jtooley75 Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 Can anyone please recommend a set of decent chisels that won't break the bank. I am a hobbyist and need a set that would hopefully last me a good while. Thanks for any info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeGauss Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 I got a set of the Narex chisels from Highland woodworking many years ago and they have severed me well. They take a little setting up but they work well after that and they are only $50 for the set. There is also now a premium Narex set but I have not used them. If I was going to upgrade mine I would go to either the Stanley Sweethearts or the Lie-Nielsen bench chisels. -Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aengland Posted July 16, 2011 Report Share Posted July 16, 2011 I got a set of the Narex chisels from Highland woodworking many years ago and they have severed me well. They take a little setting up but they work well after that and they are only $50 for the set. There is also now a premium Narex set but I have not used them. If I was going to upgrade mine I would go to either the Stanley Sweethearts or the Lie-Nielsen bench chisels. -Gary Most chisels, when tuned and sharpened (really sharp), work. Simple. But lay several chisels side by side and note side thickness. I did this with a blue Irwin, a lowe's stanley, and a Lie Nielson. The LN sidewall was so small; the blue Irwin was quite thick at the edge (5/32), with the box store Stanley about halfway between (7/64). The balance on the Stanley is aweful: it's too top heavy, but the shorter blade is very functional. The Irwin is long on blade and handle. Not a bad feature for a parring chisel--but it's not. Again, the chisel is harder to control. The LN is light with a shorter handle that cradles in your palm, and the blades are balanced so that it genuinely and easily functions as an extension of my hand. The Japanese chisel beside it is very similar in balance, just the hooped handle is much taller and forces a different hand control. It's almost as light. All four cut, and cut well. I can't really see difference between the Japanese steel cut, the LN A2, or the Irwin and Stanley. Everyone of them left a smooth, crisp, wispy grain on the end grain of some fir (softwood). But for dovetails, only one is perfect--the LN. Yep, I finally bought a LN chisel; and, I'm amazed. If your chisel does what you want, good for you. Now that I've found what works for me, I can divest myself of some of this other stuff. But, hey, I'll always keep a beater set, too. Archie near NOLA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted July 17, 2011 Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 I have three sets of chisels, my first ones are Stanleys that I bought new about 12 or 14 yrs ago so they obviously aren't the new Sweethearts you are hearing about lately. They work alright but for pairing and such they just don't hold an edge well enough to keep me content. Second is my Narex chisels, these are the same ones Gary mentioned. These are pretty cheep for chisels and they are worth every penny plus several bucks! I do really like these as they are very comfortable in my hand, well balanced, and most of all they hold an edge pretty good. They are discontinuing the ones I have so you will have to act quick on there as some are already sold out Last are my Stanley 750's that used to be my wifes Grandpa's. These are the ones you see on Ebay a lot and they don't go for pennies and you have to also consider you don't really know how much elbow grease you are going to have to put into them. I really like all but one of mine, for some reason my 1/4" just won't hold an edge for very long. My wifes Grandpa never sharpened them with a grinder and neither do I so I am a little confused on this. I may just try hardening it and seeing if that helps. The only reason I mention this is because if you are going to buy used you may run across this too (don't let it deter you though). If you are willing to put in some considerable time you can have a great set of chisels you just have to figure out which road is right for you. I use my newer Stanleys for rough work where keeping an edge isn't a priority, my Narex are my go to chisels, and my 750's are my finessing chisels that get babied a lot because of the sentimental factor. The reason I say this is because if I had it to do over again I would do it about the same. I learned and experimented on my first Stanleys and would have been a bit more leary on a really nice set, that would be a shame as that is where you learn so much. If you are a member FineWoodworking has a great article here where they put 23 different chisles to the test and the results were pretty clear (it was this article that helped me decide on buying my Narex). Please keep us posted on what you decide and how you like them. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtooley75 Posted July 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2011 Thanks for all the info guys. I do appreciate it. I think that this has helped me make a decision. I do appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenaissanceWW Posted July 18, 2011 Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 The first thing I would say is don't buy a set. It is rare that you will use every size in the set so you are wasting money. Buy the best chisel you can afford and my buying only 3 or 4 you can save money. Frankly, the 1/4, 1/2, and 1.5" chisels do almost all of my work. As I have needed more "specialty" sizes I have bought them and now I have a lot of chisels, but I have gotten them over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtooley75 Posted July 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2011 Actually, that was going to be my next question anyways. I didn't know what the most common sizes one would use. Since I am a hobbyist, I could probably just start with a couple and build from there if needed. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southwood Posted July 20, 2011 Report Share Posted July 20, 2011 Lee Valley has a intro sale going on. Might be worth a look if a person needs a set. http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=67707&cat=1,41504 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nlwoodworker Posted July 21, 2011 Report Share Posted July 21, 2011 Lee Valley just announced a special introductory offer on their new Narex® Classic Bevel-Edge Chisel Sets. Introductory special until August 8, 2011. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=67707&cat=1,41504 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricFortin Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Hi, wanted to chime on this topic because I'm on the same boat right now and received the newsletter from Lee Valley about the introductory price on newest Narex chisels. Following the recommendation of Shannon and many other woodworkers, I shouldn't buy a set. At the same time, almost every one of them have a set. I wonder why Let's say I (will) need 1/4", 1/2" and 1 1/2" like recommended by Shannon. I could get the Narex 10 piece sets for 89$ whereas I could get the previous sizes for about the 97$ if I bought Ashley Iles or get like 2 Lie Neilsen(1/4 and 1/2) for 110$. Is having a lower quality set for starting out waiting later to get premium ones a good idea since a lot of wood worker seems to get more than 1 set or a beater one ? The reason I'm asking is having to fork like 100$ worth of tools for the first 20 projects or so will be hard to swallow for the wife lol Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 I have the original Narex chisels and like them; the new set at Lee Valley is their premium line. I'd be surprised if I wouldn't be happy with those. Great price for the set. If you get the set and find that you don't use a certain size, do like my friend did: take it to a grinder and turn it into a useful skew chisel. Can't beat that price. When you get high-dollar chisels later, you'll still use your Narex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaichel Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 Eric brought up a good point, almost every woodworker who has a good set of chisels also has a beater set. I don't think you need the 10 piece Narex set it seems like more chisels than one should have when first starting out. My first set was a set of Marples, did the job but when I tried an LN chisel I realized what I had been missing. It's something that is hard to explain and you just have to experience it for yourself. I propose a compromise get the set of 4 or 7 Narex chisels and one LN chisel. It will cost you the same amount of money and you will be able to compare them side by side. The only problem is if you don't live near a store that sells LN's then you have to pay for shipping twice, which sucks. Alas I have another alternative for you. The Craftsman Studio sells American made Buck Brothers chisels with wood handles, not even close to the same chisel that is sold at HD. He also sells LN chisels and best of all he is offering free shipping on any order over $75 right now. I also have a couple of these BB chisels in larger sizes and they are good chisels for the money, better then my Marples but not as good as my LN's but probably comparable to the Narex chisels. Something to think about. Good Luck! James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilburpan Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 I propose a compromise get the set of 4 or 7 Narex chisels and one LN chisel. It will cost you the same amount of money and you will be able to compare them side by side. The only problem is if you don't live near a store that sells LN's then you have to pay for shipping twice, which sucks. I think this is a great solution. I've learned to get over the paying for shipping issue in cases like this, however. Think of it this way: if you had two stores nearby, went to one to buy some Narex chisels, went to the other to buy a LN chisel, went home so you could compare the two side by side at your leisure and in your own shop, then went back on another day to return one or the other chisel after you had made your decision, neither store would reimburse you for gas money, tolls, or wear and tear on your car. So why should shipping costs be treated any differently? The nearest Woodcraft to me is 48 miles away, which means that I'm going to burn 3.8 gallons of gas going back and forth assuming I get 25 mpg. At today's gas prices, $9.95 for shipping looks pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 I agree with the 4pc or 7pc Narex, I personally really like having a 3/8 chisel so I would opt for the later of the two. I personally would then hold off and see what you need and go from there. I have the larger 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 but to be honest I rarely use them (can't even remember the last time I sharpened them). Squaring up grooves or dado's after the router or hogging out a large area is the only time I go for them. If you find that you would like to have a larger size but like me would hardly use it maybe buying a Stanley from the big box store would be your best bet, if you find that you would use it a lot then go for the Lie Nielsen or such. You can always upgrade later and I personally thing it is much better to do this, learn on some chisels that you won't be so nervous sharpening. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaichel Posted July 22, 2011 Report Share Posted July 22, 2011 I've learned to get over the paying for shipping issue in cases like this, however. Think of it this way: if you had two stores nearby, went to one to buy some Narex chisels, went to the other to buy a LN chisel, went home so you could compare the two side by side at your leisure and in your own shop, then went back on another day to return one or the other chisel after you had made your decision, neither store would reimburse you for gas money, tolls, or wear and tear on your car. So why should shipping costs be treated any differently? The nearest Woodcraft to me is 48 miles away, which means that I'm going to burn 3.8 gallons of gas going back and forth assuming I get 25 mpg. At today's gas prices, $9.95 for shipping looks pretty good. A point very well made Wilbur, as I am in a similar situation. I don't have a store within 50 miles where I can buy premium tools from, so everything I buy is online. I just wait for shipping deals or until I have a large enough order to justify shipping costs. Another thing I did not consider was the fact that you also have to pay sales tax for buying locally. At the the end of the day it becomes a wash. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 I have a buddy who also enjoys woodworking and when one of us needs to order something we pull the others arm to also purchase so we can split the shipping costs, half price shipping is always nice. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aengland Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 I have a buddy who also enjoys woodworking and when one of us needs to order something we pull the others arm to also purchase so we can split the shipping costs, half price shipping is always nice. Nate Buying new chisels is sorta like buying vintage ones--they all look basically alike and work basically the same. Unitl you discover that one or two that just hold a sharp edge longer, for some unexplained reason feel more comfortable in your hand, and really do seem to be a "cut above" the rest. Buy more of those.!. When it works for you, do it. I bought a set of Irwins five years ago and have used only a few of the set. Along the way, I starting picking you flea market and fleabay deals, e.g. Paid $2 for a vintage Stanley 750 1/2 chisel. It takes and holds a fantastically sharp edge. However, I had to turn a new handle, remove its rust, round back out the socket, and reshape a badly damaged blade edge (but it was nearly full length). While working on it, I pulled an unused Irwin out and started flattening the back--it's got a serious dip in one corner (never used). Went through two others with similar out of flat issues. Ugh. The better made, more expensive tools have better quality control. I might spend several hours flattening all these blades only to discover that they don't have good edge retention. Maybe they'll be okay. In the end, you really get what you pay for--so buy right to buy once! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtooley75 Posted July 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 This has been great info. Now I have a new question to follow up chisel talk. What method of sharpening would some of you recommend for starters or someone like me who doesn't do woodworking full time. Would you go with sandpaper or stones, say Norton for example? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aengland Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 This has been great info. Now I have a new question to follow up chisel talk. What method of sharpening would some of you recommend for starters or someone like me who doesn't do woodworking full time. Would you go with sandpaper or stones, say Norton for example? I've just given my set of Nortons to a friend, who like you, is just getting started and has nothing. So, there you have it: Nortons are a good starter set. However, I wanted better water stones, especially better than the 220 (junk) and the 1000 (just slow). The 4000 and 8000 stones are great (but actually are closer to 2500 and 5000). So I've upgraded to Sigma Power ceramic stones. I'll know soon enough how much better they are; but, I can only guess now. I have some oil stones, as well. They work, too, but are just slower when faster is need (think, more metal removal needed). In terms of sharpness and polish, my Arkansas stones ROCK (okay, it's a pun). But, the Ark. stones are not capable of providing more than about 4000 grit. Now, that's plenty sharp; but, there's further sharpening that can be done--and that's where water stones significantly out-shine the oil stones. I tried and tired of the scary sharp method. Not all sandpaper is equal; not all float glass is flat and non-flexing; not all wetted sand paper stays flat; and not all glue/adhesives readily come off when cleaning and regluing. Sometimes, it worked really well; at others, not so much. Rounding over (due to technique or paper movement) led me to the natural and water stones. So where do you stop--that's easy: when the money runs out! No, really, 8000 grit is plenty for chisels and plane blades (actually 4000-6000 works, as well) on the bevel and back sides. Beyond that is "extra" that's okay but not necessary. With water stones, you can sometimes get 8000 to 12000 stones for about the same price, and when skipping from a 5000 stone, all those should work equally as well. So you choose the upper limit by how far you can skip and how much you're willing to pay. In the end, whatever works for you is what you should do. And, that's also the functional point of sharpness for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmykx250 Posted July 23, 2011 Report Share Posted July 23, 2011 I bought a set of two cherries and have an old beater set and to be honest when properly sharpened one set is just better to look at that's it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nateswoodworks Posted July 27, 2011 Report Share Posted July 27, 2011 PRSdude, I personally use oil stones for a few reasons. 1. Because I always have used oil stones, I am used to them, and I get great results from them. 2. I already have all my stones purchased and would rather spend my money on other stuff. 3. Every time I watch a video and see someone flatten a water stone over and over again I just see money being wasted. 4. Because every where I read and everyone I talk to tells me I really need to switch to water stones. That being said I would probably suggest going with water stones. The reason I say this is because since you are just starting you want to be spending your time building not sharpening. You could go with the scary sharp system (sandpaper) but by the time you buy a decent supply of quality sandpaper and float glass or granite stone you could spend a little more and just buy a 1k/8k water stone, doesn't have to be a top of the line stone as you may decide you don't want to stay with this system. You could go with oil stones, they are great but it is quite a bit slower, if you are freehand sharpening this can be good and bad. Obviously you want to get it sharp and get back to building and oil stones delay this, bad. But with oil stones you can monitor your progress easier. A few passes holding your chisel/iron at an incorrect angle will not alter anything much but with a water stone it can make a big difference. The other thing is since it takes longer to sharpen you get more hand on experience. So like I said it is a good/bad relationship. Right now there is so much for you to learn since you are just starting out and my opinion is just get your tools sharp quick now and learn how to use them and enjoy yourself, then later if you choose try other systems and experiment. Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon003 Posted August 4, 2011 Report Share Posted August 4, 2011 The first thing I would say is don't buy a set. It is rare that you will use every size in the set so you are wasting money. Buy the best chisel you can afford and my buying only 3 or 4 you can save money. Frankly, the 1/4, 1/2, and 1.5" chisels do almost all of my work. As I have needed more "specialty" sizes I have bought them and now I have a lot of chisels, but I have gotten them over the years. Oh, sure, NOW you tell me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jHop Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 So I don't have a really great set of chisels. I have the $5 set from Harbor Freight (1/2', 3/4", and 1") and a 1/4" from Irwin (blue big box). While I appreciate all that the HF chisels have done for me (I learned how to sharpen a chisel the wrong way, and then the right way), I'd state there is no doubt you get what you pay for. If all you want are just a couple chisels, don't bother with the set. sure, it's cheaper to get 7 than three individually. But really, how often are you going to need all those sizes? I find I never use the 3/4" chisel, having used it exactly twice. Don't forget that you have a variety of chisel types to factor in. I'm really wishing I had a 1/4" mortising chisel right now, but I can wait for a bit. As for sharpening, I'd recommend making up your mind which direction you'd like to go with all your tools: oil, water, or sandpaper. Find a route, and stick with it. Nobody expect you to stay with it forever, but you do need to get your money's worth out of whichever one you choose. While sandpaper is a cheap initial startup, the cost of replacing the sheets over time adds up. Even if you get the Worksharp system, you still have to replace the sandpaper discs. Oil stones and water stones are more money up front, but last faaaaaaar longer (really really longer) than the sandpaper. The good news is that the sharpening jigs / fixtures are pretty much universal. Unless you're sharpening without fixtures, then they're unnecessary. (I tried free hand sharpening, and decided I needed the training wheels.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoFF Posted August 7, 2011 Report Share Posted August 7, 2011 Frankly, the 1/4, 1/2, and 1.5" chisels do almost all of my work. What bevel edge chisel would you recommend? What do you use? I notice LN doesn't sell a 1.5" bevel chisel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilburpan Posted August 8, 2011 Report Share Posted August 8, 2011 I got a set of the Narex chisels from Highland woodworking many years ago and they have severed me well. Those chisels must be REALLY sharp, then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.