Wareagle Todd Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Looking to get another marking gauge and was looking at the daul gauage. Link Anybody have experience with it or another recomendation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 It's quite a bit more expensive, but the Tite-Mark is a nicer tool to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaichel Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 It's quite a bit more expensive, but the Tite-Mark is a nicer tool to use. Totally agree. I have the LV marking gauge and the Tite-Mark and they are in two different leagues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bois Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 If you have the latest LV catalog, the inside cover has an interesting little story about the advent of their dual marking gauge. Basically they resisting building this sort of thing for quite some time since it would cost more to sell than two of the single-wheel gauges. But they eventually got enough demand they felt it was worth building. I do not have this gauge, but I do have the LV single-wheel gauge. I use it almost exclusively for marking dovetail and tenon shoulders. For marking mortises, I use an old fashioned scratch stock with two marks. Mortise "shoulders" are rarely exposed, so I find this an inexpensive but effective solution. I don't see much need for the LV version of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onboard Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Dual Shmool, this is what you want to get. P.S. Don’t forget to click “click here for page two…” at the bottom of the page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombuhl Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 It's quite a bit more expensive, but the Tite-Mark is a nicer tool to use. Hey Darnell (and James), can you expand on what aspects you prefer on the Tite-Mark over the Veritas marking gauge? I have the LV device and looked at pix of the Tite-Mark and could make some judgements based on the appearance, but would appreciate any specifics you could provide. Thanks much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeGauss Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 I have both the LV and the Tite-Mark and I would also agree the the Tite-Mark is the nicer tool. It adjusts easier, holds better and I like the micro adjust better. The LV is not a bad tool at all and I used it for years but the Tite-mark is better. -Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onboard Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Knowing that cost shouldn't be the major consideration, it is still a consideration most of us have to factor into our buying decisions. Veritas Dual Marking Gauge - $59 with mortise and tenon marking included. Tite-Mark - $89 + $15 for “Adjustable mortise blade”. Total $104. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southwood Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Look around for a 98 Stanley marking gauge. Can be picked up for about half the price and works just as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Hey Darnell (and James), can you expand on what aspects you prefer on the Tite-Mark over the Veritas marking gauge? The Tite-Mark is adjustable and lockable with one hand, which is surprisingly useful. Also, because of its knobs, it won't roll. It's the better designed tool, whether or not it's $30 better is up to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
konkers Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 I just got one of these and was a bit disappointed that the cutter wheels do not roll. This makes cutting the lines a lot less smooth than their standard marking gauge. I wish this had been said in the item description. On the positive side, the sliding action of the rods was so smooth that I don't miss the microadjust yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 I just got my Veritas the other day and so far I really like it. The only thing I wish was different was that it would be oval so it wouldn't roll, I have always just stuck my other one in a dog hole instead of setting it down so no big difference just something I thought would be nice. I really like the micro-adjust, may not be one handed like the tite-mark but it sure nicer than my other one that doesn't have it. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newageneanderthal Posted July 4, 2011 Report Share Posted July 4, 2011 I'm seeing lots of love for the micro-adjust, makes me think I'm missing something. As a marking gauge, for me at least, is used to directly transfer measurements I always thought the micro-adjust to be a gimmick. What are you guys using it for? As is I slide it up till it touches and lock it down, in which case do you micro adjust from there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 The micro adjust is a useful feature, it's graduations on the beam that some think are a gimmick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newageneanderthal Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 The micro adjust is a useful feature, it's graduations on the beam that some think are a gimmick. You say its a useful feature, but useful for what? Not meant to sound sarcastic, truly inquiring. I set it by touch from whatever item is the transferring reference and then lock it down. So after that why would I need to micro adjust? Are you setting it to a boards width +.010" or something? I just am having a hard time picturing what you do with the micro adjustment since it not need for direct transfer setting, which is all I seem to do with my marking gauges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombuhl Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 You say its a useful feature, but useful for what? Not meant to sound sarcastic, truly inquiring. I set it by touch from whatever item is the transferring reference and then lock it down. So after that why would I need to micro adjust? Are you setting it to a boards width +.010" or something? I just am having a hard time picturing what you do with the micro adjustment since it not need for direct transfer setting, which is all I seem to do with my marking gauges. I have a Veritas marking gauge. Don't use the variable feature much at all. But there have been times where I want a knife line in exact (by our standards) center of a board of indeterminate thickness, or width. Set it close, by eye or ruler. Scribe from both sides. If lines don't line up, a microadjust is preferred, rather than pushing which essentially starts over, but with some reference. Suspect others have found other uses that you might appreciate. Guess it depends on when and where you use your marking gauge. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newageneanderthal Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 I have a Veritas marking gauge. Don't use the variable feature much at all. But there have been times where I want a knife line in exact (by our standards) center of a board of indeterminate thickness, or width. Set it close, by eye or ruler. Scribe from both sides. If lines don't line up, a microadjust is preferred, rather than pushing which essentially starts over, but with some reference. Suspect others have found other uses that you might appreciate. Guess it depends on when and where you use your marking gauge. Cheers That's why I asked, I never thought of that. I would have set the center with dividers, left a small pin punch, set the blade at that mark and pushed the gauge fence up tight and locked down. Same result but you saved a step. If anyone else has useful things like that for the micro-adjust I would love to hear. Maybe when the thread is done I will be considering it on my next marking gauge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tombuhl Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 That's why I asked, I never thought of that. I would have set the center with dividers, left a small pin punch, set the blade at that mark and pushed the gauge fence up tight and locked down. Same result but you saved a step. If anyone else has useful things like that for the micro-adjust I would love to hear. Maybe when the thread is done I will be considering it on my next marking gauge. as with most of our procedures, there are many ways to get there. Nice to have the forums to see how others solve or approach a problem or situation. Even if our method works well, it helps to have our arsenal as deep as we can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darnell Hagen Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 I like to set the head quick with the coarse adjust, then dial in the fit with the fine. I also find it nice to have when laying out dt's, I use the coarse to set it to the thickness of the stock, then use the micro to increase it a little more to allow for extra to be planed off flush after assembly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Slack Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 You got me ... lol Dual Shmool, this is what you want to get. P.S. Don’t forget to click “click here for page two…” at the bottom of the page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted July 13, 2011 Report Share Posted July 13, 2011 You say its a useful feature, but useful for what? Not meant to sound sarcastic, truly inquiring. I set it by touch from whatever item is the transferring reference and then lock it down. So after that why would I need to micro adjust? Are you setting it to a boards width +.010" or something? I just am having a hard time picturing what you do with the micro adjustment since it not need for direct transfer setting, which is all I seem to do with my marking gauges. I love the micro adjust, the main reason is marking layouts and jointery like mortise and tenon, is just a lot nicer rotating to get the exact measurment you want instead of locking it snug and tapping it on the bench to adjust one way or the other like I used to do. I do also like it for scoring ply, this is not something that would normally help much because of the small reach but the other day I used it for just that. I went without the micro adjust for many years and got along just fine but since I had to replace my other one because I couldn't find a replacement cutter after it met Mr. Cement Floor I couldn't be happier(should have dropped my other one a long time ago ) You are exactly right though as it doesn't really help one bit for dovetails which is the one of the main uses for it in my shop. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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