Beechwood Chip Posted January 2 Report Posted January 2 I'm trying to make a circular tray with a raised lip using a bowl router bit and a template to hollow out the recess. My first thought was to use my router table, since the large surface of the table will support the large surface of the work-piece and there won't be any danger of the router tipping. But, I can't find any videos or articles that describe doing it this way; they all use a handheld router with a large base plate. I'm a little nervous about lowering the work-piece onto the spinning router bit, or accidentally doing a climb cut since I won't be able to see the router bit or where wood remains. Is there a reason no one seems to use router table with a template and pattern bit for hogging out a non-through interior recess? 1 Quote
Popular Post fcschoenthal Posted January 2 Popular Post Report Posted January 2 On 1/1/2025 at 9:28 PM, Beechwood Chip said: I'm a little nervous about lowering the work-piece onto the spinning router bit, or accidentally doing a climb cut since I won't be able to see the router bit or where wood remains. Is there a reason no one seems to use router table with a template and pattern bit for hogging out a non-through interior recess? Main reason is the one you identified. Safest way would be to use a large clear base plate. 4 Quote
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted January 2 Popular Post Report Posted January 2 @Beechwood Chip, I made a round tray like that a while back. Rather than a bowl & tray bit (didn't have one at the time), I used a straight bit for most of the stock removal, followed by a round-nose bit to radius the inside corner. No template, I used blocks clamped to the fence to provide 2 contact points, guided by the outside rim. Start at the center and move the fence toward the bit after each pass, taking small bites. If I did it again, I would hog out most of the waste with a forstner in my drill press, the clean it up at the router table. For me, clearing chips was the biggest issue. FWIW, I also made a round tray on my tablesaw once, using a contraption I called the 'Spin-a-ma-jig'. I don't think I journaled that, but the jig is used in this thread: 4 Quote
Popular Post Beechwood Chip Posted January 2 Author Popular Post Report Posted January 2 On 1/2/2025 at 6:55 AM, wtnhighlander said: Rather than a bowl & tray bit (didn't have one at the time), I used a straight bit for most of the stock removal, followed by a round-nose bit to radius the inside corner I thought of that, but I didn't have a round-nose bit either. On 1/2/2025 at 6:55 AM, wtnhighlander said: If I did it again, I would hog out most of the waste with a forstner in my drill press, the clean it up at the router table. For me, clearing chips was the biggest issue. I also thought of that, but I only want a 1/4" lip and my forstner bits have a little spur in the center. Still, it's probably worth it to clear out the to 1/8". I tried it on the router table (before I posted here) using a short straight bit as a first pass. The groove filled up with chips, the bit overheated, it slipped in the collet, and eventually charred the wood and chewed up the template. I was using a router table insert that was too small so there was nowhere for the chips and heat to go, and with my dust collection sucking from under the table, there was no way for cool air to get in. Another reason not to do it on a table. 4 Quote
Von Posted January 2 Report Posted January 2 On 1/2/2025 at 8:34 AM, Beechwood Chip said: I tried it on the router table (before I posted here) using a short straight bit as a first pass. The groove filled up with chips, the bit overheated, it slipped in the collet, and eventually charred the wood and chewed up the template. I was using a router table insert that was too small so there was nowhere for the chips and heat to go, and with my dust collection sucking from under the table, there was no way for cool air to get in. Another reason not to do it on a table. I've often found that chip extraction when using a router is a problem as you describe. Especially if I'm using a bushing or anything else that restricts my dust collection. I've come to the conclusion that routing a mortise or anything else where the chips are trapped needs a lot of vacuum breaks and is slow going, hence pre-hogging is useful. Maybe get a spare forstner bit and file the spur off to leave a cleaner bottom? Precision isn't that important for hogging so you won't miss the spur. I pretty sure I've seen this done in some YT video. 2 Quote
Beechwood Chip Posted January 2 Author Report Posted January 2 On 1/2/2025 at 9:35 AM, Von said: Maybe get a spare forstner bit and file the spur off to leave a cleaner bottom? Precision isn't that important for hogging so you won't miss the spur. That's an idea! I have a couple cheap forstner bit sets (my father kept forgetting that he had already given me a set). If I haven't gotten rid of them, then they would be perfect for hogging out material. Thanks! 2 Quote
Popular Post wtnhighlander Posted January 2 Popular Post Report Posted January 2 Even if you don't hog out all the waste, making a starter hole for the router bit will help. 3 Quote
Popular Post Coop Posted January 3 Popular Post Report Posted January 3 I’ve used a dado stack on the ts to make a rectangular tray, similar to the one you describe. Plunging down onto the blades using start stop blocks on the fence. There was definately a major pucker factor until I got used to it. Not sure it couldn’t be done on a circular piece but I wouldn’t want to be the first to try it. 3 Quote
Mark J Posted January 3 Report Posted January 3 Have you considered using a plunge router with some type of template? 1 Quote
Popular Post Beechwood Chip Posted January 3 Author Popular Post Report Posted January 3 On 1/3/2025 at 9:35 AM, Mark J said: Have you considered using a plunge router with some type of template? Yes, that's what I'm going to do, but I'll use a forstner bit first to hog out as much material as possible. In my experience, routers are good it removing a little material precisely, but less good at removing a lot of material quickly. 4 Quote
Popular Post pkinneb Posted January 4 Popular Post Report Posted January 4 On 1/3/2025 at 9:16 AM, Beechwood Chip said: Yes, that's what I'm going to do, but I'll use a forstner bit first to hog out as much material as possible. In my experience, routers are good it removing a little material precisely, but less good at removing a lot of material quickly. FWIW this is how i do it as well. 3 Quote
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