Hammer5573 Posted October 8, 2021 Report Share Posted October 8, 2021 I'm in the process of building a four-drawer chest made of maple. My plans for finishing are as follows: 1. Sand surface to #320 grit 2. Spritz the surface using distilled water in order to raise the grain 3. Re-sand the surface to #320 grit 4. Seal the wood using de-waxed shellac 5. Sand surface with #400 grit paper 6. Spray it with stain (probably water based) 7. French polish the piece Does this sound like a sound plan..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 Define 'stain'. Sealed surfaces will be far less likely to absorb the color, and water-based stains often dissolve in alcohol as well, so may lift during the french polish process. Also, sanding that high helps the wood repel stain, so I hope you are aiming for a pretty light color! Aside from these things that I have experienced myself with the color, your plan should produce a very silky-smooth surface, that looks and feels fantastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coop Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 I know less than I should about finishing but as shellac is not water base, I don’t think you need to worry about raising the grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 Since you didn’t specify the type of stain, I would certainly do a test beforehand to ensure the French polishing process will not affect the stain layer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer5573 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 Define 'stain'. Sealed surfaces will be far less likely to absorb the color, and water-based stains often dissolve in alcohol as well, so may lift during the French polish process. I once read (can't find it now) that dewaxed shellac could be stained and that it would prevent any blotching..? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wtnhighlander Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 Using diluted shellac is indeed a well-known method for minimizing blotch. That is because it reduces the absorption of the stain, especially in areas where the wood fiber ends exit / enter the face of the board. So, you must apply more coats to get the same coverage as a single coat over raw wood, but the color should be more even. When I have used shellac this way, I dilute it to about a 1/2 lb. cut. The simplest way (IMO) is to purchase Zinsser Seal Coat and mix it with alcohol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 Do some test pieces, first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer5573 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 I dilute itto about a 1/2 lb. cut. The simplest way (IMO) is topurchase Zinsser Seal Coat and mix it with alcohol. I know how to make a half-pound cut using shellac crystals but how do I do it using the Zinsser (liquid form)..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 You didn't mention if the sandpaper you are using is graded on the CAMI or FEPA (P grit) scales, and above 220 grit it starts to make a difference. https://www.fingerlakeswoodturners.com/downloads/Sand Paper Grit Comparison.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnG Posted October 9, 2021 Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 On 10/9/2021 at 11:38 AM, Hammer5573 said: I dilute itto about a 1/2 lb. cut. The simplest way (IMO) is topurchase Zinsser Seal Coat and mix it with alcohol. I know how to make a half-pound cut using shellac crystals but how do I do it using the Zinsser (liquid form)..? Zinsser SealCoat is a 2lb cut out of the can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hammer5573 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 You didn't mention if the sandpaper you are using is graded on the CAMI or FEPA (P grit) scales, and above 220 grit it starts to make a difference. I didn’t realize that these scales exist. What is your recommendation..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark J Posted October 10, 2021 Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 Since most woodworkers don't venture above 220 the distinction gets forgotten. For my turned pieces I am frequently sanding up to P1200 so it's something I pay attention to. It's not that one scale is better than the other, but you don't want to be jumping back and forth in the high grits. What I have found is that "P" grits are the more commonly available (even though they are "european"), so I try to stick with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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