roreme Posted October 25 Report Share Posted October 25 Hello Recently; I have been facing burn marks when ripping hardwood boards on my table saw. I have checked the blade and it’s sharp; but the issue exist ; especially on longer cuts. I am thinking the blade might be out of alignment; but I’m not sure if that’s the only cause. I have referred https://www.woodtalkonline.com/forum/10-power-tools/ for help. Has anyone dealt with similar problems? What’s the best way to check & adjust the blade alignment; and could other factors like feed speed / fence setup contribute to this? Thank you ! roreme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ron Swanson Jr. Posted October 25 Popular Post Report Share Posted October 25 There are several possible contributors to burning. Pitch on the blade can do it. Give the blade a good cleaning. Also, what kind of blade are you using? It should be a dedicated rip, or a combination blade. Not a crosscut blade. And, make sure the blade itself isn't warped, and is installed correctly, teeth facing forward. The fence should be parallel to the blade and the miter slots. Here's s suggestion. With the saw unplugged, take a marker and mark a tooth at the front of the blade, and another tooth at the rear of the blade. Pull the fence over to within 6" or so and measure from each those 2 marked teeth to the fence. The distance should be equal. Repeat this by measuring f the front of the miter slot to the face of the fence, and the rear of the miter slot to the face of the fence. Those should be equal, or very slightly wider f the miter slot at the rear of the fence than at the front. Very slightly (1/128"or so). Also, the saw can be tuned correctly, but if the workpiece has twist, or warp or other issues, that can do it as well. So make sure you're milling your stock properly before ripping. Give the saw a good tune up. Good luck! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Von Posted October 25 Report Share Posted October 25 +1 to everything Ron said. If you still have your manual, it should cover adjusting the alignment. If not, you can probably find a copy online via a search. Also, you mention this being a problem with longer cuts - if you pause in feeding the board, say to adjust your push blocks, the wood is more likely to burn then since the it sits in contact for the blade which is probably hot. And some woods are more prone to burning, e.g. cherry. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkinneb Posted October 25 Report Share Posted October 25 Agree with the above and also what blade are you using, what wood and thickness, and what saw hp? these could all be factors to consider as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gee-dub Posted October 26 Report Share Posted October 26 Yep, all good stuff so far. The faces against the table and fence should be milled flat and true. A 20 to 24 tooth blade for ripping; some folks use a 30 tooth 'glue line rip' for thinner stock with success. A feather board and outfeed support can help control longer stock. My shop made alignment jig is shown in a couple of posts in this thread 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom King Posted October 26 Report Share Posted October 26 Which saw? Contractor saws and cabinet saws have different methods of adjusting the assembly holding the arbor. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillyJack Posted October 27 Report Share Posted October 27 Have you looked at the fence. Is it toed in? Is it toed out? Kinda like Goldilocks and three bears. One is too far in, one is too far out and one is just right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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