Dewalt DW735 Planer - No Power


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My Dewalt planer will not turn on. I was trying to feed a large slab of walnut through it when it quit. It was an awkward sized slab...the planer was cutting much because it wouldn’t feed the slab through the planer. After several minutes of unsuccessful feeding it simply quit. I tried the circuit breaker on the planer to no avail. I checked my electric panel...no breakers were tripped. I had the planer connected to an extension cord plugged into a 20amp dedicated outlet. I put a meter on the start switch and the circuit breaker on the planer. Both appear to have continuity...but I’m no electrician. Oh I did check the brushes and didn’t notice any unusual wear/tear. The fan (impeller maybe?) blade had one broken blade...chipped off rather. I guess I could start by replacing the start switch, circuit breaker, brushes, fan blade...but wish there was a better way to diagnose the problem. I tried to remove the armature from the motor house but couldn’t get the pulley off to pull the shaft through the motor housing. 
That should be plenty to get started. All suggestions are appreciated. 

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How close to flat was the slab?  If it was rough and not  very close to flat, when it hits a high spot it'll bog down and shut off. let it sit for a while, then recheck your panel for that circuit, and then retry the breaker on the planer. On bigger boards going through the 735, you have to take tiny cuts, because the large part of the blade is working and not just a small part.  If you slab was 10 or 12 inches wide, you have to accept a thinner cut and a slower cut, the planer is working much harder than normal.

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Very good points Richard. It was a live edge slab but i'd leveled one side. It was 12" wide with an unusual shape. The planer never got a chance to engage...the rollers couldn't get a hold of it. I've had the planer for roughly 10 years and have used it quite a bit...but I've also taken care of it. I was wondering if there wa some kind of thermal overload on it, other than the circuit breaker that i can replace easily. i hate to replace parts that aren't broken...but will if necessary.

 

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Wow, strange occurrence. Last week I was running some walnut thru my 735 and it came upon some wonky grain and bogged down and shut off. I let it cool down and pushed the reset circuit breaker ( and that’s what it is called). I found out that the 18 amp breaker becomes weaker and weaker, each time it trips. To make a long story short, remove the circuit breaker switch and go online and order a new one. I forget the part number but it’s on the breaker. Luckily my brother had the same problem and had a spare and I’m up and running with no problem. My spare breaker, less than $10, is in route. 

FYI, I try and crank each pass to about 1/4 turn on each  crank. 

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@Coop has a valid point, circuit breakers don't work forever. Just on the off chance, is your dedicated receptacle a GFCI? I have had those trip like an overloaded circuit breaker before. Under very similar conditions.

You can also check the motor winding, at least the one currently under the brushes. With the unit unplugged, switch off, and brushes in, take a continuity reading at the brushes. If that shows open, the motor itself may be shot.

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Excellent ideas guys!!! I put a meter on the reset CB and the main switch, I may have mentioned...but we weren’t 100% sure what we were doing. The digital readout would change each time we turned opened the switch...but I know that’s not how it’s supposed to be done. I’m going to order a new reset CB, put It back together, check the continuity from the brushes, and prepare that rascal for some new blades. And pray it’s not the motor itself. Great suggestions again. Thanks guys???

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@BryanFaz, a few of us are electrically educated types. If you can post a picture that shows the front of your meter, we might provide instructions on how to set it and use  it.   I am assuming you were working with the machine unplugged, with the meter set to the "Ohms" or resistance measuring function. When you test across a switch or circuit breaker in that mode, you should see the number go very high or out-of-range when the switch or breaker is in the "off" or "open" position, and the numbers should be very close to zero when the switch or breaker is on / closed.

In fact, when you put it all back together, you should be able to read across the 2 flat blades of the power plug, and see the same conditions when you flip the switch. In this case, you are reading through the motor winding as well, so the low number won't be as close to zero, but this does let you quickly check all the parts at once. If the test result is bad, then start checking one at a time.

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9 hours ago, wtnhighlander said:

@BryanFaz, a few of us are electrically educated types. If you can post a picture that shows the front of your meter, we might provide instructions on how to set it and use  it.   I am assuming you were working with the machine unplugged, with the meter set to the "Ohms" or resistance measuring function. When you test across a switch or circuit breaker in that mode, you should see the number go very high or out-of-range when the switch or breaker is in the "off" or "open" position, and the numbers should be very close to zero when the switch or breaker is on / closed.

In fact, when you put it all back together, you should be able to read across the 2 flat blades of the power plug, and see the same conditions when you flip the switch. In this case, you are reading through the motor winding as well, so the low number won't be as close to zero, but this does let you quickly check all the parts at once. If the test result is bad, then start checking one at a time.

Thanks WTNHighlander! I will try this and let 

you know ASAP.

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Update on Dewalt 735 Planer power issue. I was able to put my Dewalt planer back together (small miracle)...but i was not able to power it on. So, as one of the commenters to this thread suggested, I've taken a couple of pictures and in so doing I may have found the problem. First though I tried to jump around the circuit breaker on the planer thinking that was my problem. It may be a problem but another  one. I found the power coming into the planer and to the switch. i put a meter on the neutral and hot wires and got no reading. Then i noticed a very small black transformer or relay (maybe) that the hot wire was connected to. i disconnected the hot wire and tested the neutral and hot again and this time i had power. From the relay, the hot wire went to the circuit breaker, then to the switch. I don't know what that is, but, it could be part of the problem. 

Thoughts???

Planer1.jpeg

Planer2.jpeg

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Have you tried to power it up after putting it completely back together. The little black thing at the top is a micro switch and is enabled by the top shroud. Once assembled, there is a tab on the top shroud that depresses the switch. It will not operate without it completely assembled. 

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The mystery continues. You guys were on the nose on the microswitch. I took some electrical tape and taped it down and put a meter on the hot wire coming out of it and the neutral wire and it had power. So I reconnect the circuit breaker and main switch and i have no power. I jumped across the circuit breaker and tried it again and still no power. Im in St. Louis for the weekend...prolly time to go get a switch and circuit breaker. 

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The mystery continues. I was able to meter the power coming out of the microswitch, and took the circuit breaker out of the circuit...taking the hot/black wire from the microswitch and connecting it directly to the power switch. I tried turning the planer on and got nothing. I was hoping it was a bad switch. I took the power switch from my radial arm saw and replaced the planer switch with it...it didn’t work either. I am reluctant to order a new switch, but, agree it’s a minor expense (thanks Amazon). I’m open to suggestion...or if anyone sees errors in my approach please advise. Thank you!!!

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I am far from being an electrician but I feel safe in turning on a flashlight so maybe a more experienced can chime in. :D

If it were me, I would use the continuity (ohms) part of your tester and go thru each switch/device, from power cord to motor and see where the problem is. That way you aren’t dealing with live power. Make sure, as in the micro switch controlled by the top shroud, that each is in it’s normally assembled position. And yeah, bypass the circuit breaker. I’m still betting that is where your problem lies. But no sense buying it if it’s not. 

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I was really hoping to get some power to the motor to make sure it still works. Even though I've taken good care of the planer, it's still a planer...and i've had it for over ten years. And really like it. I'm not a motor guy. But i checked the brushes and they looked good to me (all relative). I was hoping to inspect the inside of the motor but wasn't able to remove the pulley on the end of the shaft and hated to force it. 

 

 

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I dont think the power is getting past the switch. I know I have power coming into switch. I assume I'm not since it's not powering on...but I could just as easy meter it coming out of the switch and see. Thank you Coop. You can tell my electrician skills are off the chart. :)

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The switch goes directly to the motor...and i'm afraid that could be the problem. I have power coming from the switch. And that's after I reconnected the circuit breaker. i know there's an easier way, but I reconnected switch and CB and metered the hot and neutral lines coming from the switch. I had 120v coming out of the  switch. It sure looked like it was a direct shot to the motor. At least I don't have to order the switch and CB...hopefully.

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