Getting conflicting advice re: router/ lock miter bit

[shackleblister]

New here but not new to the sport. I am looking to craft a few blanket chests, and have decide to put them together using a lock miter bit, and then was thinking of adding several splined DT's to the joint. Since I don't yet own a router table, I am searching for one to buy, along with a new dedicated router for it. (I can use the handheld to make the tapered joints for the splines). I would like to ask for opinions on a few considerations, because I have received 3 entirely different recommendations. So I will start by saying the material will be 3/4" Pine. I would like to know the minimum hp rating for the router, if it is necessary to have a variable speed unit, and does one need to first "pre-cut" the miter at 45 degrees, then tool at the router table? Thank you.

[Chestnut]

I like my porter cable 895pk the kit comes with a mount that you can use to make your own router table. The router can then be easily removed and used hand held in a plunge base.

The 890 series router is more than enough to run raised panel bits. 

I'd make your own table as they are very simple and easy to make. It could be as simple as a piece of plywood you attach to saw horses or as tricked out as you want.

[wtnhighlander]

I believe pre-cutting to 45* would be wasted effort when following with a locked miter bit set. The bits need some material outside the 45* line to form the tongue & groove for locking.

[pkinneb]

I think the reason you may be getting different advice as in a lot of cases one router really isn’t the best for all tasks. I have many routers, a half dozen palm routers most bought used on CL for $45/50 and I keep different profiles in them so they are always at the ready. Can you use a larger router for the same tasks? Yes but not as well in my opinion. For a router table and panel bits I prefer a big, 3hp or more, variable speed router like the PC 7518 motor. For hand held mortising operations I like good dust collection like my Festool routers. As you can see there’s a lot of choices for different tasks.

FWIW if starting with one reasonable priced router Drew’s selection is a solid buy. But beware it’s like chips or chisels you can’t have just one 

[Robby W]

For a router table, I suggest the Milwaukee 5625-20 3 1/4 HP router. I have had the Porter Cable and like the Milwaukee better. To start with, it you don't want to by a router lift, you can remove the baseplate and mount it to the router table. You can adjust the 4625-20 from above the table with a supplied wrench, or you can remove it from the base and out it in a lift. I like the speed control better, (it is continuous, not stepped), and Milwaukee reliability is legendary. 

If I could afford it, I would get a cast iron router table top and out it on my own base. My router table is the left extension table on my tablesaw and the extra space is nice for both uses.