the mouth of the can. Works quite well for a satiny smooth finish and will even build to the point of glossyness if you work on it. I havent tried wet sanding with it but I bet it would work pretty good for that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmac Posted April 7, 2019 Report Share Posted April 7, 2019 7 hours ago, Idaho Andy said: As Gary suggested, give it a try on a test piece, but it should work fine, there's no water in OSMO. The reason the white Scotch-Brite pads were suggested is that they do not absorb the finish like a rag would, and a 2x2 inch pad (roughly, maybe 2 11/16 x 2 5/8 ) is a good size to work with and limits the amount of finish in the pad (still plenty). White Scotch-Brite is also a match finer abrasive than 0000 steel wool. I believe the gray Scotch-Brite is the equivalent of 0000 the next finer being maroon and finally the white. BTW... one more photo... the barstools where an extended project for me, this is the first photo of the project Andy, love it. What type of maple is that? You got some nice curly stock from those logs. Did you mill it yourself? It's always so rewarding to build with what you harvested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idaho Andy Posted April 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2019 I have a summer place near Hayward, Wisconsin. My neighbor needed to drop a few trees, all native... the red oak he repurposed into flooring and I was able to talk him out of a couple of nice lengths of red maple (Acer rubrum)... soft maple. The area has a history of lumber jacks and timber harvest, and was actually able to have one of the older and still operating historic mills do a custom milling for me... all 8/4 live edge. I also found a local kiln operator to dry it. All I needed to do was schlep it back to my shop in Idaho and yes... I really lucked out with the figure! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idaho Andy Posted April 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2019 23 hours ago, Bmac said: How about the TopOil, has anyone used this? How does this differ from the PolyX? https://osmo-store.com/product/topoil-high-solid/ Just received a reply from the OSMO rep.... Top Oil only comes in a .5 liter container, and is very close to the Polyx formulation. The main difference is that OSMO has made the investment to get a third party “food safe” certification for Top Oil. In actual use, it’s unlikely that you would notice a difference between TopOil and Polyx. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Beasley Posted April 8, 2019 Report Share Posted April 8, 2019 I do like the fact the Top Oil is in a can with a twist top, though I did cut the lock tabs off to make it easier to open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scarlett Posted February 8, 2021 Report Share Posted February 8, 2021 I applied osmos Poly but now wondering what is the top coat and should I have used that to finish a walnut countertop. Someone on another thread said top coat and more solvents and was meant for countertops. I’m so tired of trying to find the right way to finish this countertop. I love them. But they creat so much work for me trying to keep them from getting ruined. I hope the Poly holds up. Does anyone know if I should have used the top coat. Is there a difference. Is it better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chestnut Posted February 8, 2021 Report Share Posted February 8, 2021 I'm sure someone will chime in but the company may be your best resource on what to use where. US base site. I believe they have resources in other countries as well if you aren't US based. https://osmocolorusa.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick S Posted February 8, 2021 Report Share Posted February 8, 2021 48 minutes ago, Scarlett said: I applied osmos Poly but now wondering what is the top coat and should I have used that to finish a walnut countertop. Someone on another thread said top coat and more solvents and was meant for countertops. I’m so tired of trying to find the right way to finish this countertop. I love them. But they creat so much work for me trying to keep them from getting ruined. I hope the Poly holds up. Does anyone know if I should have used the top coat. Is there a difference. Is it better? Just to avoid any possible confusion, It's Polyx, not Poly. Poly is short for polyurethane and is a completely different product. As far as I know, Osmo does not offer a polyurethane product. To your question, you can absolutely put Osmo Top Oil over their Polyx hard wax oil. Top Oil is specially formulated to be food safe for countertops and cutting boards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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