Do you have to sticker stack dry lumber?


Nick2cd

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I think the only time I ever sticker and stack a load of lumber is when I'm really bored or feel all uppity LOL. Actually what I prefer to do, when I get a chance, is to mill the stock and then stack and sticker before I cut the joinery and assemble my projects.

It doesn't happen all the time, but occasionally there's a big lag between when I mill and when I can move on to the next step(s). To keep from having all that hard work being undone, this seems like a good extra step.

So far...so good!

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this all makes sense. the wood is not milled for any upcoming projects. it's still rough on all 4 surfaces. Matt, i like the idea to stack and sticker if there's a lag between milling and joinery. im going to sleep better tonight knowing that my lumber isn't going to turn into a pretzel by morning.

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Nick -

Something you might want to try if you dimension the lumber, but aren't going to use it for a while, is to stack it and clamp it all down in a big pile. I haven't tried it, but I saw this done is some of Christopher Schwarz's Germany classes. You can see the photos here.

Jonathan

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I don't bother. I just pile them up on my wood rack on the shop. There's enough air around them anyway. Stickers would just reduce the usable space on my lumber rack which is already overflowing. Plus, like Darnell said, they just get in the way. I don't mill/cut the full boards until I'm ready to use them for the project so I accommodate any changes if there are any in the milling process.

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If I know I'll be able to work on a project within a given time frame, I tend NOT to stack and sticker the wood after milling it.

BUT because it's quite frequent I'll end up going a week or more between working on a given project, this method works for me. Ideally I'd love to be able to mill, cut, shape and assemble all my components on one day or even over a single weekend, but my reality isn't it just doesn't happen very often.

If I just took a 4/4 board down to 3/4" or 7/8" I've removed a fair amount of material and exposed surfaces that were close but not equal to the MC % on top. Especially in the winter, I'll tend to worry about twist or cup during those time spans.

It's typically over kill for most shops, but for my peace of mind it works for me lol!!!

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I always sticker my stock after I buy it to get it acclimated to my shop. I rarely go back and unsticker it, so most of my stock stays in stickers. I also sticker the stock after I resaw it for the same reason. I actually think that there may be a downside to clamping your stock after dimensioning. If it's kiln dried lumber, in many cases any subsequent twisting or cupping is often the result of uneven kiln drying. In these cases, no amount of pressure or clamping will flatten those boards in the long term. So all you're really doing is delaying the inevitable. I'd rather let those stresses out of the stock after a week or so and then re-mill everything flat again. That way I know everything is at equilibrium once I start doing my joinery and assembly. With air dried stock, I could definitely see more of an argument for clamping the stock. Once the moisture levels even out, the wood will settle into it's flattened state rather than bouncing back since those wood fibers are still pliable. Might be an interesting experiment to try some time actually.

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Knowing the moisture content is important. Even if they say it is dry I check it. I had a bad experience with a Cherry floor. :-(

Even wood that I have had in my shop a while I will check when I resaw it. If the center is different then the original outside, then I know if might move. Though I had some reclaimed lumber I never worried about. I figured that any wood that is over 100 years old is pretty stable. And after several months since I used it I have not seen any movement. But new wood I always sticker.

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