Tractor/Mower advice


JohnG
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I thought of something else, after cleaning up the JD today.  Don't ever spill a drop of fuel when filling it, if you get diesel.  It attracts dirt, will stay there forever, and stinks every time it gets hot.  It doesn't just stay where you can see it, but gets in, and under everything.  It took me 20 minutes to clean the underside of the hood this afternoon.  I don't think I had ever seen the underside of that hood before taking it off for this recent work. 

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I was greasing the JD this morning, and laid the guns out to show the different types.  Each serves a purpose that the others won't, sometimes. 

The little one has a rubber tip on it, and not the kind that fits on a Zerk fitting.  It gets used for greasing gearheads on string trimmers, and the clearing saw.  Also, for holding a gasket in place, and any time you need a tiny drop of grease on something.

The one with the shorter hose has an end that clamps onto the grease fitting.  Sometimes one doesn't want to stay on by itself.  One of the ones with a stiff end has a close quarters right angle end.

 

IMG_2366.JPG

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  • 8 months later...
On 4/10/2020 at 4:12 PM, Tom King said:

I put gas and fuel in a few things and most of them couldn't benefit from flushing. Diesel jugs are not visible to the left of the gas cans. They sit outside in the sun, those with open holes are empty.

No gas has ever bothered me. People who decided the new design was a better idea, forgot to add common sense, and whether or not they used a portable gas can.

 

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John Deere Trailers

Sir, what are theese pumps actually??

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The only granular I use is Pramitol, a ground sterilizer.  I use a plastic scoop, and throw it.  The only reason I use that one is because I don't want to walk down in the gulley where I throw it, and too much chance of drift from spraying it.  I only use broadcast spreaders for seeds.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/8/2020 at 9:49 PM, Tom King said:

Whether you buy gas, or diesel, you will need to be able to feed it.   I have a 100 gallon tank, with a 12v pump that I can sit in the truck to go fill it up, but I don't need that these days, so I use 5 gallon jugs.  The nozzles that come on the ones you buy these days are just a PIA.

Buy Midwest jugs-however many you think you need.  Yellow if diesel.  I'd get at least two.  I buy them at Tractor Supply, but not sure that's the cheapest place.  Discard the nozzle that comes with it, and buy one of these:   https://www.ebay.com/itm/133365032164?ViewItem=&item=133365032164   They're much more spill proof than any of the standard ones, that are supposed to be spill proof, and they flow better anyway.  You leave the long hose in the tank, and when you see, or hear it filling up, leave the hose in, and lower the jug-no spills.

I like the Midwest jugs because they have the best design for the gasket, that you reuse with those nozzles from the seller on ebay.  The Midwest gasket fits over the outside of the machined aluminum part.  My other jugs, I already had, and had to find other seals for the nozzle, even made some, and they're still easy to lose, or get out of position.

Here are some pictures of a diesel Midwest jug.  I put two vents on my diesel jugs, and the fuel does flow out faster than with one vent.

IMG_1031.thumb.JPG.e57616dbb4015a8d2e67092086842aad.JPGIMG_1032.thumb.JPG.cff1c3e4a288669ec031a338311b9d95.JPG

Tom, do you have another link to these spouts? The link above seems to be dead. I did order a grease gun in preparation for the tractor being delivered. 

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I looked, and they don't have a listing up right now.  I'll check later.  He's let it drop off before, and then added one later.  I'll post here when I find it.

After much back, and forth on looking for a mower, I've finally decided on the one I'm going to get.  I was back, and forth from a riding mower (which included the B2601), and a zero-turn.  I've changed my mind multiple times, but then looked at videos on zero turns with a steering wheel, that lets you steer the front tires.

I have a few spots that would be dangerous with a regular, lap bar steered zero turn.  On those, the front wheels just caster.  If the back wheels start sliding, in my case in the lake, the front wheels say okay, we're going that way.  Steerable front wheels help enough to make a difference in those cases.  That was the reason I looked so hard at riding mowers, but they're awfully slow for all the flat area I have to cover.

Cub Cadet makes a dual rear wheel version of this, and that got me looking at the steerable ones, but my slopes aren't severe enough to need the dual rear wheels, which tear up the turf more than single rear wheels.

So, the round, and round search led me to this one, which is really fortunate because the closest dealer we have for any brand carries this brand, and I know, and like the owners.  I grew up with their parents.

Anyway, I'm planning to talk to them as soon as I can about it.  Kawasaki just came out with a 38 hp efi engine, and I'm hoping they plan to put one in this model.  I run them hard.  This will cut grass at 14 mph, and hold my slopes fine.

https://www.cubcadet.com/en_US/commercial-zero-turn-mowers/pro-z-972-s-kw/53FIHMUY050.html#start=9

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I hadn’t seen those steering wheel ZTRs before. Will your land let you mow at 14mph?
I had planned on going ZTR over GT due to mowing speed, but our pastures are too rough to really go much, if any, faster than the GTs go. I’m noe considering the Husq 48” GT just for mowing the lawn and perimeter of the fields, and pulling a little trailer around. My ZTR can pull my log splitter but only just, especially when going uphill. The GT should do better with it. 

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It might even weigh more.  I think it's about 1650 lbs.  It's pretty cool how the steering linkage operates the drive motors like a regular lap bar one.  

Yes, all that's not smooth will get smoother.  The two acre field beside our house used to be our jumping ring.  I scraped most of the sand off of it, and had a motor grader level it, before planting grass.  Anything else that's not that smooth will get smoother.  I'm building a leveling drag to pull behind the John Deere, and have a screen coming.

I have an area probably about 1/4 acre that  I've been letting people dump leaves on for 30 years, some stumps, and all the muck we got out of the pond 30 some years ago.  It's full of worms, and grows grass four feet tall before I can cut it.

I was asking a landscape guy, who owns a giant screen, if he knew anyone who had a portable screen.  He said he'd move his for 10 hours work.  He also has an articulated loader.  His screen runs something over 100 cubic yards an hour.  I didn't want to feed it with my tractor loader, so he said he'd bring the screen, and the loader for 250 an hour.  So for 2500, I'll have more of the best topsoil than I can ever use, and easily have enough to sell to pay for the equipment.

I intend to spread a few inches on the point, and use other to level other spots around.

The leveler can be used after grass gets growing even, so over a few years, I should have everything really smooth.

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1 hour ago, Tom King said:

Fast forward to 7:20 in this video to see how the steering system links to the hydraulic drives.  This is the dual rear wheel version, but the rest is close to the same.

 

That almost sheet metal mechanism does not look too robust to me.  Looks like a good place for debris to get into and start jamming and bending things.  I've worked on a few Cub Cadet machines and found the build quality less than stellar (to be nice).

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Yes, there are some things I would like done differently on it.  I remember at the start of this video, the salesman was saying why they went with non-greaseable spindles, asking when was the last time you greased your truck.  My answer would have been the last time I changed the oil, same as always. I would prefer cast iron over cast aluminum, and greaseable, but I'm sure it will be okay for my use.

But I haven't found a step up from this one, that will do the same things, short of golf course mowers that cost three times as much.  Otherwise, I would have to have two different mowers, which I was considering before I found out about these.

I will be the operator, maintenance man, and mechanic, and I don't think I'll have a lot of trouble maintaining it.  I bought my truck new, but now is 21 years old, with 360,000 miles, so I'm okay at keeping stuff going.   I am glad they use the big Parker drive units, and it seems to be okay overall, for what I need.   

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You know as far as fuel cans go, I really like the No-Spill cans I have.   I have a 1.25 and a 2.5 for gas in my JD X370, Honda HRX and Snowblower..   But they do make 5 gallon jugs as well.

http://www.nospill.com/index.html

The only downside is they work great for fuel caps on top, like what you see in lawn equipment.   But not so great trying to pour gas into a car from the side.   It can be done, but it'd be easier with a longer spout.

But yeah, when we first moved to this property I had one of those cheap cans from Home Depot, and was so frustrated with it, I went out looking for something better which is how I found the No-Spill at Ace.

 

 

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Talked to the dealer about that mower.  She called Cub Cadet, and they aren't going to put the EFI version of that motor in it.  I can live with a Carburetor.

If I wait until April, which I won't need it before then anyway, 11,5 if she can order it with her big Spring order.  I told her to count on it.

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