linkmx674 Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 does a little bit of a cup matter in my crosscut sled? when i bought the ply i tried picking the best one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 A little bit of cup, depending on how bad it is could result in not square cuts. Ideally you are going to want it as flat as possible. Hopefully when you attach the front and back of the sled, it will help to flatten it out. You may have to play around a little. If you run the little bit of cup going front to back, then the front and back pieces might straighten it out a little better than if you ran the cup going side to side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 I'd say that you should make your crosscut sled as perfect as you possibly can, because it will affect everything you use it for forever after. IMO the best material for a crosscut sled is particle board with plastic laminate (Formica) on both surfaces. Particle board is flat and stable to begin with, but not so heavy as MDF. Then the plastic laminate will make it slick and easy to maintain, and will also help make it stay flat for the same reasons that a torsion box stays flat. In short, I wouldn't mess around with a curly piece of plywood if I were you. -- Russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 Russ, you said it better than me. I was tyring to come up with a way to work with what he had. But yes, you want it as perfect as possible. Flat is best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkmx674 Posted February 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 i said ply but yes it is the particle board. its 1/2''? i thought about actually getting the melamine surfaced particle board from menards but went without the slick surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewoodwhisperer Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 Sorry I'm late to the discussion. Totally agree with the advice above. You really do what that surface nice and flat as possible. Moving thread to jigs and fixtures forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 I gave up on them a long time ago. I just gang two miter gauges together. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodger. Posted February 24, 2012 Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 Cross cut sleds are fantastic, but they need to be flat and square. Better to rebuild the sled than to have a nice workpiece ruined, or a have an assembly not fit tightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkmx674 Posted February 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2012 when i put my front hand back pieces on it did weight it down more. when i put piece up against fence to cut and hold the workpiece down it seems to be fine? im gonna give it a try?? if not im only out 10 $. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screamer777 Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 Hi I wanted to start a new topic about crosscut sleds until I read this post. I hope it is O.K. to post it here. I've got another problem with my saw. It is a Ryobi contractor saw and I am quit happy with it. I just recently purchase it because the Emco Star table is way to small. It is now more a lathe than anything else. The problem I have is that the blade is to near to the front of the Ryobi saw table. I noticed that on professional table saw's, the blade is further to the middle or 3/4 to the end. I think that is because of the size of the table saw versus the contractor saw. How do I construct a crosscut sled on my contractor saw? I will get real issues from tipping the crosscut sled of balance towards me, if I make it the regular way. Any help appreciated. Thanks Johan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulMarcel Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 I'd make longer runners for your sled. For example, they could protrude 10" in front of the sled, but still continue on to the back of the sled. If you miter slots are T shaped, screw a few washers in there to hook the T and help prevent tipping. I did something similar on a previous saw with good results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Screamer777 Posted March 19, 2012 Report Share Posted March 19, 2012 Thanks Paul for the advice. The miter slots is T shaped, so I am gonna using that idea of yours. And the longer runners make sense. BTW...I love your web side and video's. Johan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 I gave up on them a long time ago. I just gang two miter gauges together. Don I know this is an old thread, but do you have any pics of this? I am interested.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 I know this is an old thread, but do you have any pics of this? I am interested.. No but I'll try to remember to take one for you. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwacker Posted March 20, 2012 Report Share Posted March 20, 2012 Here is one I found on my computer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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